mosci

omg ... a pencil can be deadly too

I'm aware of this - but this is mostly happened when people act stupid ... and recharge overdiscarged lipos ... or because people used demaged lipos

(or they just want to make a action-loaded video )

some of the older boxes from derek (the servo driven gyrocam like in this original posts but for gopro => http://revenanteagle.org/checksix/gopro-gyrocam/)

get's broke on some racetrack-crashes ... but none of them is exploded

or they simply fellt off like here

most real racebikes don't even have a battery - or also a LiFePo Battery only for starting the engine - you can use this also to power the gyrocam ... but it's not safer at all

what power-source is used is up to everyone himself - i prefer lipo-batteries ... they are small, cheap, fast charged, and deviler enough power over a long range of time.

then m

Because I have a metal shop with lathes, milling machines, etc and I like metal, dammit!

then ... maybe ... you can simply use the cad-files in your cnc-device

this video shows 3 testrides ... with different gyro-integration settings (and minor other changes)

the lower video (gyro=200) shows the best setting for 'standard speed' (between 50 and 150 km/h) I have found so far

I would like to have equal good results on the racetrack to get satisfied

yes yes and yes

yes, the brushless-gimbal can be used ... I started with that too

but for me it was zu big and unhandy ... so I decided to build it smaller and with a stronger motor to make it possible to use a gopro with the housing.

yes, it can be powered from the motorcycle battery or from a 3S LiPo-Accu

yes, the gyro should be calibrated on startup - but must not be - you can disable this within the software-gui but I recomend to calibrate at least the

gyro on startup - so this is the default setting.

I heared it often that people like to build a metall-housing - but what for?

the laser-sintered nylon is very strong and lightweight - I just don't see the need to spend more money for no benefit.

In a few weeks I will put a partlist and maybe also a small howto to the public on my facebook-site - but fist I have to find better settings

for racetracks - for now I have only found good settings for usual roads at normal speed ... roadracing and racetrack settings have to be found ...

and last but not least I will sell a couple of these units to get a part of my input back.

pure material costs (including the plastic) is arround 200$ (without accu and charger)

there is no soldering needed but 2 cable-connectres have to crimped on ... but it's not such a big deal

old thread warmed up ;-)

https://www.facebook.com/MotorradGyrocam

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lqk80szSPVI