godzilla

get the 2 1/8 socket from sears. Its the same, cheap, and readily available. Its what all the toyota off road guys use, it works great.

yeah...lots of work for little return.

Yeah I can snap a pic, its on an 88 trooper I figured around here that wouldnt mean squat. I cant drill all the way through, the backside doesnt allow (at least no nut would go on after!). Its a permanent stud coming off the manifold. The flange mates up to it and you stick a nut on it. I think im overthinking it. Its $120. I could probably get someone to weld it there but any issues later and I'd be out 2 pieces instead of just the manifold.

im just thinking of the separation of alcohol and water (combined) clogging fuel filters and causing build up. Id say -most- daily drivers dont suffer from it in the short term, but it doesnt seem to be surviving the test of time. Who knows really. Ethanol is not the answer. Algae oil would probably be our best bio fuel bet, if we could figure out how to reduce the power needed to make it. But I digress... I just want some plain old gas in columbus!! Ill find some edited for clarity

With the push for E15, I wonder if there is any out there we dont know about yet. I agree 13mpg is pretty drastic and I can surely attribute some of it to driving conditions, but the obvious trend is that my mileage is significantly less. Mileage is also pretty low on my list of concerns. Engines dont like it, period. It does not run as well as a 100% gas fuel would.

This is part of my problem, the other part is, who is regulating it? Are they really testing this regularly? Even with 10% ethanol our cars are suffering. Here is a simple test, I might do this at a few regular places I go (UDF off hamilton/161, Giant eagle New Albany) and see what % of alcohol im really getting. Nothing scientific about my findings but I drive the same way I always do and sometimes get 20MPG and sometimes 33. Thats a big difference! *********************************************** get a syringe that reads 12cc min. draw in 3cc water draw in 8cc fuel from suspected tank. vigorusly shake fluids (mix) together for several seconds. let stand for 1 min. if alcohol is present in fuel it will mix with water and settle to bottom of syringe. look at dividing line between two fluids and read what scale says on side of syringe. 9.0cc = 0% alcohol 8.6cc = 5% 8.1cc = 10% 7.7cc = 15% 7.2cc = 20% 6.8cc = 25 6.3cc = 30 5.9cc = 35 5.4cc = 40 5.0cc = 45 4.5cc = 55% 4.1cc = 60% 3.6cc =65% 3.2cc = 70% 2.7cc = 75% 2.3cc = 80 1.8cc = 85 1.4cc = 90%

Anyone have a website or list of gas stations in the columbus area that are 100% ethanol free? I dont care for the shit and dont like the mileage im getting lately.

my exhaust manifold has 3 studs that bolt onto the lead pipe to the rest of my exhaust. The PO must have gotten it cross threaded because when I removed it, 3/4 of the stud came with it. I know I can just replace it, but are there any tricks I can use to seal the leak in that spot?

I go through this same crap all the time - I am a rock/metal person, but there are a few songs that go on my ipod strictly for running. Till I collapse - Eminem Eight Mile - Eminem Stronger - Kanye West Linkin Park/Jay-Z - 99 Problems Most stuff from Fall Out Boy is good pumped up shit and for some reason although it should suck for running, I can run to Metallica, One, forever. Edit: I saw three days grace up there, Animal I've Become is great for the gym!

how about some suggestions for things to do outside. Right now we spend 99% of our life at friendship park in gahanna, by the creek skipping rocks. im into mountain biking so I pull both kids on the trailer, but thats not helping them any! They play outside non-stop but do nothing, really! My son is almost 4 and I want to start him on tee ball but he has to be 5, what else is there? the soccer is a joke, but it might be our only option. when we were kids we used to melt army men and "bomb" ants with the molton fireballs, I dont see my son doing that shit now, my wife would kill me if I showed him that.

bro, take a walk. without knowing which toyota engine, its a guess at this point. modern toyota's dont use a flapper what the fuck ever...it uses an electronic MAF that CAN get cleaned, and WILL cause a rough idle and a CE light. Especically with a K&N or any oiled air filter (amsoil), the MAF sensor can get gummed up and cause all sorts of misc issues. Sorry I asked for some advice on cleaning a gasket - doesnt mean I dont know shit you :gtfo:

im not scared I just wanted some suggestions....now I have a few. I believe its steel but im going to check to be sure.... just went and stuck a magnet to it...its steel. ill get it clean. Thanks!

alrite, thanks - didnt know the stuff existed!

no I was thinking of that...like what? do they make a gasket removing solvent or do I just get creative and use ether and a lighter?

