Browning

Previews show a fight breaking out. Where do those Ohio guys post? I'd love to know just how far they take the made up bs that seems so obvious.

I'm actually about 1/2 mile inside Muskingum County. I love it out here, though.

 

 

 

Yes, but I had to give you some shit

 

Cool. I'm in New Lexington. Make your way into Somerset for Anthony's Pizza if you haven't yet. It's great. Nick's and Montell's suck though.

Randy, you just jogged some OG memories.

 

You know how to reach me

 

Mt Perry eh? How do you like Perry County living? I had planned on shooting you a message a while back when I seen you joined a local group of mine on fb lol

This thread makes me glad our nearest neighbor is 100 yards or so away and family to my fiancee. Don't retreat. That kind of neighbor is one that will continue pushing boundaries for as long he lives there.

Any of you used one of these to push air up, instead of sucking it out?

 

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-vacuum-pump-brake-bleeding-kit-22-piece-648744/9150047-P?searchTerm=bleeder#fragment-3

I can't even get any from the front passenger line with the line unbolted from the caliper.

This thing is pissing me off.I can bleed rear passenger fine, can barely get anything out of rear driver side.Passenger front is dry as can be, and driver front bleeds fine.

 

No matter what I do nor how many times I try to bleed rear driver,and front pass, there is no change. Not sure about the rear left but I am wondering if the rubber hose on the front pass is collapsed? I have it soaked going to try and break the nut free just above it to see if there's fluid at that point. Hopefully.

Thank you. I might give that route a try.

When using a soda bottle like that, I assume the hose needs to be submerged in the fluid? Do I just crack open the bleeder, then go inside the car and bump a few times, tighten the bleeder then move to the next, rinse and repeat?

I couldn't get those bleeders on the calipers to budge, then both broke, even after soaking for a couple hours. Got an easy out and snapped it. Good thing though, as I noticed the seals on the caliper looked pretty wore out and she was due for pads anyway. I swung by advance on the way home and picked up a couple remans and pads for it. She should have her car back on the road tomorrow, unless that modulator decides to be an ass and I need to call a shop lol

yea I haven't been able to yet. I assumed there would be at least some difference just with the new MC installed. I'll have to bleed it all tomorrow when I get a helper and these stripped bleeders off. lol

I've checked the rubber lines and none are swelling up when the pedal is pressed, and there'sno fluid on the back of the rear wheels so I wouldn't suspect wheel cylinders. I haven't found any leak at all and I am wondering if the new MC is defective.

Pulled the old one,removed the res., installed it on the new MC and bled it before putting it on the car. Haven't had much chance for bleeding lines yet but still no pedal at all, nor can it be pumped it. To the floor every time. Pouring rain again so I can't try bleeding it out to see if it makes a difference, but even with a bunch or air in the lines shouldn't it still pump and hold pressure?

 

Petal is a lot harder like it should be when pumped with the key off, but it still can be put to the floor.

Thanks. If this rain would die down for a little bit I am going to drive over and see if I can get it replaced without much issue. Doesn't look like it's going to give me any window to work with.

The issue isn't generally if you get air into the ABS unit, it's if you get air into parts of the ABS unit that aren't normally open to the regular fluid flow path. The air can sit in there and eventually get into the 'normal' part of the brake fluid circuit. If you get a bit of air into that part of the ABS unit, you may be able to activate ABS a few times to get the air into a part of the circuit that's in the normal flow path.

 

I worked at an ABS maker doing testing for almost 8 years and we rarely worried about cycling the unit during brake system parts swaps. It's usually only necessary if you are putting a dry ABS unit in or like Scott said, leave it open for a long time. Once our ABS test units were wet we just put screw caps on inlets/outlets when they were out of the car, then put them back in when we needed to test that unit. Even if you didn't bench bleed the air from the master cylinder, it should only introduce air into the 'normal' part of the ABS unit. Bench bleeding the master cylinder probably helps more for the generally bleeding process than anything, just like in a non ABS cars, it's can be a PITA to get the MC to bleed in the car.

