Mister2

i have a 2000 CBR 600 f4...it quit running for me a few days ago...i worked on it a bit and found out my fuel pump was not delivering fuel...but if i jumper the harness the pump clicks and continues until the carbs are filled then it stops and bike runs fine until carbs go empty again...when i turn key on i get 12v at the pump for a brief sec. then no power...my question is what tells the pump to turn on and off? because this is what i think is wrong b/c i ran a jumper harness to the fuel pump constant 12v and the bike runs fine....any suggestions??? thanks for any info...much appreciated

Ihave one on my CBR 600 and i like it..sounds diff. than all the other yoshirmira and 2 bros' pipes that everyone else has...

hey guys... my 2000 CBR 600 F4 has been sitting for the last 2 weeks...and i go to ride it yesterday it starts up and runs normal so i take off down the road after letting it warm up a bit...then it starts to load up a bit so i gently gas it it bring it out of it and it clears up...i start slowing for an upcoming stop sign and the bike stalls and will not restart..all it does is crank....well i figure maybe its flooded (jetted carbs and its 90+ degrees out) so i let it sit for a couple hours and try to restart...it tries to fire for a second then nothing...just cranks....and same thing today also...i checked fuses all good...battery is new...can feel/hear fuel pump come on but i checked power to #1 coil and i am only getting 1.5v for like a second then no power at all...does anyone have any ideas??? sorry for the long story...

was the bike even warm when u revved the piss out of it?

i am sure its nothing to worry about, it was just water vapor and shit that has been collecting from storage,

is it carbed or injected? i am assuming injected, if so, its still probably running a bit rich due to sitting or being cold still, and plus if u were hitting the rev limiter, they usually just cut off spark not fuel, so it will still be dumping in fuel and it would not be burned, due to no spark, and thus cause smoke out the pipe. if it was coolant, u would smell a very sweet smell and the white smoke would just linger plus the bike would be overheating/milky colored oil

That's the wrong attitude. A dealership being retarded is no reason to swear off a brand. No timing chain and tune-up would ever cost 2 grand, and for you to agree to such a thing is stupidity on your part. I've been through 2 VWs in 21 years and they have always treated me well. However, I never use a dealership to service my vehicles either. The local mechanic has the same tools and does much better work.

GG on being a gullible sap who'll pay 2 grand for a timing chain

also - sorry for the thread dump. I hope you (OP) get due justice against that craptastic dealership!

if the said VW motor was a VR6, then yeah, it would easily cost $2k for timing chain, its on the back of the motor and trans needs to be pulled to access, but i have never seen one needing chains replaced with less than 180K miles, but i do agree, vw have treated me well, my daily is an old jetta turbo diesel, 50 mpg, has over 315,000 miles and runs like a champ, and i have owned 7 vw's and audi's that had at least 250k all the way up to 347k miles on the clock, all with original motors, trannys, and some even had original clutch- i know this cause i bought it from original owner

dont forget to re-sync them carbs too when your all done putting them back on the bike. on a carb'd bike, re syncing the carbs alone can make it feel 100% better. my opinion is that id do is, set the pilot screw to whatever your jet kit manufacture suggests along with evertyhing else then install the carbs on the bike, make sure it runs then re sync the carbs. after the carbs are sync then adjust the pilot screws again to fine tune the engine.

i have never done this before, and i see u are in bascom, i live in tiffin, a whole 3 miles down the road, wanna give a brother a hand? lol, i would buy beer or something

That is the fuel screw...There is a proper way to tune that circuit. Turn them in until the seat the back out roughly 2- 2.5 turns. It definitely won't be perfect, but close...

Even from the factory that circuit is usually not very well tuned. The brass plug is to prevent you from messing with that circuit and usually from the factory it's set lean for emissions reasons.

Your main is inside the float bowl.

how do i know when its seated? and how can i tell if its right or not, when i get it back on the bike and running?

after getting off to a rough start jetting my carbs, i finally got on the right track thanks to help from u guys...well everything went well until i got to the part where i install the new main jets, the instruction manual said "revome stock jets and replace" didnt say where they were, i thought they were inside the float bowls, but since it didnt say, i thought maybe it was like an external deal, so i removed the only thing i found externally with the included tool, seemed right at the time, get them out and realize they are nothing like jets, looks like a threaded piece with a sharp end on it, i thought it has to do with idle, and thats why i am scared i messed it up.

my problem is that i dont know how tight they are susposed to go back in, all the way? half way? i didnt think they were all the way in, but i didnt pay attention when i removed them, heres some pics, but i did eventually find the main jets, inside the float bowl and got them swapped out, but if anyone could help identify what i messed with, it would be much appreciated. and i promise no more dumb questions....at least for a while.

the piece i am talking about is the brass thing in the middle of each carb, right under the coupler.