I'm trying to scrape a gasket from my oil pan, but the surface is not flat, nor is it strong. Anyone got any suggestions besides a scraper, because around the bolt holes (20 of em!) its raised and I feel like I am going to damage it if I keep scraping. How about a wire wheel? Is that safe to not damage the surface? I appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!

3.4 liter I assume....its VERY common. pull the MAF from the intake and clean it with electronics parts cleaner (radio shack) dont use something that is not electronics safe. good chance you can get it clean and functioning correctly. then, take the intake off and clean the throttle body. I suggest 3m throttle plate and carb cleaner. regular carb cleaner works but that 3m stuff is f'n incredible. hold open the throttle with your hand and clean inside the body as deep as you can. let everything dry - well - then button it all back up. better throttle response and no CE light.

Well, I decided on the donor. Here is a pic of the poor vehicle about to get stripped. It was a sweet ride home from Zanesville, let me tell ya! http://www.mshilling.net/images/the_condemned.jpg

Yeah, thanks...im over there a little, but its just not very active. I got a suggestion from someone there to take my head/block to sheets automotive on West Broad, so ill be doing that tomorrow. I had a line on another truck with a good motor for 500 but im skeptical about it for some reason.

I remember talk of the all-pro kit but not sure if it was even around when I did mine. That was a big time for Tacoma SAS so the popularity was growing FAST. I fabricated all the additionals myself and hunted for part after part (t100 oil pan, etc) the old fashioned way, lol I've been on 4x4wire but I spent most of my time on nc4x4.com....since I was the one who created it I handed it over to some friends when I moved to OH

See, im not alone! There are more of us! I also have a friend with an 89 RS (2 door short trooper, rare), he was the one that gave me the bug - I tried to buy that thing from him numerous timed and was turned down, I had to get one for myself.

I live off central college - I get up to maxtown/spring, but rarely. If you saw the trooper on the road, it would be a miracle. I drove it from indy, parked it, and tore it apart. Its not even titled in Ohio/registered yet. Must be some other idiot trying to resurrect a 21 year old junk box!

Ahhh just found a donor vehicle!! 1989 isuzu pup, same motor, 135K less miles than my junk. Im'a slap that thing in my trooper and drive it like I stole it My wife's not thrilled about the thought of a parts truck in the garage, but she'll survive! Was quoted 2500 for a rebuild, and this $500 "runs great" pup just might keep me running another 50K miles! :bangbang:

No unfortunately that is not here. When I moved here is right about the same time I started having kids (4 years ago) and thats the same time my truck "wasn't practical" anymore... Those pictures are from Uwharrie national forest in North Carolina.

Within the first month, the A/C died. Was told "no worries, must have not been charged fully from the factory". Charge and go home. A/C works, but smells funny (similarly like 134a refrigerant ). Lasted a week, hot again. Brought it back, was told 6 weeks for the part (heater core), but after an email to corporate, they magically had one that week. This was August mind you, so it was damn hot. Got the car back with a damaged dash, scratches all over the steering wheel controls and console (obviously set down on the shop floor...) so another trip to the shop after waiting for parts to replace my damaged dash. Tomorrow I get to bring it in for the 3rd time because the traction control and descent control lights are lit constantly. Was told it was a sensor in the steering wheel, they reset the code and sent me packing. Lasted a month. Came back on, reset code, lasted me an hour. Now they are getting me the part and will fix right this time. Ever since the heater core replacement, there are some awful rattles in my dash. This is not a Subaru problem, but definitely a Byers Subaru problem. I am beginning to see a trend here, Byers Subaru does ok rush work. Not great work. Overall build quality seems a little poor. Rattles, squeaks, etc...but where it counts, driveline, engine, transmission, its a very solid car. I just think with the redesign for 08 they left some fit and finish off. I bought the car off a recommendation from a friend with an 05 WRX and his car to this day has been problem free and feels amazing. Hopefully I just got the one that was skipped in the QC section of the assembly line because I want to believe its a great car.

Heres a few gratuitous poser shots of my old taco, this was its maiden voyage after the axle conversion http://www.mshilling.net/images/taco3.jpg http://www.mshilling.net/images/taco2.jpg