BOOST_ME

I've got one for you to shy away from: Yoko AVS Sport. These are awesome in the rain with good wear, but weren't soft enough for my taste and lacked the lateral grip I was looking for. Still a great tire, but not one to suit your needs. I'll be trying a set of S-03's next. Jamie

Rockville Mitsu has them for $89.97--check here: http://www.mitsupartsdirect.com Conicelli is usually about 10% less: http://www.partznet.com Don't order it online. Call them up and make sure to mention the Club DSM discount BTW install is pretty straightforward. [EDIT: This is for the non-ABS hub (MR103653). The ABS hub (MR103654) may be a bit more.) Jamie

Ahhh... One of many ongoing debates that I have yet to see/hear of any real proof for either side. Granted if you're talking smack-daddy turbo, you'd probably benefit from the external dump. However, for daily driving, you probably won't even notice the difference in backpressure. Nothing quite like the sound at WOT though Jamie

My first mods would be gauges--a real boost gauge and an EGT to start off. Then I'd replace all flexible piping with metal ones and throw on a test pipe while you're at it. From there, free up the intake and exhaust and only crank the boost if you've got the fuel to match Jamie

Auto or manual? My guess is the former since your having trouble locating it The auto speed sensor is on the frontside of the tranny accross from the starter near the dipstick. There are four connectors running out of the wiring harness. It's the third from the last sitting parallel to the ground. The manual tranny sensor sits just above the passenger side input sleeve for the axle. It drops in towards the ground. I'm looking at all of this in my manual and may be talking out of my ass here (I haven't worked much on the 2G non-turbos), but hopefully it all makes sense. If not shoot me a PM and I'll try to describe things better. Jamie

How many pounds of boost are you running? If it's over 15, I wouldn't recommend the GReddy Type-S (go with a Type-R if you can fit it). My Type-S is real picky with higher boost. Jamie

I'd take a look at some Kumho's. Jamie

98.7 HP, 121.1 TQ on FFI's Dynojet. Approx 3100lbs with me in it. Jamie

Cheap enough to seriously consider the purchase of the car. Jamie

What head gasket are you using? Jamie

What's the temp rating on the thermostat? If it's not 160* or 170*, then go back for another. (Stock 1G is 190* while the 2G is lower.) Are your fans kicking on? Passenger side kicks with temp, driver's kicks with A/C or if temp gets out of hand. Have you wired both fans together? Do you have A/C? Did you take out the A/C radiator? Do you run with the A/C fan on? If you have the A/C still, pull the relay and run with the fan on. Original water pump?!? :smack: Jamie

Until they crack Jamie

Reinforced radiator tubing. Jamie

I've got most of the small parts to do the swap (pedals, flywheel, master cylinder, cables, etc...), but no tranny or ECU. Hit me up with a PM if interested. The few people I've talked to that have done one of these don't make a big deal about the actual swap. From what I've had my hands on, it doesn't look hard. Tedious at times, but not hard. Jamie

Yes, that should be plenty safe. Glad to hear it's coming together smile.gif Jamie

Experience...no, but it's not too difficult of a job. If you come across a good core at a good price, then go for it. You can piece together the piping from RRE or other vendors. The pipes may not look as pretty as a kit built for your car, but it'll get the job done. Besides a little welding and paint/powdercoat can do wonders. Jamie

Since your LED isn't lit at full boost, I'm willing to bet your O2 sensor is gone--otherwise you'd be getting some knock--as long as everything is hooked up right. When was the last time it was replaced? (The front one, don't worry about the back ) Jamie

It seems to run best around 16-17psi. Could the 6cm housing be causing crazy back pressure in the exhaust manifold, creating excess heat? The intercooler is now hot to the touch after normal driving, but with the T25, it was always right around ambient temp., even after beating on it. Definately, an AFC is on the list, but its past the cost of the 7cm housing. Which do you think I should do first?</font> Well, you should be able to run 17-19 PSI safely--especially with the MKIV sidemount. The heat has me puzzled thought--are you using an EGT? Have you checked for leaks? If you're leaking boost, you could be overworking the turbo. I'd grab the AFC/AFR first (you'll "need" one sooner or later) and an EGT if you don't have one already. You have an upgraded BOV don't you? Jamie

What kind of boost are you running? An AFC/AFR would help as well (I think the rewired pump may be keeping you rich). You should be in the 13's, but without the tranny mods, it'll make things more difficult. Jamie

http://www.vfaq.com/proj-pics/clutch/1G/clutch-22.jpg Jamie

I'll second that. I got the info from Dirk at ACT. Jamie

There's an oil pressure sender on the bottom of the engine near the driver's side tire. It sits directly below the water pump. Check it and see if there's any water drops on it. That should help you determine if the pump is leaking the coolant out--I've had water there when both pumps went in my 93 and 95. Jamie

Force Fed has done a few of them. Check with Tony. Jamie

It's capable of that and more. You can squeeze 275 out of your T25 and the 14B can flow (50?)more CFM. I'm talking in a DSM here and don't know how it will mate with the Honda. Both tend to fall off after 6K RPMs with 15+ lbs of boost, but should do well if running less than 10 lbs or so. Jamie