 

The in valves are normally open and the fluid normally flows that way. Normally the ABS unit just acts like a brake fluid line for you. Unless it activates then fluid flow through the part of the unit by the out valve, pump, reservoir. This is the part where air can get into that's bad. When you 'cycle' the unit, this is where we are trying to get air out of and fluid into.

 

http://www.wiringdiagrams21.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/AcuraRSXABSModulatorSystemSchematicDiagram.jpg

 

Great info, thank you. I think I can bench bleed another master no problem.

 

One thing I didn't find was, if air does get into the modulator or whatever it is, will it kick a light, or will the pedal just not build? I read on a couple forums that the part of the ABS you don't want to get air into actually sits higher than the master cylinder. I'm not sure yet as I haven't went and looked at it. It's my moms car.

 

I wish I had a bleeder tool, instead of having some one pump the brake while I loosen the bleeder. Perhaps this would be a good time to purchase one.

Its been my experience that as long as the ABS hasn't cycled, you wont get air into it.

 

If you do a good job bench bleeding the master and don't have the system open for very long ypu stand the best chance of not having any issues. I can't say I've specifically done a cavalier but I get away without cycling the abs on most GMs that I do.

 

Now if you had one of those neat reverse bleeders (never tried but I want one) it would keep air from ever getting to the ABS.

 

Thank you both. I'll admit I'm nervous. I really hope I don't have to take it some were after swapping it out to have it bled.

Is there any way from keeping air from getting into the ABS modulator? Tonight is the first I have read about the possibility of needing a scan tool to bleed the lines after changing a master cylinder. Only scan tool I have is a cheap one that I am sure will not work.

 

I've changed MC's on older vehicles that allowed me to use the pump, hold and crack the breeder lose method but apparently that won't suffice?

as a side note to the comment above above using in the garden as well. Do not use pool grade for anything garden related, or in the house for that matter. You only want food grade for that. Pool grade has a high amount of crystalline silica which can be harmful if inhaled, and since this stuff has the consistency of talcum powder, you will be breathing it in no matter how careful you are with applying it.

DE works best on soft bodied bugs. Most likely not going to have the best results with De alone on earwigs. How ever Lowes sells a bag of bug killer that has DE along with some other things in it that should work great, and is safe to apply in the house.

Thing works great. Loaded linux mint on it and it's doing quite well for $15.

I am running dban on it now hopefully it succeeds without error.

I think you found a different model than the one I have here.

 

I just started googling about possibly using it as a chromebook, even that is confusing. If this thing has a cd drive it'd be easy lol

specs said 1GBmax

http://www.microsoftstore.com/store?Action=html&Locale=en_US&SiteID=msusa&pbPage=Help_Win7_usbdvd_dwnTool

 

You can use an .ISO file of any Windows OS you prefer with that utility. The instructions don't change any.

 

This is a much better guide to installing an OS via USB flash.

 

I used a program last year that worked well called Rufus. It allowed me to "burn" an ISO file to a flash drive and then install the OS from the flash drive. I would not recommend going back to XP as Microsoft has cut off all support (I don't think you can even download the old updates any more). If Vista ran on it, then Windows 7 might be an option, but I would check to make sure all the hardware is supported in Windows 7.

 

If you are not tied to Microsoft for anything have you thought about using Linux on it?

 

Thank you guys. I am not sure I can get windows 7 on it with only 1GB of RAM? I don't plan on using this. This was bought with the intention of letting the kids use it for youtube or whatever else. The screen is far too small for me to every enjoy using something like this.

 

I am going to go over those links now and see if I can get it to work. I am hoping this HDD is still good.

Tonight I picked up an HP mini 110 from an older couple for $15. It has the Boot MGR missing error and when I run the HDD test in BIOS is passes every time. Any chance of a HDD passing the test but still being bad? My thoughts now are the OS install is fucked and needs a fresh install. My only problem with that is I have no experience with making a bootable usb nor have to install an OS this way.

 

From googling it appears this little bastard came with XP Home, even though the couple said it had Vista installed. If true, this would explain why I can;t get into any recovery mode at all, right?

 

I would like to download an XP copy and see if I can get this HDD to let me install it. Can any of you fine folks walk me through this like I am 5?