Sam1647545489

Tank I sent you a im on aim, get back with me when you can.

If you put nitrous on a car that has 170K miles on it and a slipping clutch, jusy make sure there is nobody around you on the outside when parts fly. Also have a good tow truck ready because more than likely you motor is gonna go graemlins/puke.gif . But if you seriously do this go with a wet kit. It took me 5 hrs to do mine w/o instructions so it really not that hard. But I would seriously just build the motor first before you spend 400$ on nitrous and the 2500$ on a motor the first couple times you spray it.

Brian, isnt the rule for nitrous is jet it until the motor blows then back down 2 jets. *This is only a joke, do not take this personally, do not blow your motor up*

Nx is the best stuff out there IMO. I got a nos wet kit and this winter I am goin with a NX kit. Everything on a NX kit is bigger i.e. the solenoids are 2x bigger then the NOS brand. That means that you get the most out of your jets.

graemlins/thumb.gif see it now.

All I see are red x's

Gotcha, yeah I found as soon as I posted that. I goin to purchase that cam. Alot of peolpe on the corvette forumsaid that was a better cam to go with. Also you think I should go ahead with some 1.8 roller rockers to help out?

oops graemlins/doh.gif

Steve who did your install on your cam. What did you end up paying for the install.

Well this is the cam I am thinking on goin with. I also am getting some new stage 2 heads alone with them. I plan on doin the headers also. This all will done in the winter. Just getting all info I can before purchasing. I want to purchase all the right things the first time around. smile.gif

Ok I am a retard. I gave you the wrong specs. It is 230/227 .591/.571 112LSA

I need to know if you need to fly cut the pistons for this cam to work. Specs are 224/227 .563/.569 144LSA

With a stock car it prolly wouldnt move after the first launch, goodbye drive shafts.

OK now I really need to get someone to fix it. All I have to do is give the guy 150$ to get it and then pay to have the tranny fixed. Anyone want to make a couple hundred bucks.

You think you can fix it?

heres some pics http://home.insight.rr.com/samsc5/truck_alex_001.jpghttp://home.insight.rr.com/samsc5/truck_alex_002.jpg Here is what they took off so far http://home.insight.rr.com/samsc5/truck_alex_003.jpg Here is a pic of the truck. I think if I could get the tranny fixed it might be worth it. http://home.insight.rr.com/samsc5/truck_alex_004.jpg

Do you mean 351? Does the truck run now and your converting it to 2wd? What exactly do you need done? whoops I just saw that, I meant 351. It runs great. What happened was it was my neighbors and the tranny went, then he had some of his friends try and fix it. I dont know what they did, they said they stripped one of the starter bolts and cant get it off to take out the tranny. Thats all that is holding them back. Then of course they left town 2 days ago. The owner said he will sell it to me as is for 400$. I want to buy it just need to fix the tranny. Dont want to put to much money in it. I go take pics of what is done. All it needs is a rebuilt tranny put in.

I need to know if anyone knows a good transmisson guy to swap transmissons on a 89 ford bronco. I will buy the new one just need the install. I got the 4wd transfer case off and just need tranny swapped. It has the 350 v8 in it. Thanks smile.gif

God I hope that is off, I put 490+ tq to it and ran low 12's with it. It seems to be holding ok.

I'd say you are fooked.

Well my best run was 393.8rwhp and 520rwtq (125shot). The tq number was a guesstament from dyno brian seeing we lost the tq number on the last run. If you want another tq number you can use the 100 shot numbers of 384.8rwhp and 490.6rwtq.

Why do you want race gas when nobody races

Then forget about nitrous

Also pm nitrousbird, he knows his shit and helped me alittle with my stuff, i.e. with alot of info.

Definitly colder plugs. I got some NGK-TR6 gapped at .035 just for the added safety. Also do not buy platium plugs, go copper. You really dont need a bottle warmer but I would get one, I just did. I dont know how dry kits work but I would look into buying a fuel pressure shut off switch or a fuel pressure gauge. I am still buying things for my kit, I am going to buy a remote bottle opener. These are good not only because you can open the bottle with it but because if you ever get a stuck nitrous solenoid you can close the bottle in a instant. You do not want to have nitrous shooting into your motor when you are not at WOT. I would paint the bottle something cool like I did http://home.insight.rr.com/samsc5/bottle.jpg