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Nate1647545505

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Posts posted by Nate1647545505

  1. So-there are devices I can plug into the wall-plug an ethernet cable into- and have internet accessible through my wall power outlet? This is interesting.

    Yup, they can have mixed results though depending on the house wiring,breakers, etc. If you go this route, might want to get a set from somewhere that you can easily return if it doesn't work out. When they work, they work decently well - not fast - but good for a single connection.

     

    Nate on your suggestion to disable Cable provider Wifi- the APs would be "over powerline" then correct? Then- the AP's themselves would be the Wifi? Also, if do some sort of over powerline set up (assuming this is how it works) could i theoretically place my desktop in any room that has a plug, and have viable wired internet access?

    I would physically run cabling (in place of using ethernet over powerline adapters) to the new APs. Despite the advertised speed of the powerline adapters, they are generally slow compared to newer WiFi protocols. Trying to backhaul all of the connections from an access point through the power line would be less than ideal. You'll have a solid connection with decent latency, but the pipe is significantly smaller and you could run into issues from that aspect. Again, they can be a pain to setup a pair depending on the house wiring so you might want to test before moving forward.

  2. I'm a huge fan of Ubiquiti products, https://www.ubnt.com/, have used them in several non-profit and educational installs as well as my own home. Here are some thoughts out loud:

     

    Voice is one of the toughest forms of traffic to transport across networks, it's time sensitive, can't really be buffered, and there is no recovery from dropped data. That being said, even if you're VPN'ed into your company, there's still a chance that latency or dropped packets can be happening at any point along the path of the connection - that very well could be outside of your connection and control.

     

    Your router is important, but most modern name brand routers can keep up with the traffic flow, basic NATing/firewall, etc. The router is mainly enabling you to get online and share your ISP's connection throughout your home. The Wifi component of that is just allowing you to share it out over a different medium.

     

    Usually the issue is Wi-Fi related, whether your neighbors are crowding the frequency spectrum or the Tx and RX strength is just not strong enough.

     

    Wireless to Wireless relays can be latency monsters. The latency from the radio hops can be significant and not an ideal situation for VOIP.

     

    Some suggestions:

     

    Disable WiFi on cable provider router, wire in an AP or two.

     

    Keep WiFi enabled on cable provider router, use an Ethernet over Powerline adapter to the distant device. Keep in mind you don't need a lot of throughput for a VOIP phone, more a solid connection that doesn't drop or suffer from latency spikes.

  3. All that Voodoo

     

    Still gets smoked by some LS almost Junkyard dinosaur junk.

     

    In this case, the LS has a 1.8L advantage, that's a lot more air to work with. On paper, the 5.2 is incredibly impressive - in terms of the overall VE the motor achieves and employing every trick in the book to reduce losses. The knock resistance of the chamber seems to be nearly incredible as well. Fathouse Fab, a local company here in Indy, is making some decent power on a set of GT3582s.

     

    Barth-GT350-1143hp.jpg

  4. Im terrified of Donald Trump, and will buy a Gun to defend myself/this country if he gets Elected President.

     

    http://i.imgur.com/vtY5NXC.jpg

     

    You'll need a matching hat to contain all of that closet patriotism.

  5. I don't like fuel cut off....because when I set it up on my S10 for the "abuse limiter" at 3,500 activate 3,450 resume it would NOT hold the rpm like I wanted and at WOT it was reaching 5,000rpm....Violently shaking the whole truck...but still revved past the set limit.

    I dunno maybe I had a leaking injector or something...

     

    IMO the safest and best way to get launch control is deffinitly Electronic throttle body..

    Super easy to set it up...and safe because it literally just keep the throttle blade from opening all the way at a set rpm.

     

    What system was controlling the engine?

  6. I decided to see if my SAE membership was still active and found by some strange reason, it is. If you look up http://papers.sae.org/942475 "Traction Control for a Formula 1 Race Car: Conceptual Design, Algorithm Development, and Calibration Methodology" , Bosch and Chrysler used a rotating fuel cut to manage torque reduction. I know it doesn't exactly apply to the situation at hand but still has some relevancy.
  7. Hi Chris,

     

    Just my .02 - I think a fair statement would be, "why not both?" Keep in mind OE's have to worry about emissions, or melting emission control systems. This is kind of an interesting dilemma - you wan't RPM's up to have torque available for the launch but not to much to completely overcome the available traction.

  8. I am aware of the shit I'm about to catch for discussing this on CR, but worth the feedback in my opinion...

     

    I'm eyeing the Forester XT to replace the CRV. I didn't find any scheduled maintenance in the owner's manual for internal components of the CVT (I still don't trust the rubber bands) but what did peak my interest was the jump in price of a replacement CVT. I don't plan to do any pulling - just something to cart bodies around without getting stuck at whatever test range I'm sent to.

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