Jonan1647545505

Latest update: Drove the car with no problems for a couple of days... p1259 Vtec Malfunction. Took off the Vtec manifold(?) that houses the vtec solenoid and the vtec oil pressure switch, filter screen was clean. Could drive the car if you accelerated slower and kept it under 3k rpm with no problems. If you tried to accelerate quickly the car would buck pretty bad. Drove the car easy for about a week, took off the vtec manifold andthe screen filter had some sludge, cleaned, reinstalled, did an oil change. Drove the car and checked the vtec manifold sceen and it was clean, still had 1259 code and CEL. Replaced vtec manifold with Honda part. Light went away for 3 weeks and vtec was back! Decided safe to drive to Ohio to visit the family. Changed oil before we left just because. After 3hrs of driving CEL is back on and with code 1259... We got a hotel room, went to dinner and drank some tequila. Next day drove back to NC and drank some more tequila. Just hooked up an oil pressure gauge. Idle is right where it should be once warm ~10-15psi. However at 3k rpm for vtec pressure must be a min of 50psi, I have ~40psi... I'm sure most of all the work I've done has be a result of a combination of many factors but I'm basically done with this car. My question for everyone: will it be ok to drive the car without adequate oil pressure to activate the vtec system with the CEL on, since from what I understand about the 1259 code is that the system is disabled and therefore the cam wont engage to affect the valve timing. OR do I need to replace the oil pump?

SOLD

it would already be sold if it were 4x4.... or manual trans... or larger cab...

I need to sell this truck! Diesel is killing my paycheck right now... I can find anyone that wants to buy it, not even any low ballers? http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108072 A local guy just offered: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/3415927270.html 04 Cadillac CTS Sigma 3.6l Sigma = cheap unleaded heated seats blah blah blah 238k miles Looks really nice has new tires but has 238k miles Should I do it? diesel is currently 3.98 hear and unleaded is 3.19. the CL ad says the Cadi is getting 28mpg the Truck costs 22cents/ mile and the cadi supposedly does 11cents/mile so it costs 50% less in fuel but will the cadi keep going like a diesel would? Will trade truck for 4dr civic, accord, corrola, camry, etc Opinions/thoughs/ideas?

bump

bump

Ok so the head has come off, valve guides/seals replaced, machine shop said the exhaust side guides and seals were toast. $301 head job. the head is back in and I'm almost done putting her back together... so far its been about 6months and $1500 in parts(only paid ~$150 in labor for cat install and diag a couple times...) Still no idea what caused it... its looking like the egr valve not throwing a code to alert me to the problem until it was too late... Its gonna be a "brand new" car when its back together tho!!

1985 Mercedes Benz 300D 5 cylinder Turbo Diesel engine 227k miles Automatic Transmission White exterior with blue interior Original dash is cracked but has a really nice dash cover not one of those cheap fuzzy ones Heat and AC work good Power Windows and Sunroof (2 of the windows need motors replaced front pas and rear driver) Everything works other than cruise control and the 2 windows Gets about 20-25mpg No problems cruising at highway speeds Good tires Replaced brake master cylinder and ac compressor with new receiver/drier and expansion valve over the summer 12/4 Just replaced both front brake calipers, seals were leaking Great candidate for WVO, grease car, biodiesel, these are great engines with simple mechanical fuel systems for conversions Only one spot of rust on driver side rear wheel well towards the bottom $1700 + Gas money Car is in NC but will deliver to Ohio for asking price http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/benz/Mercedes.jpg http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/benz/100_0116.jpg http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/benz/100_0113.jpg

1995 2500 Dodge Ram 12 valve Turbo Diesel Cummins 223k miles Automatic Transmission with overdrive shifts good and tows well, Ive never towed more than 6000lbs, couldnt even tell it was back there. according to prev owner records trans was replaced with rebuilt jasper trans around 170k 2wd Tires will need replaced soon, Load Range E Tires Stops well, if you plan to haul alot I would recommend going through them to be safe Has Rails and 7way electric for 5th wheel in bed, no 5th wheel mount or what ever Rear air bags for level hauling SLT Larime Edition 7Way trailer plug with Reese Brake controller Towing Hitch Power Windows locks and driver seat, all work, the locks need the switches cleaned or replaced as they only work sometimes Cruise control works great AC has a leak that needs fixed, recharge only lasted 3days Heat works good Seats in excellent condition have Dodge Ram Covers for all seats, pretty sure theyve been covered most of its life Headliner sag and carpet has stains Starts up no matter how cold it is out or if its plugged in overnight, tho it does like being plugged in Great work truck Aluminum running boards $4000 Truck in currently in NC but will deliver to Ohio for the asking price of $4000 http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/0206121738.jpg

well its burning oil now and all 4 plugs are completely covered in carbon. doing compression test and leak down today... i hope my valves are ok.... and further more my rings.... Compression is excellent 195-200psi on all four Checking the PCV valve tomorrow.

UPDATE: P0420 Catalyst deficiency. Cat came apart. Mechanic installed new one. Runs good until warm smokey, smells like gun powder/carbon. No new codes yet...

not really sure. one mechanic said it happens a lot with this year engine. it always ran great never a single problem before this and i always got 35-39mpg. dropped to about ~30, had lack of power and ran inconsistently rough. egr was stuck and had carbon build up but had no CEL codes for egr system just the random misfire codes.? all is well now tho

ok for anyone that care to know, my random misfire was due to clogged EGR passages. EGR ports on this engine are in a 1.5-2" plate between the head and the intake manifold. Coolant had to be drained everything unhooked took a few hours to get it out, the bolts/nuts that hold the mani on are not easily accessible... here are some pics: http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/clogged.jpg Clogged pretty good http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/side1c.jpg cyl 4 & 3 http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/side2c.jpg cyl 2 & 1 http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/cleaned.jpg Cleaned, notice all the carbon! http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/side1.jpg cyl 4 & 3 http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/side2.jpg cyl 2 & 1 took only a few mins to clean used carb cleaner and a flat blade screwdriver, but now no more CEL codes and smooth operation! i also replaced the EGR valve since it was stuck, tho i didnt have any EGR codes?? hope this helps someone who is super stumped with random misfires!!

yep the car had sat for a week or 2 so the temp was well below 100degrees. found tdc on #1 and rotated the engine all the way around stopping at each cyl in firing order and confirmed timing was correct, i repeated this twice just to be sure before putting it all back together. there was a woodruff key in the timing cover that had assumably come from when i first did the tbelt at 120k (now at 170k) a few years back. I will quadruple check the vavles but i am very confident that the vavles are adjusted properly. I found a salvage yard that has a couple heads for 250$ea. thats more than i paid for an engine for my last civic, tho it was a 90 dx

got the car running again, apparently timing jumped 2 teeth retimed, new tbelt, inspected water pump and tensioner, rechecked valve clearances, replaced #2 injector, rechecked compression (within spec), also check coil packs by having my girl hold the engine at 2krpms and unplugging each coil pack all dropped to ~1600rpms.... runs just fine at idle, still has random misfire on #2 while moving only at a constant speed or accel. if the #2 valves were damaged wouldnt the misfire be constant?? im scheduled at a local shop next week for diagnosis...