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Red1990LX

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Posts posted by Red1990LX

  1. I have sold my mustang and no longer need these parts. I was going to do a fox intake swap on an SN-95 Mustang but never did. I have a few parts for sale all are considered used since they are not in the original package.

    Edelbrock Performer Intake SOLD

    BBK 70mm Throttle body with spacer SOLD

    Vortech Intake Pipe with rubber couplings (no band clamps) $50

    Smog delete pully (Billet Aluminum) $20

    Just sitting in the garage...

  2. Why is the speedometer km/h?

     

    Very nice car, GLWS

     

    I was wondering how long it would take for someone to notice that. This was originally a Canadian car, but wasn't driven in the winters up there. It still has MPH but it's just in smaller numbers. The odometer is in Km as well...

  3. Trying to get a jump on the Spring. I have had this car since 2007 and have barely put 500 miles on it. I am going in a different direction and am trying to get things going. Nothing wrong with the car, very fast very easy to drive. I am tring to get $9,500 for it but am open to offers as well. Please no thread jacking or anything like that...

     

    Basic Info:

    1994 laser red tinted clearcoat Mustang GT

    ~75k miles on the body, 9K on new motor

    Rear window and quarter windows tinted

     

    Suspension

    GW Rear lower control arms

    800# f springs (linear)

    180# rear springs (linear)

    Energy Suspension Urethane front sway bar mounts

    Koni Double Adjustable (yellow) shocks & struts

    Max Motorsports camber/caster plates

    Grigg's Bumpsteer kit

    Urethane spring isolators

     

    Chassis

    GW subframe connectors

    Steeda Front Strut Tower Brace (not installed)

    Solid steering shaft

    Aluminum rack bushings

    Konig Villain 17x9" wheels

    Kumho Ecsta SPT tires 275/50/17

     

    Front Brakes

    Brembo 4-piston calipers

    13" cross-drilled rotors, zinc washed

    Goodridge Stainless Lines

    Speedbleeders

    Hawk HPS pads

     

    Rear Brakes

    Hawk HPS pads

    Cross-drilled rotors

    Speedbleeders

     

    Engine

    Engine bored .030" over, 306 cid

    Magnafluxed/Blueprinted block

    Balanced rotating assembly

    Crank oil holes chamfered

     

    Probe SRS Forged pistons, ~8.5:1 compression ratio

    Ductile iron piston rings w/Chrome scrapers

    Forged H-Bean connecting rods

    Sportsman crankshaft damper

    TFS Stage 1 cam

    Stud-mount 1.60 roller rockers

    Edelbrock 6061 Heads

    3-angle valve job, 1.92" intake, 1.60" exhaust valves

    New roller lifters

    Trick Flow chromemoly pushrods

    MSD distributor cap

    Crane HI-6 Ignition system w/coil

    JP Performance timing chain/sprockets

    NGK Spark Plugs (2 ranges colder)

    Cobra rocker covers

    FMS head gaskets

    Felpro engine gaskets

    Fresh bearings (all)

    ARP screws/bolts

    Mobil 1 10w-30 fully synthetic after proper break-in

     

    Fuel

    42 lb/hr injectors (Ford)

    Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator (newest version)

    255 in-tank Walboro fuel pump

    Vortech T-Rex fuel pump

     

    Intake

    FMS Cobra intake manifold

    FMS 65mm throttle body

     

    Supercharger

    Vortech S-trim

    Smaller pulley, 15psi boost

    Rebuilt supercharger, fresh bearings & seals

    AFM 4" power pipe

    Pro-M 80mm MAF

     

    Cooling

    Fluidyne 3-core radiator

    Earl's stacked plate oil cooler

    180-deg thermostatic oil filter adapter

    196-deg thermostat

    Stewart high-flow water pump

    70/30 mix of water/coolant w/water wetter

     

    Exhaust

    Mac equal length shorty headers 1-5/8"

    Bassani Stainless x-pipe w/high flow cats

    Borla Stainless Mufflers

    MAC SS tailpipes

     

    Driveline

    Mcleod clutch w/custom blueprinted pressure plate

    Firewall clutch cable adjuster

    3-position clutch quadrant

    Adjustable cable

    Pro-5.0 short throw shifter w/Steeda tri-ax shift handle

    Aluminum ball shift knob

    Redline synthetic diff gear oil

    Mobil 1 synthetic tranny fluid

    FMS 3.55 rear diff gear

     

    Interior

    Autometer Fuel Pressure/Boost/Oil Pressure/oil Temp/Water Temp Gauges

    Kenwood Stereo

    Pioneer 3-way speakers (front/rear)

    Sony 1000w amp

    Alpine 150w amp (for subwoofer)

    12" JLW3 JL Audio subwoofer (not installed but included)

    Alarm w/pager

    New A/C condenser & drier

    Bullitt pedals

  4. Nice. Heres the place my wife frequents located in Indianapolis...http://www.volutatattoo.com/Voluta_Tattoo%3A_Fine_Art_Tattoo,_Indianapolis/Welcome_to_Voluta_Tattoo%21_Indianapolis_Fine_Artists_and_Tattooists,_Stutz_Artists,_Downtown_Indianapolis.html

     

    And here's her work...http://gallery.mac.com/conanlea#100457/Brandy-20White3&bgcolor=black

     

    Those are some crisp tats.

  5. For those who helped, it was the alternator sending a voltage spike into the PCM causing the CEL. Over-looked it because I just replaced it within the last six months due to the god aweful "nails on a chalk board" sound it made at idle..... Thanks to everyone for their help, I learned a very valuable lesson, never assume.....
  6. Well, two mechanics down and soon to be the Ford Dealership (Planet Ford). If by Monday they cannot fix the problem, they are throwing in the towel.... They have had the car now for almost two weeks and have put some serious time and money into this stupid truck. All of which they better not charge me for.... The have taken the whole timing belt off which is a lot of time in itself twice in hopes that the pick-up on the oil-pump shaft was bad the first time they replaced. They ran the truck with the cover off to see if there was play in the shaft, none, ran true as true can be. They have replaced wires, fixed the harness, ran all their tests they have for the PCM/cam sensor with no avail. So I guess that means that I am seriously screwed... I have a truck that is going to be junked because of something soooo stupid no one can figure out what it is. Anyone have any ideas? I cannot even pay someone to fix this truck let a lot fix it myself....
  7. Very true, no 2.3 engines came with the Syncro. I had the same problem with a ranger at my shop, but I figured that it was due to bad wiring (a short).

    Good luck

    I have been through the wiring twice to check it and even went as far as re-wiring the actual factory connector with ne wire to splice onto the "good" (i.e. non gummed-up/shorted) wire. I have read that some of the refurbished sensors are junk so I have to double check that as well.

  8. yes and no, some engines have no problem running a few teeth of. some will bend a valve. best way is to find TDC and check the marks if there are any on the timing gears.

    There is actually a small plug on the timing cover that you pull and line the dash on the gear to the one on the block. Then reference it to the dash on the balancer if that makes sense.

  9. Recieved the PCM today.... I disconnected the battery cable and replaced the PCM. Drove about 10 miles and decided to fill up with gas. Darn light came back on after a few feet from the gas station. There are absolutly zero driveability issues with the truck now, I can drive without the heat/air on and there is no hesitation... I am leaning more so to a timing belt issue than anything now. I am going to check tomorrow as I had class tonight and just got back. I am still skeptical on the timing belt though, wouldnt that make the truck miss or hesitate if it had jumped a tooth or two?
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