Geeto67

Nobody goes to bonneville with a car and trailer "just for fun", everyone there is trying to set a record, many don't and that's the challenge. It's usually brutally hot, the courses are 4-5 miles (short) and 7+ miles (long), the altitude is 4200 ft (almost a mile high with density altitude sometimes over 5000), and there isn't civilization around for miles so everyone camps (bring water). It's probably the only world class motorsport left that is 100% open for amateurs to compete against professionals but the conditions to do so are not for the faint. I get the spending time thing with kids and can't argue with it at all. Going to something like speedweek is a commitment, even as a spectator. As far as rules and records, I have an older SCTA rule book you can borrow to get a feel for the classes (I have a new one on order, although very little changes), and all the records are online (although they don't always tell you the vehicle that set the record). Most of the east coast and mid west LSR rule books mirror the safety guidelines so if you are good for ECTA or Loring you are probably good for Bonneville as well. You can at least get a feel for the classes you want to run in and see where people stand. I believe the Modified blown fuel coupe class (which is where you would probably run) for under 2.0L engines the record is 230mph and the same class but on pump gas is 227mph, so there is the number to beat. just putting it out there because 1/2 mile eventually leads to mile, and mile eventually leads to the salt.

I still think v8 swapping a rare, clean, e36 vert is a mcsteak. Even if the car isn't worth much money. Does the donor have to be OBD I? I see plenty of deals like this for explorer 5.0s: https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/pts/d/2000-ford-50/6415612709.html $300 for a runner is pretty cheap - even if you still need to buy a computer and transmission. plus there are SN95 donors: https://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/pts/d/1996-ford-mustang-50-v8-motor/6406501438.html

The Pouges: Fairytale of New York I am not a religious person because I grew up in a mixed household, celebrated a lot of holidays including xmas, and couldn't care less about the religious story that is attached to xmas. In my opinion people completely miss the message anyway, and then make traditions out of missing the message. Also, the materialism and commercialization of the holiday has pretty much fucked it's original message into the ground. If you strip out all the bullshit all you are left with is good will and charity toward one another (in the original definitions of those words: "kindness and tolerance in judging others" and "friendly, helpful, or cooperative feelings or attitude"). You don't need a manger scene, or a pagent, or a nicely wrapped Amazon Echo to have that - you need good old fashioned human interaction to help grow empathy, esp since it seems to be in short supply these days. And we shouldn't be doing it only once a year - it should be all year and Christmas just serves as a time to renew our spirit. It's easy to get caught up in the excitement and the swirl of the presents, and the food, and the gifts, and forget why we do this at all and have it start to feel like an obligation rather than a connection. Listening to that song several times a year reminds me that there are always people having a shitty xmas, and I should be working more towards making that happen less in anything I do with this season. It kind of bookends nicely with "a charlie brown Christmas", which is something that I and my wife both had as traditions from our childhood and has the positive message that Fairytale of NY is missing. If FTONY doesn't bum you out enough - there is always Tom Wait's Christmas Card from a Hooker in Minneapolis. Empathize with the sadness then remember there is something you can do about it. Remember the forgotten people of this world are not the lower middle class voters in America wearing red hats, they are the people at the bottom and fringes of society. People whose circumstances and society pushed them in to dark corners. Very few people speak for them if ever - but in this season it's nice to remember their struggle and find the Christmas spirit: Good will and Charity toward our fellow human beings. And Merry Christmas everyone.

Plus the Ohio mile is dead, it's now the Arkansas mile for 2018 thanks to Amazon. Honestly, It's your car so you do what makes you happy, but it just seems like a car like this was made for Land speed racing. I don't know what your aspirations are but what about doing 4-5 miles at Bonneville and trying to get into the 200mph club? It would be a once in a lifetime thing but people spend 2-3 times more than what you have in that little colt and never make it close - with the right aero and gears that little DSM probably has 200+mph in it.

Is it a ford 9" or a chevy 12 bolt and not a BOP? because that's cheating.

