darkstarsinner

I'm still running along the same lines. Fully gutted, wire tuck from bay to ass end, a few custom carbon fiber interior parts to aid in the tuck, c/f hood, c/f hatch, fully built and boosted LS, Quaife LSD, 17x9" rims, JDM headlights and some other odds and ends.

I'm using it on another forum, but I'm gonna add it here. I found a site called pixel car and the cars look like these but it's not excepting new members. Hmmm.

Lol thanks. By the way I stole your sig, hope you don't mind. Where did you get it?

Thanks for the manuals link. The copy I've been using hasn't been completely correct. But I am keeping the LS block, just getting it sleeved and doing a complete internal rebuild. Raising the CR and dumping the boost. Should be interesting.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Integra%20Build/SL732480.jpg I think 17x9's are in order. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/SL732479.jpg

A couple guys I used to work with brought in homemade Jerky all the time. Believe it or not fish is really good as Jerky too. Walleye or Perch I believe. As for the rest of the Jerky I have had everything except elk, ostrich, and gator. But I'd be down to try anything but the gator. I'm a reptile fan and have seen what they do to those guys at gator farms. Absolutely horrible. And I really like the Jack Links tenders. I open a bag and sit back and watch sasquatch beat the hell out of people.

PM'd

The big thing about it is to cool your charges. I'll be running the meth with a C02 kit. The c02 kit alone drops the intake temp about 30 deg. I want to run high boost on 9.5:1 CR so cool is a must. C02 is cheap and so is the Meth mix. Oh and I do like the idea of hiding it in the trunk. But I'm shaving the cargo bay and not so sure I want to put it there. But you don't really have to worry about the physical temp of the methanol mix. You actually get the temperature change from the chemical aspect.

That's actually what was suggested on another forum. Not a bad idea. But I think the actual reservoir is going. I have AEM methanol kits in stock, so I think I'm going to swap it out and mod it to use the fluid level sensor.

I suppose I should have mentioned that. No the Integra will NOT see any snow. And just a few things off of that list Fcus, I deleted ABS, removed the factory seatbelts, and the car didn't come with aribags... 3 for 5's not bad I'll probably only whined up being able to take it out 2-3 times a week on my solo drives (removed the rear seats, I have two messy children) So unless I get caught by a surprise rain I'm not to worried about that. I suppose I'm probably just going to delete it. I'll use the fluid level sensor for the spray kit. Thanks for your input guys!!!

The Integra will see some track time, but will be daily driven as well. One of my main concerns with it is that it sits in the way of what will be the intercooler piping. One suggested remedy comes from a Civic owner who uses RainX. He says he doesn't have any issues with his setup. And I'm really not to excited to drill holes in my hood. Very nice DB1 by the way. A guy in Florida just parted out a really clean shell for no reason. Another one bites the dust.

Should I delete the windshield washer fluid? Yes I am keeping the wipers (I'm not an idiot) but I was actually thinking of a water/methanol kit and that spot would work pretty well. Also I believe I will have to drill holes in my Seibon hood for the nozzles. Not quite sure as the hood is still wrapped up nice and safe in the box. Opinions would be nice.

It's been a while since I checked in but Holey Hell have you made some progress. She looks great. I can't wait to get mine painted so I can start adding and fitting in parts. Absolutely beautiful. On a side note I started my own parts store (DarkStar Tuning). And a local shop I supply parts to is authorized with Torco so if you need anything feel free to ask. Keep up the great work man. Uber impressed!!!

Are you using the Helms or the Haynes? The Haynes in my experience are the ones always fucked up. The Helms was actually pretty direct, and a lot of the plugs I already knew matched up with the diagrams. But for the Integras sake let's hope its accurate. If this harness fails it's getting stripped and rigged with a universal. Which means track use only.

Thanks man. I have to admit I was pretty timid to begin with. But with the trusty Helms manual it's not so bad. I'll be starting on the front harness in a couple of days though... We'll see how that goes.

