Jonan1647545505

Latest update: Drove the car with no problems for a couple of days... p1259 Vtec Malfunction. Took off the Vtec manifold(?) that houses the vtec solenoid and the vtec oil pressure switch, filter screen was clean. Could drive the car if you accelerated slower and kept it under 3k rpm with no problems. If you tried to accelerate quickly the car would buck pretty bad. Drove the car easy for about a week, took off the vtec manifold andthe screen filter had some sludge, cleaned, reinstalled, did an oil change. Drove the car and checked the vtec manifold sceen and it was clean, still had 1259 code and CEL. Replaced vtec manifold with Honda part. Light went away for 3 weeks and vtec was back! Decided safe to drive to Ohio to visit the family. Changed oil before we left just because. After 3hrs of driving CEL is back on and with code 1259... We got a hotel room, went to dinner and drank some tequila. Next day drove back to NC and drank some more tequila. Just hooked up an oil pressure gauge. Idle is right where it should be once warm ~10-15psi. However at 3k rpm for vtec pressure must be a min of 50psi, I have ~40psi...

I'm sure most of all the work I've done has be a result of a combination of many factors but I'm basically done with this car. My question for everyone: will it be ok to drive the car without adequate oil pressure to activate the vtec system with the CEL on, since from what I understand about the 1259 code is that the system is disabled and therefore the cam wont engage to affect the valve timing. OR do I need to replace the oil pump?

SOLD

LOL talking KBB "fair" for a car with 238k on it. Shit is rough at best.

 

Save the truck and re-post it when we get our first snow, some wannabe businessmanchild will pick it up to plow

 

it would already be sold if it were 4x4.... or manual trans... or larger cab...

I need to sell this truck! Diesel is killing my paycheck right now...

I can find anyone that wants to buy it, not even any low ballers?

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108072

A local guy just offered: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/3415927270.html

04 Cadillac CTS Sigma 3.6l Sigma = cheap unleaded heated seats blah blah blah 238k miles

Looks really nice has new tires but has 238k miles

Should I do it?

diesel is currently 3.98 hear and unleaded is 3.19. the CL ad says the Cadi is getting 28mpg

the Truck costs 22cents/ mile and the cadi supposedly does 11cents/mile so it costs 50% less in fuel but will the cadi keep going like a diesel would?

Will trade truck for 4dr civic, accord, corrola, camry, etc

Opinions/thoughs/ideas?

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Ok so the head has come off, valve guides/seals replaced, machine shop said the exhaust side guides and seals were toast. $301 head job. the head is back in and I'm almost done putting her back together... so far its been about 6months and $1500 in parts(only paid ~$150 in labor for cat install and diag a couple times...) Still no idea what caused it... its looking like the egr valve not throwing a code to alert me to the problem until it was too late... Its gonna be a "brand new" car when its back together tho!!

1985 Mercedes Benz 300D

5 cylinder Turbo Diesel engine

227k miles

Automatic Transmission

White exterior with blue interior

Original dash is cracked but has a really nice dash cover not one of those cheap fuzzy ones

Heat and AC work good

Power Windows and Sunroof (2 of the windows need motors replaced front pas and rear driver)

Everything works other than cruise control and the 2 windows

Gets about 20-25mpg

No problems cruising at highway speeds

Good tires

Replaced brake master cylinder and ac compressor with new receiver/drier and expansion valve over the summer

12/4 Just replaced both front brake calipers, seals were leaking

Great candidate for WVO, grease car, biodiesel, these are great engines with simple mechanical fuel systems for conversions

Only one spot of rust on driver side rear wheel well towards the bottom

$1700 + Gas money

Car is in NC but will deliver to Ohio for asking price

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/benz/Mercedes.jpg

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/benz/100_0116.jpg

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/benz/100_0113.jpg

1995 2500 Dodge Ram

12 valve Turbo Diesel Cummins

223k miles

Automatic Transmission with overdrive shifts good and tows well, Ive never towed more than 6000lbs, couldnt even tell it was back there. according to prev owner records trans was replaced with rebuilt jasper trans around 170k

