mathc2003

Now that UGR is in the building, they can tell us more about the mythical turbo-destroying downpipe merge that D.Wiggs wants to delete. My money is still on that it improved the exhaust note and won't really negatively affect performance much(if at all)....per JuicedH22's assessment.

I find it especially ironic that a college graduate would fail to spell "root" in such a spectacular fashion. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rout UGR keeps cranking out twin turbo Lamborghinis while Mr. Wiggs takes his car out half-assembled from the shop; he has certainly been routed. I wish the technicians well for their sake and career in the field, but you couldn't pay me enough to have this clown as a boss.

How many miles were on the engine, what modifications, and how much for the full longblock? Shoot me a PM.

Juiced, if it doesn't affect much, could UGR be using the X-pipe only to even out the sound/noise between the two sides? I'd imagine how the engine sounds is important to their customers.....

yeah, i think it's normally a 10:1 for those rising rates, i used 2:1 to make the math easier to explain. Post the results of your test in here, the DSM guys have been conflicted about whether this thing does the boost referenced 1:1, as well. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/275686-megan-racing-fpr.html

My best guess,(can't find a manual online), is that it's a 1:1 from my earlier logic. The reference allows it to hold the set pressure without the boost "dropoff" you would see in a returnless/static fuel system.

a 1:1 boost reference only prevents the "effective" fuel pressure loss due to boost....in other words, if you run a static fuel pressure, each pound of boost "opposes" fuel pressure...trying to force fuel back into the injector. A true "rising rate" would be like a 2:1 that raises fuel pressure by 2 psi for every 1 psi of additional boost. Some older cars are set up for 1:1 out of the box. Old-school guys would use a 2:1 (or higher) to bandaid a lack of tuning ability for higher levels of boost. A cool thing about any of these regulators is that they run a lower fuel pressure at idle than in boost, so you can run a smaller injector for a given boost level and still potentially have a nice idle. Get on RC injector's website and do some calculations for your target HP to find the injector size you need....try different fuel pressures too. You can boost the fuel pressure up, yes, but properly sized injectors are the best bet...the fuel pump has a limit, after all. Keep in mind that other parts of the fuel system may become a restriction before the regulator/injectors do, depending on the vehicle.

I used to use totally wicked e-liquid...think it was the "Toronado" version. It was alright, but I needed the 30mg stuff to actually give me enough kick to stop smoking. It'll give you a nice headrush with that concentration. After about a month I was coughing up the leftover crap from cigarettes in my lungs. You still get harassed about "smoking in nonpermitted areas", though, so I just started dipping snus. If you are going to do it, just make sure the liquid doesn't use diethylene glycol(automotive antifreeze) as a vaporizing agent, make sure it's polyethylene glycol(that's the stuff used in asthma inhalers). It's a bit safer.

So, should I vote for Giant Douche or Turd Sandwich? ....in all honesty, the only reason any politician gets anywhere is from party ass-kissing and universal appeal without a plan. Since Kennedy, all the presidents have been selected by their parties based on how they will appeal to the middle and look on televisions, thus keeping the party string-pullers in charge. That's why they don't like Ron Paul. He has a strong stance, and hasn't changed his tune much over the years. That being said, the executive office traditionally held less authority until Bush started adding to it, then Obama kept up the trend when he should have gotten rid of some of the executive power. Congress still does most of it, and it's obstinate and resistant to change by nature. So yeah, there's no point, and I'm still not voting.

If you have 2 skim keys already programmed, you should be able to add new keys without a scantool....details in following link. http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/installing-new-skim-key-153583/ However, if this is not the case, you WILL have to use a DRBIII to do the nasty work here....supposedly Miller Tools did DRB rentals for 150 bucks for 3 days. I don't know anything more than that. Might as well take it to the dealer in that case...you'll take it in the shorts for the rental unless you can sublet it to a buddy for a couple tests.