EDIT: The Helms Manual can be downloaded here: http://rapidshare.com/files/397131066/Ab0VE.Honda_Integra_93_Service_Manual.zip.html If at some point you are unable to download this file, please contact me and I will re-upload it. Begin Thread: Okay so the idea of a typical wire tuck is simple. You cut a few wires, re-run some others, make sure everything is nice and hidden and that's it. But what if you have to seriously hide those wires? Or if your old harness was cut and spliced so many times it's just a clusterfuk plane and simple? You rebuild it. Eliminating what's not needed and make proper extensions where they have to be. Because I have eliminated the ABS, Power Steering, Automatic seatbelts and a few other odds and ends along with needing to tuck the back half other cargo areas wiring, I figured it was time for a rebuild. So I'm going to take you through the process of the rebuild. First a pic of a FEW of the required tools... http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-08012022.jpg Now the important thing to keep in mind is to bundle and mark each corresponding section of wiring as you remove them. This will help you a lot in the long run so that you're not looking at a huge mess of tangled wires. This is what it will look like if you don't... http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-08012005.jpg Fortunately I did as such. This will allow me to sort through everything as needed, and to help with the elimination of the no longer needed wires. Front harness... http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-08013757.jpg Drivers side and passengers side (connected to rear harness and contains the system wiring for your power windows and locks is you have them)... http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-08012653.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-08012643.jpg 20100608: Rear harness deloomed. I left a few sections of the harness in tact to help prevent everything from becoming tangled. It is also helpful so that it is easier to navigate the harness to find plugs, and to give an idea of where the section was originally placed. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-08220015.jpg Not wanting to wait for tomorrow I busted out the downloaded Helms. I taped off all of the plugs on the rear harness that are being deleted. All in all there are about 14 plugs totaling about 80 or so wires. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-09020718.jpg A reason for leaving some of the factory tape in tact. Not only does it help in keep the original shape of the harness for navigation, but it comes in handy while pulling cut wires. In some cases plugs are connected to more the one other plug, or some of their wires are spliced together. It is very important to make sure you do not pull wires for plugs you intend to keep so you need to pay attention. After cutting certain plugs off all you need to do is tug on that color wire from the other side of the tape. Once you see the same color wire move it's easy to just pull it all the way through. All the while keep all the other wires where they are supposed to be. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-09140912.jpg Here is what I have pulled from the rear harness so far. There will be a lot more to come. Since I am changing the wiring layout I'll need to shorten quite a few wires, but I'll cover that a little later. These two bundles alone weigh about 6-8 lbs. Overall I estimate to pull about 15 lbs. of wire from the rear harness. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-09144741.jpg These will be your best friends during a wiring project like this. Inexpensive and easy to get a hold of. They work great for depinning and getting into hard to reach places. Both are two different sizes. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-09201740.jpg Some fruits of the labor. This little pile of pins is only from the plugs that were left on the harness. There are plenty more on the wires cut out. I'm feeling a bit lazy so I'm just going to leave those ones in until I need them. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-09201657.jpg The rear harness bundled up and ready to be mocked up and shortened. I say shortened right off the bat because the new route of the wiring will require way less to be used. Primarily between the two door grommets. Very few, if any, will need to be extended for the section of harness that will run to the taillights. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-09201709.jpg An overall pic of everything from the rear harness minus the two pounds of electrical tape and one pound of plastic. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Wire%20Harness%20Rebuild/2010-06-09201647.jpg

Bump still for sale

Brand new in box. Will fit most mid model Hondas and Acuras. Has to be sold tonight $130.

I can't seem t find it

Well thank you sir. The swap looks pretty straight forward for the G2I. Lol I hope like hell it works properly when I'm finished.

Hey guys I'm looking for an S2K AP2 gauge cluster, if you have one for sale let me know. Thanks.

Well today I flushed out the cut spot welds from the old brackets on the firewall, sprayed some pimer on the area to keep it from rusting. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Integra%20Build/1018091942a.jpg Finished gutting the interior. I plan on "Plastic Welding" some of the cracked plastic pieces and painting them with a color maytched interior paint. Not feeling the two-tone thing anymore. Everythin inside is ready for paint. Thinking about doing a few interior upgrades as I put it back together. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Integra%20Build/1018091940.jpg And removed the P/S pinion from the rack. Cleaned the rack up and marked which holes to keep so that the rest can be welded. Once that's done I am going to repaint it with a High temp Enamel. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c343/darkstarsinner/Integra%20Build/1018092111.jpg

Lol me neither. Thanks.

I hope so too. I guess part of the reason for going full-race is that I have a bit of a relationship with them now. After purchasing a few parts I now know that their customer service is rediculously awesome. Had a couple guys come quote the paint job and body work today. lol, we'll see what they say. I'll probably just take to the real shop. The kid does good work don't get me wrong, but the moment I said "Candy Apple" Both looked a little worried. We'll see. Ordered some new wheel bearings today along with my extended studs, front lower control arm bushings, rack and pinion bushings, shifter bushings, and Rear trailing arms bushings (again, they canceled my last order because they were out of stock but didn't know till the wife checked her e-mail). Soon she will be off of the jack stands and under a cover.