Austin, As someone who occasionally bleeds Pontiac engine metallic blue (once a month, usually out my vagina, I should probably have that looked at), I can understand the desire to want to keep a pontiac engine in the car. However, it is hard to argue with the advantages of modern technology and sometimes things are popular because they work. Every pontiac engine is old technology and honestly kinda shitty. I don't know if you are aware of this but 1/6th of all 400's were shipped with cranks out of phase - pontiac's solution was to run a big harrison 3 core radiator and use a temp overheat idiot light that went off a 240-260 degrees. People talk about how the LS is not a "real" pontiac, but honestly, do you have a real pontiac if you have a butler performance block, sonny leonard crank, scat rods and ross pistons? I don't really thinks so - it's something else that maybe pays tribute to a pontiac but it isn't any more pontiac than an LS engine. I love how people want to be "brand loyal" with the drivetrain but will overlook something like the entire frame, floor pan, and suspension are the same pieces under a chevelle or a cutlass and shared across 2 other cars. When it comes to speed brand loyalty is a liability not an asset. The point of a hot rod is to go fast. It doesn't really matter how. The LS engines have made that possible because instead of spending $30K on a custom block, heads, intake, etc...you can spend $10K and be able to at least get in the ring of fast street cars. It isn't "cheating" it's just easier. My father used to say brand loyalty doesn't matter, in the 50's your buddy's 50's ford would have a pontiac 331 or an olds J2 engine and the wiring would burn up while you were driving because that's what a hot rod is - a mutt. If you want to "challenge" yourself by keeping it somewhat brand loyal then by all mean go ahead, but just understand you aren't building a fast street car you are building a fast "brand X" which may or may not also be a fast street car. At that point you shouldn't ask "what does it take to play in the street" but rather what am I and my budget capable of? Honestly, if you really wanted to be different - you'd put a worked turbo diesel in it. And that would shock everyone, and nobody would accuse you of cheating. I hear the duramax diesels can make 910hp and 1700 ft lbs of torque: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0906phr-1970-chevy-chevelle-turbo-diesel/ It will be way cheaper than a fast poncho mill.

the metal printers are just amazing. I am looking forward to when I get my kit and it's dialed in and I can try some of those metallic finish filiments that you can polish. There is an "aviation inspired" desk lamp I have been eyeing on thingiverse that would look amazing in polished bronze or aluminum. I'm probably a year away at least from printing that.

I have to be honest, unless you are the kind of sado-masochist that wants to make four figures with a pontiac engine, I don't know why you aren't going LS with a giant turbo. I was just reading the hot rod article on them "stress testing" to failure a 6.0L Gen III LQ4 stock bottom end. They pushed 28.4 PSI into a stock block/rods/crank before it failed and it made 1,483 hp. at 14.6 psi they were over the 1000hp mark. It's not exactly "budget" but it isn't a Pro-Line 482ci "Small block" either (in case you are wondering they are $40K). the engine they used had 246,000 miles to boot so this is kind of spectacular. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/1711-how-much-boost-can-a-6l-ls-truck-short-block-take/ I am not telling you what to do, but if I were in your shoes this is exactly what I would do.

What's a good material to start printing with? The thing doesn't come with any filament so where do I start with material? I imagine after printing a few benchies I am going to want to print the printer upgrades like the fan tip and the frame reinforcements. Should I go for PLA? ABS? PETT? Which is the cheapest? the most forgiving?

had an ex girlfriend with one. Hated being around that thing. Everybody has already covered the basics but I'll add that you have to keep an eye on the damn things. She would let hers roam around her apartment and there were many nights it got inside the walls and we had to coax it out one way or the other. You kinda want to let it roam around like a regular pet but at the same time it will find holes in your house you had no idea about.

I spent the weekend looking at thingiverse and was simply blown away. I can tell already I am going to have a lot of fun with this.

Good because it was meant to be funny.

There are no "boring cars" only boring drivers. Even a Camry is fun if you are sideways and on fire. I will admit, some cars are more fun than others though.

I have a really old copy of Autocad, rhinoocerous, and 3d studio max, like 1999 old. It will make a .DXF file and I used to use it to adjust old wireframe models when I used to make desktop wallpapers in Bryce 3d. I feel like all this stuff is not going to be all that helpful for making actual 3d prints.

