rb26deet32

Still available? I need a spare computer at the shop and this thing is damn near the exact build I did for my main computer. Thanks!

I've been wanting to do one of those for years. How is the body and any idea what he's asking? The 98 mustang im probably getting either way since I'm paying less than scrap cost. But I've always wanted to bull an e36. Thanks for all the posts!

A few years ago maybe. But for now I'm just looking for something to build to be fast, not ironically fast lol. Thanks though. QUOTE=OJdidit1738;1917443]I have an 88 LX Convertible Body, It is pretty much just a shell at this point. Strut tower on drivers side has some rust, front of floors has some rust. Torque boxes are great. No front suspension, or rear, or interior. I was going to do what you have planned but have gone a different route. If your interested in a convertible let me know. I'll have to pass on that one. I've never liked convertibles and I might have already locked in a car if I go with a mustang. A 98 gt. But we'll see.

Are you selling as is or did you pull the motor/trans at some point? Nice looking car, very clean. Thanks.

What year, original na or tt, what rear end and auto or manual from the factory? Thanks!

That sounds like a great roller but is way out of my price range. I'm looking for something to throw together quickly on a budget and then add to it over the winter. On that all I'd really have is engine choice. Thanks!

I'm not too sure. As of what I've been doing I can accurately say to the 0.001" what my oil clearances are. But I'm trying to get to the 0.0001-0.0005". In reality it probably doesn't make a whole lot of difference. I just hate not having the ten thousandths lines on my mic. Side note, I just picked up a 3/8 techangle. So I can finally get rid of my click style torque wrench and angle adapter.

I just did a quick search for inside mics and found tons of them. I'm wondering if we are talking about the same thing or not. I use this right now for inside diameter https://www.amazon.com/Fowler-Warranty-52-646-400-Measuring-Graduation/dp/B000XQ2T1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488847213&sr=8-1&keywords=fowler+dial+bore+gauge when I searched for ID Mics I found dial bore gauges and actual ID Mics like this https://www.zoro.com/starrett-inside-groove-micrometer-05-to-15-in-701a/i/G4780413/?gclid=CjwKEAiArvTFBRCLq5-7-MSJ0jMSJABHBvp0J1ucI1gceanR5mDBaUXMhXTLQE_bb1IbtEkhi-Fi5xoCcujw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds I just want to make sure we are on the same page because I don't want to make a mistake and buy something that might be considered inaccurate even if it's worked so far. Thanks!

Oh I see what you mean. I wasn't sure if you were meaning ID for actual machining or not. I've been using my current mic setup to zero out my dial bore gauge. It's not the most accurate way to do it but it's been working so far. I guess the next logical step would be to get an ID mic. My only question is how much of a difference would you say there is? I've never used one so I honestly don't know. The way I do it I'm down to the 0.0005-0.001" but it does depend on tool calibration and is also figured out by measuring with a couple different tools and doing some basic math versus doing what you say and measuring with one tool that is actually designed to measure a certain component. The other issue would be measuring journal diameter on certain blocks with everything torque down. I don't see how an ID mic would fit. I'll have to look into it for sure because I'm trying to go to the next level with my engine building and not have any doubts about anything. Thanks for the feedback!

Great, thanks! I couldn't agree more about the calibration but what would be the purpose of the ID mics? I'm only doing engine building. I wouldn't be doing the actual machining. I just want to be able to more accurately blue print and build blocks. Lmk what you mean though, I'm always up to learn new things! Thanks, Brent

Hello, I'm looking to upgrade my engine building tools. I'm looking for the following. -Digital 3/8 techangle or mac 5-100 ftlbs -Dial bore gauge 0.0001 -1-4" micrometer 0.0001" -Dial indicator (0.0001-0.0005) Everything I have been using is working but I hate only being accurate to the 1,000th of an inch. On some builds lately it's been stressing me out with the amount of money that has been going into them. If you have all or anything listed and are looking to sell just hit me up. (614) 625-7296. Thanks, Brent

Hey, I'm looking to do a build for this summer. I have a k24 and a 6.0 to build for this summer so whatever I find first is what I'll build first. If you have a Honda or anything you can easily ls swap lmk. Here are a few examples. -eg/ek civic -dc integra -fox body -sn95 -f body -rx7 I'm wanting a clean roller, no rust unless you're willing to sell for stupid cheap. Going to cage and tub if I go lsx. For the Honda I'm tube framing the front end so I only really care about the back quarters. Thanks!

Sold!

Ok, np. Is the pedal a real variable pedal or more like an on, off, 50% pedal? And have you used it much? I'm trying to figure out if it's something that would be able to weld for a few hours at a time. Thanks!

I changed it and even changed the link but forgot to change it in the post lol. It's changed now