shm21284

oh shit. no good.

why does work have to find out

oh, that cop was definately keeping criminals off the streets when she did that.

what the gayness? an underage ticket a week before your 21st? Fucking cops... Unless you were being outrageous.

what did you do

Great work! Are you an attorney?

+1 i had a custom rad quoted and it was right around 500, a couple years ago. Check out AFCO racing radiators, I bought one for my RX-7 (it was made for a chevy nova) when I did a v-mount. It is double pass and I had to re-weld the inlet and outlets for it to work. It was like $189 and it works awesome. Its also ultra light. They make all sorts of sizes and styles, and with a hack saw and some aluminum tubing, you will probably get what you want. There are plenty of welders in the area that can weld it for you, including me, and you should be able to do it for well under $300.

Jordan, how'd you do?

I'd run it, but what the fuck do I know

Vacuum leaks could be possible. Buy a can of starting fluid and spray it anywhere (behind the throttle body) that there could be a vacuum leak. If the idle changes (usually will either smooth out or idle will rise in RPM), then you've found your leak.

Most rotary people know that once the knock sensor picks up any detectable level of knock, its all over for the engine. Good luck tuning via knock only on a rotary. EDIT: the guy who claimed knock isn't that much value has a 2000 civic si, not a rotary. What value are you adding to this thread?

Do some searching on the intarwebz, there are lots of diesel shops that offer turbo remanufacturing services. I think Precision Turbo actually does this as well, but they are a little more pricey than most. Usually around $300 last I checked (a couple years ago).

Knock is definately of value, but not absolutely necessary when tuning an engine. If at all possible, use it. Sounds like mr. coreymdean is someone who doesn't like change, like the old guys who hate wideband O2 sensors and would rather read spark plugs.

Wow, I don't think I've read anything more ignorant in the recent past. Give facts, not opinions described with childish wording.

Defined Autoworks in Pataskala, PM FD20NA

its too fun doing it not to do it. confuzzed?

Delete this post

That's how i drove my civic. Too fun not to.

Save the money, speed 3 allows you the option of tuning it or purchasing an additional project car. Although, the evo or sti is a more solid platform for modifying, and 4wd does wonders in the snow. The speed3's traction control is pretty good, so it can get you around, esp with proper snow tires, but nothing eats snow like 4wd

I have a 93 civic dx, i usually got around 31-34 in the city and anywhere from 34-42 on the highway, depending on how i fast i drove it, how close i tailgated, etc. I checked fuel economy on every tank in the 80k miles i've owned it. I would say my all time average for freeway is 36-37. Once, I got freakishly good gas milage when i tailgated a semi truck from columbus to latrobe and back, going 55 the whole way, and literally 7-10 feet off his bumper, but if i actually say the number, everyone will tell me to get lost.

You are 100% correct. Ethanol sucks for cold start in low temp applications. It does not like to atomize and tends to puddle. However, E85 is like cheap race gas, and if the car you use is not your DD, then E85 is certainly the way to go. Lower intake temps (most likely wouldn't even need an intercooler), high octane rating, and about 1/2 price when compared to race gas, you end up on top. My next big project is going to be an E85 conversion and recalibration.

KNOCK SENSOR??? how could I forget. How many people actually do this? I have a hard time believing E30 won't cause an engine to knock on an E0 calibration.

I wouldn't trust it unless it came from an engineering source, or someone with YEARS of experience. How do they know for sure its not knocking?? Just by listening to it? Engines are not that primitive anymore... You CAN simply use your existing tune and modify the size of your injectors. I recently read an SAE paper on a study of E85; they did just that. You can't just scale them up by 30%, though, you have to calculate the amount that the stoich is changed. Example: E85 requires ~40% more fuel and is (obviously) 85% ethanol. Ethanol's stoichiometric ratio is roughly 9.0:1, gasoline is roughly 14.7:1. You will need about 63% more fuel when running pure ethanol. In your E30 case, your stoich will be close to 12.99:1, which will require about 12% more fuel.

? How will your intercooler condensing from ethanol's higher (than gasoline) latent heat vaporization cause knock?

It WILL change your stoich, and you are only harming your engine by causing it to run lean by attempting to raise the octane rating. For example, a friend's engine was calibrated on pure gasoline (E0) for a target afr of 11.5. After he moved to michigan, where E10 is used everywhere, the afr, when put into gasoline terms, is 12.6. This is with only a 10% ethanol content. 30% would probably be very bad.