thanks, i tried pulling before, but i was afraid of breaking it, and now thanks to the info, i just pulled a little harder and it poped right out, thanks for help!!!

well i received my dynojet stage 1 kit for my 00 cbr f4, i pulled the carbs off tonight and i am trying to install the jets, instructions say to pull cover with spring and rubber diaphram out, which i did, but how do i get that needle part out of the plastic housing with the rubber diaphram? the instructions just show it apart, what am i missing?

i have jetted a carb on an old muscle car once, but this is completly different so any help is appreciated,

well i didnt have much choice, i went to the dealership to get a new stock one, but they didnt have any, just a k &Nand they gave it to me for the price of a stocker so like $30+ off, so i will live with it, but it really did feel leaner with the filter it would surge on pulls, and it didnt do that before the install...so idk

thats what i figured, it seemed real lean when i had it out right after putting the K & N on it, kinda like surged thru the gears on and off, but i just ordered a Dyno Jet stage 1 kit from ebay for $92 shipped, so i dont think thats too bad,

00 CBR, pretty much stock, FMF pipe, K&N blah, blah, blah....would a jet kit benefit me much? also how much will it hurt MPG? i average 43-46 now, but i am willing to sacrifice a few mpg's for a little extra power. also where is cheapest place to buy, so far i found a DynoJet kit from Starcycle-usa.com for $112. thanks for info!!!

-Jack-

I have seen on some bikes, when brakes are applied, the brake light will flash 3 times, then stay on solid, where can i get something like this for my CBR?? i really like that idea of this, with all the dumbass's who dont see riders. thanks for any input.

-Jack-

it only did this for first 30 sec. of running, afters carbs got the junk worked thru and cleared out all was fine, idle is perfect at 1300 now

also do a voltage drop test from battery then at starter, will tell u if u have an open anywhere in that circuit.

depends on bike, tool selection and ones mechanical skills, on my 00 cbr, the first time took about 1 hr 15 min from start to finish second time was down to 35 min.

yea, the more i think about it, i dont think the plugs were fouled, the garage its in has very bad lighting, only 2 bulbs, so its kinda dark, and the new plugs were all white and looked as it it never fired on them, and i kinda assumed it was flooded cause i could smell gas in the air, but i was wrong, it really was not passing gas thru it, because just a little carb cleaner in the carbs and it took right off, and it took a while of running on its own at 5000 rpm before the choke had any effect, then a while longer before the throttle did anything. but deffenitly glad its running again.

alright, After i got home from work, i went out to the garage and tore it down, drained the carbs again, sprayed carb cleaner in each carb and cranked, it fired up, only for a second, then died, now i know its not getting any/ enough fuel, so i put my mouth on the feed line and blew (haha, no comments plz) and pushed fuel back into carbs, cranked nothing, sprayed a shit ton of carb cleaner into fuel line until full, and cranked again, took a while, of doing this, but it finally fired, missed and chugged, then came alive, then died, filled again, and put tank back on and hooked it up, fired up again, but i have no throttle control just stayes revved at 5000 and no difference if choke on or not, so i keep playing with it ( again no comments) and when it got a little heat in it, it started to run better, and choke made a difference then, and i had throttle control again, and idle came down to 1400, awesome!! had a little hesitation, but thats to be expected.. hoppped on and took her for a ride, runs just like it did before, so to sum it up.. im sure the carbs were just gummed up, but carb cleaner cleared it up for now...and a friend just got a 01 corvette with a chip, exhaust and intake and was talking mad shit about how fast it was, and i said, ok, lets race, lol, he backed off right away lol. but anyways thanks for all the help and input, i am looking foreward to spring and doing some riding with u all!

-Jack-

Where the hell is tiffin ??

I could probably help if close by ?

tiffin is about 1 hr 45 min. north of columbus, 30 min east of findlay. 50 min south of toledo, haha does that help?

And I really appreciate everyone help and input, i really like this site, everyone is very close and willing to help everyone out, it really means a lot

Welcome. Nice duckin fuc!

hey, thanks!! By the way, Its For Sale;)

i usually only run either sunoco or shell premium, no el cheapo gas brands, i did notice that with the sudden temp change and it being a concrete floor, the bike was really sweating, anything to do with it? it was the same way back in december when i tried to fire it with no avail.

well just got back from working on it, drained the carbs as told, had clear/clean gas come out, pulled the plugs, didnt look to fouled, like they were not dripping with gas like others ive seen, cleaned them, gapped them. blew compressed air in cyl for a bit and reinstalled, checked all coils, all firing with good spark. put the choke on all the way as told, and cranked, nothing at all!!! what gives? just cranks,

gas is from late november, so not that old, and i just put in a K&N and no nests in air box, i will drain carbs tonight. thanks!!!

battery is fine, cranks nice and fast, i will try draining the fuel. i need to pull the tank again, dont i? damn it, haha