Watched a few videos on the printer last night and decided to take the plunge and bought one this morning. I think the software and learning curve is going to be the biggest hurdle for me on this. Any recomendations on free modeling and drafting software?

things like this have been done for ages. Before this supra it was Austins, Anglias, Healys, MGs, Fiat Topolinos, etc..... If you are looking for the advantage in the body, just off the top of my head it's probably going to be found in size, packaging, aerodynamics. A MK 4 supra has a drag co-efficient of .34, a brand new challenger has a drag coefficient of .40, there aren't any published numbers for a 1970 challenger but estimates put the drag co-efficient somewhere around .5 (a 1969 charger has a CD of .5 and the 1969 charger daytona wing car has a CD of about .29 for comparison). People went to old brit cars, jeeps, a and stuffed hemi's and BBC's in them because they they had short wheel bases, lighter weight, and more efficient packaging. While this guy probably chose a MK4 supra because it was he was familiar with it's pretty fair to say he enjoys all those benefits. A unibody supra is going to have a thinner panel thickness in all the metal and 30+ years of engineering evolution in how to make the structure rigid (even if you stick a massive tube frame and carbon fibre floor in the middle of it) when compared to a unibody 1970 challenger. A 2017 challenger would probably have the same panel thickness as the supra but there is just more sheetmetal because the thing is almost twice the supra's size.

You are right clay, some empty beer cans will hold their value better than that car when he's done racking up 100K+ miles on it. I mean, there is the 5 cent deposit right?

I like it. There is something cathartic about having a reliable car that you can treat like an empty beer can. It's stick, it's got crank windows, and A/c. It's not the hero you deserve, but it's got everything you need.

wow, that is a deal. How tough is it to put together? I'm not the best at soldering.

who here knows about 3d printers? So I have been lurking around the Thingiverse and man there is some neat stuff there. Problem is, I don't know the first thing about 3d printing or how to get started. Like what's good, what's not, what is used to model stuff.... Where does someone begin? Someone suggested the Prusa3D MK2S printer to me as being the machine that has everything I am supposed to want (even though I don't know what I want) but it's kinda pricey for something I have to build myself ($600) and doesn't come with a manual. Are there better options? I kinda just want to plug something in and start printing and learn by doing. What I want to use it for is to make some emblems for the motorcycles I restore, plus some guitar parts, and maybe print some RC airplane parts (and one of the 3dprintlab RC planes eventually). so...thoughts?

So there are two things going on here. 1) When compressing the air, the water is squeezed out of the air from vapor. When when you use the air line the vacuum caused by the pressure release sucks up these water droplets and spits them out the other end where they can clog up your blaster or become a droplet in your paint. As far as I know, a desiccant type or physical filter are the best for removing these that are no longer vapor. 2) Wet air. When moving from say a cold dank corner of the basement through the line to the eventual nozzle outside, the air may warm up making it easier for some of those squeezed out droplets to become vapor again. using a chiller type removes the vapor as it makes it harder for the water to remain a gas. typically you will see a chiller type in work in conjunction with a gravity water trap post compressor to separate the air. dry air goes in, the last bit of moisture gets squeezed out and the gravity trap gets the little bit squeezed out. This is all based on my experience with this and I am by no means an expert. One thing to consider is that paint is sometimes sensitive to air temp. too cold an it will take longer to dry and might skin over and not level properly, too warm and it will dry before it hits the surface. your line temp should ideally be close to your outside ambient air temp, if not slightly colder. so it's really 6 of one and half a dozen of the other. I think this plan of yours will probably work fine: so yeah whether you use a desiccant dryer or a cooler to remove the water you are still going to need a filter or trap to pull the remainder out and also get the other garbage in the air like smog. I think your cooler will probably work fine, it's just a heck of a lot of space to give up compared to something like this: http://www.eastwood.com/dvb-qc3-air-filter-and-dryer.html?mrkgcl=764&mrkgadid={_mrkgadid}&rkg_id=h-7d4cb29d57210d5b40d5118ec51f92f8_t-1511812325&product_id={product_id}&adpos={adposition}&creative={creative}&device={device}&matchtype={matchtype}&network={network}&SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=Cj0KCQiAjO_QBRC4ARIsAD2FsXNJ0yH8jKFsir3_h9umLc2pJWta_uVbDsE_tCrbyIr7cDJc_vWdclsaArIWEALw_wcB

I have had one of those Eastwood media blasting cabinets for about 20 years. I have an inline desiccant dryer at the compressor and one at the box where the line goes in. The cabinet is big enough to hold 4 wheels so not massive, but not tiny. typically with blasting you aren't running a lot of pressure, over 30 and the sand starts to eat the nozzle really quickly, so clumping is something you have to stay ahead of. I haven't had a lot of clogs with it, and most of it due to humidity in the cabinet itself. I put one of the dryers at the box because the compressor is installed in the back of attached garage but we frequently rolled the cabinet outside to do blasting (it's very messy) and the line was getting condensation buildup. I can't speak for painting with that compressor, but I have one installed on my airbrush compressor and never had an issue. For a bigger setup you'll need a Filter and a Dryer either in a combo unit or seperate in tandem. With bigger tanks, I have been told the secret is draining them frequently. on the 60 gallon compressor, when I was using it regularly I used to drain before each use and was pulling 1/2 cup of water out the bottom.

