mosci

omg ... a pencil can be deadly too I'm aware of this - but this is mostly happened when people act stupid ... and recharge overdiscarged lipos ... or because people used demaged lipos (or they just want to make a action-loaded video ) some of the older boxes from derek (the servo driven gyrocam like in this original posts but for gopro => http://revenanteagle.org/checksix/gopro-gyrocam/) get's broke on some racetrack-crashes ... but none of them is exploded or they simply fellt off like here most real racebikes don't even have a battery - or also a LiFePo Battery only for starting the engine - you can use this also to power the gyrocam ... but it's not safer at all what power-source is used is up to everyone himself - i prefer lipo-batteries ... they are small, cheap, fast charged, and deviler enough power over a long range of time.

then m then ... maybe ... you can simply use the cad-files in your cnc-device

this video shows 3 testrides ... with different gyro-integration settings (and minor other changes) the lower video (gyro=200) shows the best setting for 'standard speed' (between 50 and 150 km/h) I have found so far I would like to have equal good results on the racetrack to get satisfied

yes yes and yes yes, the brushless-gimbal can be used ... I started with that too but for me it was zu big and unhandy ... so I decided to build it smaller and with a stronger motor to make it possible to use a gopro with the housing. yes, it can be powered from the motorcycle battery or from a 3S LiPo-Accu yes, the gyro should be calibrated on startup - but must not be - you can disable this within the software-gui but I recomend to calibrate at least the gyro on startup - so this is the default setting. I heared it often that people like to build a metall-housing - but what for? the laser-sintered nylon is very strong and lightweight - I just don't see the need to spend more money for no benefit. In a few weeks I will put a partlist and maybe also a small howto to the public on my facebook-site - but fist I have to find better settings for racetracks - for now I have only found good settings for usual roads at normal speed ... roadracing and racetrack settings have to be found ... and last but not least I will sell a couple of these units to get a part of my input back. pure material costs (including the plastic) is arround 200$ (without accu and charger) there is no soldering needed but 2 cable-connectres have to crimped on ... but it's not such a big deal

old thread warmed up ;-) https://www.facebook.com/MotorradGyrocam https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lqk80szSPVI