2wd

Tires will need replaced soon, Load Range E Tires

Stops well, if you plan to haul alot I would recommend going through them to be safe

Has Rails and 7way electric for 5th wheel in bed, no 5th wheel mount or what ever

Rear air bags for level hauling

SLT Larime Edition

7Way trailer plug with Reese Brake controller

Towing Hitch

Power Windows locks and driver seat, all work, the locks need the switches cleaned or replaced as they only work sometimes

Cruise control works great

AC has a leak that needs fixed, recharge only lasted 3days

Heat works good

Seats in excellent condition have Dodge Ram Covers for all seats, pretty sure theyve been covered most of its life

Headliner sag and carpet has stains

Starts up no matter how cold it is out or if its plugged in overnight, tho it does like being plugged in

Great work truck

Aluminum running boards

$4000

Truck in currently in NC but will deliver to Ohio for the asking price of $4000

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/0206121738.jpg

well its burning oil now and all 4 plugs are completely covered in carbon. doing compression test and leak down today... i hope my valves are ok.... and further more my rings....

 

Compression is excellent 195-200psi on all four Checking the PCV valve tomorrow.

UPDATE: P0420 Catalyst deficiency. Cat came apart. Mechanic installed new one. Runs good until warm smokey, smells like gun powder/carbon. No new codes yet...

not really sure. one mechanic said it happens a lot with this year engine.

it always ran great never a single problem before this and i always got 35-39mpg. dropped to about ~30, had lack of power and ran inconsistently rough.

egr was stuck and had carbon build up but had no CEL codes for egr system just the random misfire codes.? all is well now tho

ok for anyone that care to know, my random misfire was due to clogged EGR passages.

EGR ports on this engine are in a 1.5-2" plate between the head and the intake manifold.

Coolant had to be drained everything unhooked took a few hours to get it out, the bolts/nuts that hold the mani on are not easily accessible...

here are some pics:

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/clogged.jpg

Clogged pretty good

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/side1c.jpg

cyl 4 & 3

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/side2c.jpg

cyl 2 & 1

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/cleaned.jpg

Cleaned, notice all the carbon!

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/side1.jpg

cyl 4 & 3

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/side2.jpg

cyl 2 & 1

 

took only a few mins to clean used carb cleaner and a flat blade screwdriver, but now no more CEL codes and smooth operation!

i also replaced the EGR valve since it was stuck, tho i didnt have any EGR codes??

hope this helps someone who is super stumped with random misfires!!

was the engine temp below 100 degrees when you adjusted the valves? when you did the adjustment make sure the engine was on TDC for #1, then turn and do #3, turn again to do #4 and final turn for #2 in that order.

 

I had a Honda Element that had a similar misfire on #3 only, after running the diagnostic checks it pointed towards a valve adjustment, after the adjustment misfire was gone.

 

Now you said the timing was off 2 teeth? how did that happen? if so there's a chance you may have a bent valve in that cylinder, but I would retrace your steps with the valve adjustment

 

yep the car had sat for a week or 2 so the temp was well below 100degrees.

found tdc on #1 and rotated the engine all the way around stopping at each cyl in firing order and confirmed timing was correct, i repeated this twice just to be sure before putting it all back together.

 

there was a woodruff key in the timing cover that had assumably come from when i first did the tbelt at 120k (now at 170k) a few years back. I will quadruple check the vavles but i am very confident that the vavles are adjusted properly. I found a salvage yard that has a couple heads for 250$ea. thats more than i paid for an engine for my last civic, tho it was a 90 dx

got the car running again, apparently timing jumped 2 teeth

retimed, new tbelt, inspected water pump and tensioner, rechecked valve clearances, replaced #2 injector, rechecked compression (within spec), also check coil packs by having my girl hold the engine at 2krpms and unplugging each coil pack all dropped to ~1600rpms....

runs just fine at idle, still has random misfire on #2 while moving only at a constant speed or accel.

if the #2 valves were damaged wouldnt the misfire be constant??

im scheduled at a local shop next week for diagnosis...

update: Car has been sitting for about month now. it left me stranded on the way to work one day... it died like i was out of gas, so i put a gallon in and still wouldnt start back up, had it towed home and has sat ever since.

