ridenred27

yeh that is a commen problem with festivas is the crank seal leaks the oil gets on the belt and makes it slip. it also deteriats the belt causing stretch.

now your exaust can play a big part on gas milage those carbs are tuned to that restictive exaust. ive seen where and read where increasing exaust diameter can have a neg effect on the milage.(bad exaust same thing) i am assuming that this is a feed back carb (computer carb) and you have a leak before the o2 sensor that will cause the computer to enrich the fuel mixture. as far as the lucas additive ive used it in my frieghtliner at every fill up and got almost 1.5mpg increase which is alot for a big truck. my mother uses it at every oil change and she has seen noticable increase in mpg since she started. she drives around 130 miles a day. but cheveron additive works well too ive used them both with good results. hope this helps

wow i really dont know what to say. i would have to agree with alot that has been said here so far. i guess that i would fall into the noob section i dont have many posts but i have only got to meet up twice with you all and last fri was great, i met alot of great people. i cant say that our paths would have crossed if not for cr. its a real shame. hope that this can be resolved. hope that the mods and admin read these posts and take the sugestions into concederation. and not to step on any toes but the mods should be more strict on the rules. and i know the mods have lives outside of cr and cant be here all the time. but that is where we should self regulate the posts and not feed into the bs. that is what the intranet thugs want. hopefully this can be resolved. looking forward to seeing those that show up fri. Rolla p.s. anothy sorry that i didnt get back with you about the venders area but im looking at another building and i didnt want to wast your time with the info just yet.

before you tear into the carb go to napa and pick up a pint/quart of lucas fuel treatment this stuff works very well in gas and diesels cleans the carbon and helps with dispersing water.

tractor supply company

1-3-5 i think i can know for sure tomorrow

i would really think about having the other hubs welded when you fix that one. from the pic the fresh rust is the only place the weld was holding on at and that dosent look like much. but the pics may just make it look that way. at least you guys made it back in one piece.

turbo it. do a search for turbo z24 there is a kid that has a turboed z24 there that runs mid 12s

call out to trails west and talk to steve he is the service man there . he was a tech at a golf car company for years

the brake booster will not have any effect on brake pedal travel. or where the brakes grab at. booster is a big rubber blater that assists the throw of brake pedal and master cyl push rod.

adjust the rear shoes if it has any. if rear disk car check the caliper slides/pins and pads for any kind of binding or froze pins. if shoes are out of adj the master cly will have to push additional amount of fluid to the wheel cly. causind a mushy pedal. also same applies to the front there would be to much free space between caliper rotor or pads. hopefully i made sense and didnt ramble on to much smile.gif

pm buckeye he might know

that is a .0015 press fit .0020 is max for a press fit on almost any bearing.so those are within spec. call 871 0890 and speak to Walt (napa's machine shop).tell him the situation and he will be able to help. this guy is great tought me a lot about machine work. also tell him that Rolla said to talk to the old man. its just an inside joke that we had. but dave is right the person who pressed those on messed up some were.

i hear your concern but driving it on will not be a problem the front stops are tall. you would have to ramp up on it to jump the stops. but if you need it let me know

ive got a tow dolley that i could loan you.

more than likely a wheel bearing. but may be a c/v shaft. does the noise go away when the wheel is turned the other way.

pc-7 that is what larry morgan uses to fill and contour the ports. also you can buy a high nickel content arc stick and it will hold but you will have to preheat the weld area first. that is what you called me for

i agree with tractor see if you are getting proper fuel pressure. and some times the ignition switch will stick internaly. which will cause it to start with out warning. pull the fuel filter off and blow through it there should be almost no restriction.

what kind of car/truck is it.

got the tool. i am a mech. and i had to buy it a good while ago. but thanks for warning me. its been a couple months since ive done the last set. smile.gif

you got a pm

do you have any cable left to pull. if not i can get you in

it could be a cracked flywheel ive seen many mitsu's w/autos do this. they crack around the converter bolts and also at the crank bolts. sounds stupid but worn mounts bind the exaust and other parts. causing weird noises. take a rubber mallet or make a fist and bang on the exaust and also shake it from side to side. does the noise change when you stall the converter

there is a place that does body dipping. cant remember there name. but they are on the same road as columbus steel drum. i think that is claycraft rd in gahanna. hope this helps. oh the prices are a little high

does the timing chain look like the LT1 chain. second look closely at the intake those are good for cracking and leaking. oh and one more thing is it a seqential port injection. just tring to get a picture of the engine design