No one mentioned it, but Rkill FIRST to get it out of memory for the moment. Then Malwarebytes to completely yank it off the hard drive. Try all four versions of Rkill because some of those bugs are resistant to the .exe version.

it's an interesting retro-experiment, but as far as actually playing it? meh. I played a bit, built up a tower to where I hit the roof of the skybox, and tunneled underground...it gets boring after a few hours. The possibilities are many, since it's such an open world, but the interface and graphics are second rate. Maybe if it matures some more it would be worth it, but not right now.

thanks for all the welcoming. and yeah, not sure if tire shine ended up in the rotors....but it never broke loose like that before at low speed, or ever again for that matter burmese, were you at import face-off? I thought I saw a teal civic that looked like yours in the staging lanes, on slicks. Kinda want to ask if i can haz forums....i'm not sure if the "initiation period" is up yet, though

Not the cause, but a big contributing factor. Bottom line, I didn't use the stuff properly. I had been at school for the past four years, never cleaned the car other than a quick pass through an auto wash. Decided to detail that day since I was back home and had some space. Got overzealous with the shine, and it leaked down into the contact patch/tread. I got maybe 300 yards from the house, pressed the brake before I entered the first turn, a right hander....rear end popped loose and I slid to the outside...with a Chevy Tracker in the opposite lane. It was head-on...and I was lucky that we were both going pretty slow when it happened.

thanks to y'all as well. It's good to see a forum that is well-moderated...half of the boards these days have turned into 4chan with cars. I almost forgot: I did have another car back in 2008....and that one is going to end up as the "better half" of what's in the civic. it's also the reason I use tire cleaner and won't touch tire shine ever again... Saturday Night http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v601/prepslider69/n25206667_31227781_3206.jpg Sunday Afternoon http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v601/prepslider69/n25206667_31227790_5907.jpg moral of the story: stupid hurts, and it will hurt you in the wallet really badly if it's on a modified car.

thanks for the welcome, guys! and Paul, yeah, my 60 foots need some work. I have a box full of slips from last year. I did get a fluke run below a 2.0, it was a 1.96....and that was the pass prior to blowing both axles. I'm getting some pretty massive wheel-hop, even though I've filled the motor mounts....120k miles has probably blown the stock struts. Appreciate the advice. Do you pre-load the axles before launch?

Hello everyone, First off...the important stuff...my cars My daily is a little '93 Civic...I refer to it as the snot rocket because it ain't exactly in the best shape. Was a flood title when I bought it, had to go through all kinds of garbage with the Mississippi DMV before I could even get it tagged. Stuff done to it: Ebay Tails/Headlights(rice.......) B18B1 swap from an OBD1 Integra LS Hondata S300(soldered it in myself) Intake/Headers/Exhaust Buddy Club Coilovers Acura Integra GS-R dashboard (integra dashbar mounts welded-in rather than cutting the civic stocker). Best slip was a 15.5 1/4 mile with a 2.3 60-foot, trapping 98. That's why she's the beater for the moment. Future plans for the car include making the car's body panels all have the same color, and swapping the block from a wrecked GSR into it. My relatively faster car: 2005 Dodge Neon 2.4 Turbo (some people forget it's a neon.....) Here's a picture. I'm not big on appearance with my vehicles. You can even see the civic in the background. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v601/prepslider69/DSCN0021.jpg Stuff I put on it: Exhaust Depot 3" turboback exhaust FM Transmission(blew the stocker up in Alabama last summer) Modern Performance 3" O2 housing Mopar Stage 2/Toys Aeromotive RRFPR and -6an fuel setup UHP with a blow-off valve SCTFlash PRP and Diablosport Predator(just use the Pred for datalogging) Ripped out the back half of the interior since I didn't like it. 17x8 rims so I can fit 245/40/17s under the fender. This spring I plan to install coilovers, hopefully I'll get more consistent 60ft times with a better suspension. Once I get the right size injectors, it will be time for some corn gas. I would also <really> love to get rid of the sunroof. That's 30 pounds I don't want. Best i've done in the neon is a 13.38 with a 2.1 60-foot, trapping 107. Would love to bolt up some slicks....but I think you guys have seen my axle "work" at kil-kare before:thumbup: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v601/prepslider69/DSC01200.jpg I live and work in Dayton(originally from a dairy farm down south), but I've been hanging out a lot more in Columbus lately, trying to learn more about my car and what makes it tick....specifically SCT, Diablosport, and HPTuners(if it ever becomes available for Dodge). I go to Kil-Kare whenever I can make it, so you might have seen me there last season.