axoid

Thanks for the input. The 04 Saturn VUEs have Honda J35A engines in them (GM recoded them L66). If I do an exhaust it will be headers to a powered cutout dump so I can keep a generally quiet daily driver. No one that I have found has a CAI kit yet, so this would have to be hacked together. I don’t want to get in too heavy on the VUE since the Camaro is still my primary performance focus. Since all I've worked on SBCs up to now, I have no familiarity with Hondas, so I asked.

That's not going to happen. tongue.gif Next.

Does anyone know of any simple power mods for a Honda J35A motor? I'm not looking to void the warranty, but some simple sub $200 mods would be nice. Something other than nitrous. Thanks,

You don't need to reprogram the TBI ECM until you start changing cams or heads. I was able to take my RS from 145rwhp to 181rwhp without touching the computer or opening up the engine.

Does any one know of someplace that has a four wheel scale system? I'm installing a four corner weight jack system in my Camaro this winter and I would like to balance the car properly and I'm not yet ready to drop $1300+ for a scale system of my own. I could get it close by guessing but I'd like to do it right.

You may be able to thet them on 8.5's, but 9.5's are the recomended wheel size for 275 tires. If you install tires on smaller than recomeneded wheel the side walls will bulg out and the tires won't work as well are they could. Goto the tire makers web site a look up the tires spec sheet ans see what they recomened. If you can't find it there try TireRack.com

The spec is for 0 valve lash. I tightened each rocker nut as I twisted the pushrod. Once the rod stopped twisting I added a quarter turn and moved to the next rocker. There is definitely popping when I let off a 5500 and there has been some popping below that in the past, but not consistently. I don’t know if it has any thing to do with it, but I had some intake backfires when I was first tuning for the new heads, cam, intake, but that went away when I added timing to the ignition map in the ECU.

If you mean adjustable buy being able to set the gap or pre-load on the spring, get yes they're ajustable.

The S/R Torquer 305 heads are also new. They came with the valve and springs pre-assambled on the heads. There have been no modifications made to the heads. The lifters, rods and rockers are stock GM.

I'll check them, but they were installed new this spring. They're 100 lbs springs and rated for .550 lift. I only running than .459 lift.

The spec is .035. The orginal plugs were at .040 when I pulled them out. The new plugs were gaped just under .035 when I installed them a week ago.

I've had the stock one and two different Accel modules in since the problem started. The newest of the Accel modules is current in the destributor.

I'm out of ideas. My SBC starts to miss once it top 4800 rpms. The fuel is fine, I've confirmed that on the Brian's dyno. I have check and replaced everything in the ignition system: coil, HEI module, plugs, plug wires, distributor. I've played around with the initial timing and the timing in the computer. The miss has gotten better, but it's still there. Does anyone have any useful suggestions? Thanks.

That is fairly normal (assuming that your letting it set with the engine off). On my car the fuel pump will run for 2 seconds when I turn the key to run to build fuel pressure. That way the fuel system is primed for when I turn the key to start. 60 psi seems a little high for stock fuel pressure, but I don't know what the normal psi is for your car.

There's a moronic statement. I’m running Kumho 712’s in 245/45/16 and I have nothing to complain about when the temperature is above 45, below that they suck. I’ve also autocrossed them a few times and they run completive with other street tires (the right air pressure is the key). Of course they don’t stand up my 265/45/16 VictorRacers. I only have a 8k on them but I haven’t seen any real wear problems except when I ran them at Norwalk last year, I tore the hell out of them.

I've done most of the suspension myself. It really pretty simple, you just have to be careful with the springs. The only times I farmed out the work is when the bolts were so corroded that I couldn't break them loose or when it needed special tools or skills. If you need to replace bushings just take the parts off and have the new bushings pressed in and reinstall. I had the front shocks and alignment done at Bee Line. I had the rear gears and lower control arms installed at R&S automotive.

Super Stallion was designed to run on Ethanol or Gasoline or any mixture of the two. I wish they (Gov and Fuel Co’s) would get off their collective asses and bring E85 to this state. I would be more than happy to replum and retune the Camaro’s engine for it. A 10%-15% hp boost just for running E85 over gas.

I'm running Koni's front and rear. The fronts were about $180 a piece and the rears were about $108 each. Expensive, but god what a improvement they made. The nice thing with Koni and Bilstien is that if you want to retune them, you can have them revalved to change there performance. There is a place in Hilliard that rebuilds and revalves Konis.

Holley sells the Commander 950 for around $500-600, but FAST and Accel start around $1100-1300. The FAST system that I was looking at was was $2200, but included an intergrated wide-band O2 sensor. You can create or buy adaptors that will plug the stand-alone into the factory harness. The only guy I know that KNOWS this stuff is Lee Howie in Grove Port

I'll give you the same advice that was given me when I started talking to a local tuner about building up a super engine for my Camaro. Switch in an aftermarket stand-alone computer. FAST (http://www.fuelairspark.com) was recommended to me. Good stand-alones are not cheap, but if you going forced induction, it’s almost a necessity. With a new car like yours, you’ll probably need to piggyback the stand-alone with the factory computer. Using the stand-alone to run the fuel and spark and letting the factory computer control everything else.

Well it look like I would fall into 26th place. 181 WHP 270 WQT 3450 lbs. est. I'm looking forward to spring, new heads, cam and intake should bump me at least 40 hp.

I'm also using this shift light and I'm very happy with it.

I had a simular problem a while back and didn't realize it until I installed the headers. The plugs were black with carbon. I replaced the plugs, Cap and rotor (90K of ware), wires and the O2 sensor. It's been running fine ever since.

I'm not an expert on 4th gens, but if the 350 you want is a GenI block I know you'll have to change the motor mounts, I'm not sure on the trany mount. I think your also going to run into hood clearence problems with the stock hood and you'll need to replace the front springs with ones off a Z-28.

I just got my Koni shocks in. As soon as I install them I'm going to need to have an alignment done. Anyone have a shop that they will recommend on the south or east side of town?