20G TSi

Originally posted by Moltar:

Now, first off, find a street driven, highway lovin' 1300-2200hp small block V8. Once you've found one, run it a little lean under boost, and tell me what happens? Same damn thing.

 

So, why are Rotaries crap?

I ran my supercharged 302 lean for a year before I broke a compression ring and mangled the piston crown.

I have a chance to pick up a very nice condition/arizona 1979 Regal S-type (I think its its "s" type). Its a 4 barrel carb'd 3.8L turbo.... Is $700 a good price for a good running car that needs tranny work? Are these things as capable as the T-type and GN's?

TIA for the info-

Jason

my opinion is if you put the blower on without all (and I DO mean all) supporting mods, you'll have broken rings in the #8 cyl.

save the money, go through the motor and buy a set of aluminum heads... and nickel and dime the supporting mods and get the blower next year

Originally posted by copperhead:

thank you, drive through

[ 29. January 2003, 08:07 PM: Message edited by: No Soup for You ]

Originally posted by bigbabyjesus:

I know RL was breaking half shafts left and right, Dyno Brian went through about 2-3 trannies and PonyPimptress went through at least one this year.

[ 29. January 2003, 08:06 PM: Message edited by: No Soup for You ]

soo much for not turning this into a flame fest, huh.

sorry.

I voted DSM.... 40% of owners say they spend more time wrenching on'em than driving'em.

Originally posted by copperhead:

meant to put 'stang, not 'stand

 

and offhand, i can think of 1yearprobation (formerly moreticketsthancr) and reckless op

 

reckless op's car has 14,xxx miles on the odo, and he's got some nasty vibrations going on.

 

1yearprobation thinks he needs a rearend

 

Those are the only two people on here that i have met personally that own mustangs, and they both have driveline problems

Originally posted by copperhead:

how many 'stand owners on here are currently in need of tranny or rear end work?

Originally posted by Stolen 5.0:

i would definately go with the 31 spline axles. i just had my rear end re done with 3.73 gears, rebuild the limited slip and all the bearings and seals. but i still won't run slicks. 28 spliners might break

31 spline c-clip elim axles w/ the eliminators pressed on: $400

Auburn Pro diff: $389

$789 will get you a 600rwhp w/ slicks capable rear end.

not that its smart, but I've gone 10.34 on a bone stock rearend with just 3:55 gears, granted only twice. I've run a lot of 11.0's with 1.5X 60's with JUST a set of 8.5" M&H's, absolutely no suspension or mechanical changes from the 1989 trac-lok. I never left the line on the nitrous though, or I woulda probably blown up the rear or broke an axle. The stock 8.8 is a lot stronger than most people think.

Like I said, its not smart, so I'm not bragging. I have a set of c-clip elim 31 spline axles in the garage, but not in the car, yet.

i still use the ratchet clutch quadrant in my 11.0 car thats gone 10.30's. Same 1989 clutch cable too.

usually the only time you'll have problems with the quadrant is if you go with a heavier pressure plate. You may have have put a nice glazing on the flywheel... that'll give you a on-off type of clutch feel.

Originally posted by 100% Rice:

lol...I thought "crushed" was some crappy brand of BOV I had just never heard of...lol...guess I'm not up on my DSM lingo...

 

K

its the lazy way of making a stock 1G BOV hold boost above 18psi, regardless of results.

This is the best explaination of the DSM BOV you'll find. Copied from DSMTALK.com:

It is not ONLY the vacuum that opens a bov. It is the pressure differential between the boosted pipe that it mounts on and the vacuum in the manifold. When you are at WOT the manifold line has similar (almost the same) pressure as the UICP. With equal pressure on both sides of the valve it would only require a couple of pounds of spring pressure to hold it closed (it is a game of tug-a-war). However when you go into partial throttle the the TB will create a slight differance in pressure between the UICP and the manifold, it will now require a little more pressure to keep the valve closed. This may cause the BOV to flutter the extra pressure out. When you are coming off of full boost, and allow the throttle to close completely (take your foot off of the gas) the UICP has say 20psi in it while the manifold has 17inhg of vac. This extreme pressure differential easily overcomes the spring pressure, it forces the BOV to suddenly be blown open by the pressure and simultaniously be sucked open by the vacuum. What I am getting at is that it is a combination of the vacuum and boost that operates the BOV. So to crush a valve so that it required 18 PSI of vacuum alone to open the valve would probably hold more boost at closed throttle than desired. A loose BOV will open to oftenly at partial throttle and hurt performance. A BOV that has to much spring pressure will not allow enouph boost out at partial throttle or closed throttle and you will experience a mild to bad case of turbo surge (excessive turbo wear). I am not sure what the actuall desired spring pressure is ( it will varry slightly from car to car) but I prefer my BOV to be a little tight, this will retain more boost in the system in between gears.

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html

GL

Jason

crushing the BOV will hinder flow. You're getting compressor surge - the valve isnt opening as far anymore.

How much vacuum does it take to open the BOV?

Originally posted by 100% Rice:

I'm coming after both you dyno queen biotches... smile.gif

 

K

sprayin a lil on the dyno might do it

[ 06. January 2003, 03:50 PM: Message edited by: Jasons TSi ]

run wires to your fuse box if you cant find them behind the dash. Ground on anything on the firewall or something that bolts to the firewall.

GL

Jason

two reasons I'd go with a ford:

1. Its smaller, which should help ease fitment/headers, etc.

2. The distributer is in front of the motor, not back by the firewall like a typical 350. If you're going with any of the newer 350's, I believe they have the distributer in the front anyways.

If those factors dont make the swap any easier, my unbiased opinion would be to use the 350, since it has the potential to make more HP cheaper.