 

I can hear the fuel pump run when i turn the key on and it sounds right, but still wont start. I read that a faulty fuel pressure regulator, in the tank, causes random missfires, fouls plugs, decreased power and fuel economy. I just lost my job and cannot afford to throw money at it or pay a shop, ive got plenty of time to tinker tho.

 

i also tested the crank position sensor and its with in specs.

 

any input would appreciated.

UPDATE:

Moved injectors around....now only a misfire on cyl 2... wtf?

Also did a hot and cold resistance test on injectors, all were the same and within Honda specs.

Completed a compression test cyl 1&2 @ 130psi cyl 3&4 @ 122psi.

I do not have the tools to complete a leak down test.

So whats next?

you could try having the fuel injectors cleaned, but with the computer codes it sounds like a spark issue. have you tried putting the spark plugs on the coil then setting them on the valve cover (or something metal anyhow) then having a friend turn the engine over to see if you get good spark? does each coil have a seperate fuse or relay or something? may be a place to start.

 

this civic has coils literally on each spark plug. I have not checked the actual spark yet.

I will also try moving the injectors to see if the mis moves, thats probably what try next and change the fuel filter while the pressure is off.

 

Ive also read online that a mis fire like this may be a head gasket leak...

My 02 Honda Civic Ex 1.7 sohc vtec, completely stock, recently developed a misfire on cyl 2 & 3 only.

CEL came on and gave codes

0300 - random mis detected

0302 - mis cyl 2

0303 - mis cyl 3

1456 - Evap control system leakage (fuel tank system) Tighted gas cap and that code is GONE now, it usually comes on after 4+hrs of driving after a refuel tho

1298 - ELD(Electronic Load Detector) High voltage, Common problem with this generation Civic, ~$35 part from Honda. Honda said this will not cause misfire problems as it is related to the charging system

 

I changed my timing belt at 120k, Im now at 167k.

Since the misfires occurred I have replaced spark plugs with OEM NGKs since they were white ashy looking, did a full valve adjustment, all the exhaust valves were out of adjustment and the only the left intake valve was too tight on every cyl (thought that was odd), I adjusted all valves to spec tho. And now it idles smoother and quieter and only took about 3hrs with a lunch break Also moved the coils around to see if the mis followed the coil which it didnt... Next I will replace the fuel filter since its never been done.

 

The mis happens in every gear, speed, rpm while maintaining a constant speed, my commute is ~50mins. Almost never misfires while idling and never during quick acceleration. Fuel pump? is there a fuel pressure regulator/sensor that could be at fault?

 

Any additional advice would be appreciated I dont want to throw too much money at it...

$7 plugs + $8 feeler gauge + $5 taco bell = $20 not bad so far

Good looking trailer...I saw you hauling this on Westerville road yesterday.

 

yep. paper tags expired, got it registered yesterday

800?

im MOVING. trailer + motorcycle + tools = 1780lbs which is almost 400lbs over and doesnt include my dresser, tv, bed, clothes and other random shit that im packing in the car and/or trailer. this is a stout trailer, it simply doesnt meet my current need to move all my shit in one trip.

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So i just bought this enclosed trailer, put new hinges on the ramp and got it weighed to get it registered only to find out it weighs 1180lbs...

Im moving to NC. Bought trailer in NC while house hunting, just brought back to get my bike and stuff.

My Honda Elements towing capacity is 1500lbs...

Trailer 1180lbs + CBR ~400lbs + tool box and tools ~200lbs + etc = damnit

so i need to sell it and get a much lighter one like around 8-900lbs.

anyway...

1989

6wx8Lx5.5h

with a ramp with new hinges(when i bought it 1.5weeks ago all the hinges were about to fall off)

13" wheels with spare

4 D-rings in floor, a few eye hooks through out

shelf and 2 small racks

Black with white stripe

Flat-4 light connection, All lights work

Wheeled tongue crank

Pulls Great!

Location Sunbury, OH

$800

 

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/5x8side.jpg

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/5x8rear.jpg

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj227/elfboy98/5x8open.jpg

bump for last day to schedule something.