It's funny, you and I have pretty much the same taste in this area. I wish I could get crank windows on a lot of cars. I could take or leave AC and radio, but the one thing I really do want is sound deadening and heat insulation. I like to drive with my shoes off sometimes on long trips and my Jeep doesn't have either, the floor gets really hot. Plus my GTO and Jeep neither have sound insulation and it gets really fatiguing on long trips, I like hearing the car, but not to the point where it's an echo chamber. because of my long legs tilt wheel is preferred. And cruise control, for long trips. Neither is a must have, but they are both things I use more often than not.

Since this sentence is barely english, I assume you mean the regular traffic laws like speed limits and such, right? The conversation isn't about changing those laws, but more about control of the vehicle to properly operate within those laws. If I need to explain to you the difference between an acadia and a car that is doing something that breaks records for what previous street cars can do, then I'm sorry your logic is a pretzel. The point of these bleeding edge cars is to provide an experience that very few people are used to, so yeah they might require some extra training to become accustomed to. Not everybody who buys these cars is an enthusiast in the sense that they spend their weekends doing track days or at the strip - some are just dipshits with money. sigh.....typical CR bullshit bravado. So I am going to guess you haven't spent any time around fast motorcycles. Because you see this all the time with sportbikes - guys, even ones with some riding experience, buy these 8 and 9 second overpowered machines and they go out and they easily get into situations, even normal every day traffic situations where they are obeying the limit, that are completely over their heads. The moment that your vehicle is significantly faster or can stop better than the traffic around you the number of factors you have to account for goes up exponentially. I have known plenty of sportbike riders who weren't used to the increased stopping power and panic stopped their bikes right into the front of the vehicle behind them because they weren't used to the sensitivity. The model I am proposing is similar to what most of the states already do for motorcycles through the MSF. Outsource it to a contractor, make the customer pay for it. no increase to government cost. I'm guessing you have never had to insure anything exotic either. If you did you would know about the metric shit ton of insurance restrictions that come with exotic cars, and how much of a rate hike you get if you tell them you want to DD something like a LaFerrari or Veryon. here is a hint it's not $100 a month. So yes if this means the owner can DD his supercar (and again we are only talking about supercars here) for something pretty reasonable - I'd think they would care. see comment above - no additionally employees. Customer pays the cost when they want the license. Same way ODOT does it with MSF, or any of the trucking schools. requiring a driver to have training handle special equipment on the road is always a good idea. The only question is - do these cars qualify as "special" enough to require some training. I say yes, you obviously don't feel that way. But hey we are at least discussing it.

and here is where it gets political. Personally I think the car is awesome, it should exist, and if people have the money to buy it they totally should. I also think that your logic jump to get from the discussion about car licensing to guns was so big your brain should have flashed a picture of the general lee continuously while you were thinking it. Who are we to continually say what should and be shouldn't done? that's easy we are the potential victims of your shortsightedness and irresponsibility. The laws don't exist to infringe on your personal "liberty", they exist because you are too selfish or short sighted to consider the responsibility you owe to others in operating something like that. you want to own a car like that and drive it on the track? literally nobody is going to stop you. You want to use something like that in the shared communal space that we call our public roads? well maybe we should at least discuss it. People respond to incentives, sometimes those incentives take the form of laws, where if you can prove you are a responsible person you get to do things others don't. Let's face it people aren't going to "take personal responsibility" for their actions no matter how much you piss and moan that they should. But they will act responsibly if you you set up the incentives/disincentives correctly. Maybe because of extra licensing requirements the insurance cost goes down on some of these hyper cars - there's something we can all get behind. Plenty of countries (free ones, democratic ones, this one) have tiered licensing systems. We do it for trucks and cars and taxis and it works perfectly fine. Japan goes even further and has special licensing for manual transmission cars, high performance motorcycles, and various other vehicles. Maybe that's why they have 3 times less the motor vehicle mortality rate than we do. Nobody is talking about a ban, just you know - some extra training before you are let loose on the street with a car that may be over your head.