Boydness
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Posts posted by Boydness
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I actually admire this guy's creativity, or simple lack of knowledge of the LSx. To me, this would be a no-brainer in favor of the LSx and T56. However, there are some interesting ideas in here.
I'm also curious about your neighbor's fascination with the 351M. This has been a problematic/anemic power plant for many people over the years. I'm sure they can be done properly with enough money, but then anything can in that respect.
I've considered the LSx C3 conversion, there are a few out there: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-tech-performance/2226401-c3-lsx-conversion-directory.html
I should have clarified, the 351M is more for the conversion of one of my wagons, than the vette. Although, I think that I would prefer the cummins over the 351M.
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Suspension lift.. tires. go mudding.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h34/kyle_F_Robb/corvette4x4.jpg
I might go that route, although the tires are a little smallish for my tastes...
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4G63 + Powerglide
Now that is a different option worth researching.
What's that based on? Do you know of any builds?
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LS1 with a carb
Which intake and carb combo?
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is this a trick question??
lsx + 6 speed = 25mpg and endless aftermarket opportunities
A C3 LSx conversion is an option. I have seen a few of those.
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Why would you want the opinions of all us smug, arrogant superficial idiots?
Because you all are smart...
LOL, that part of the sig is a joke on the first half about not be judgmental...
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http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/Boydness/Corvette_001-1.jpg
I am soliciting re-powering suggestions for my vette.
I've missed the last several years of advancements, so I am open to considering any options. I will use the suggestions to start researching the option.
Requirements:
She should be respectable at the track and presentable on the street.
Preferably, capable of driving herself to another state.
I am willing to reshape the floor and firewall to accommodate.
I was even thinking about a "Mighty Mouse" 305 setup, like the Malibu: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1494
I like the thought of a 20+ mpg vette.
Maybe something utilizing MegaSquirt or otherwise non-carb.
Throwing me some options and maybe a guesstimate on expense.
I am thinking that I might use one of the set-ups for one of my wagons. Incidentally, if someone has a Ford 351M suggestion, I would especially like to hear it. I have a neighbor working to convince me that it is a great powerplant.
:zoom:
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What are they going on? I might have a set of 13" steelies.
-Mike
Sorry Mike, I updated my post, I have plenty of steelies, I am looking for lighter weight and doing away with the hubs caps.
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the shaking started long after tire rotation. Sometimes it rides smooth as glass, other times its annoying as fuck to drive anywhere. If it were a bent rim i dont see why the brakes would be affected.
If the bent rims was in a different position prior to tire rotation, it is possible that you did not experience any symptoms until that rim was rotated into that position.
Depending on the oscillation of the rim, if could affect the braking, it would be putting stress on all the components of the assembly by being out-of-round.
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Want to buy: 4-lug rims, pattern 4x4.5 / 4X114.3
13-15" rims, with or without tires
Non-steelies. For a Suzuki Swift.
PM if you need my cell number to txt pics.
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Want to buy: 700R4 4x4 transmission
Thinking about converting one of my Wagons to auto 4x4, anyone happen to have one, non-electronically controlled preferably.
Rebuilt or non-rebuilt, either way.
Might consider other options, if someone is looking to make a good deal.
Even if not for sale, I would still like to find a core that I used for mock-up purposes, if someone has one to loan.
:thumbup:
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Not trying to thread jack, but im having a very similar issue in on 2002 focus. Sometimes on the highway i get this shaking/thumping coming from the right front. my brakes work fine until it starts thumping then the brakes get stiff and super sensitive. Could this be a sticking caliper on a warped rotar? The shaking/thumping is really random and usually only happends above 60MPH.
Was that happening before the last time you rotated your tires?
Have you checked if that rim might be bent?
The oscillation varies due to spend and 60MPH is probably where you would see the most pronounced symptoms of a bent rim.
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Maybe replacement marker lights like these: http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/MCL19AB.html?feed=npn
I figure there is not much behind the assembly (as there is no protruding bulb to the rear), I just relocate/extend the wiring from the original markers to the new slightly lower position.
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Get to full instructions from here:
http://www.hella.com/produktion/Optilux/WebSite/AuxiliaryLights/Support/Support.jsp
Thank you, it was as you stated, I found the instructions for the Hella Optilux 2020 that I ordered.
It said that the should be as far a part I can get them, I was going to install them in the "mouth" of the bumper.
Do you think that would be too close together? And maybe even way too low?
I mounted the last set there on the other vehicle, but it really did not improve the visibility that much. I just figured that they were just cheap quality and that was the problem.
The headlights sit immediately on top of the bumper.
Now I am considering that I mount them in the front marker/blinker locations and mount an alternate marker/blinker (maybe LED) just under there.
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IT COULD be a problem with the new wheels..they are used..
unlikely but i do have pretty shitty luck
Would just simple "cupping" on the rear tires cause that?
Even if it is not occurring while braking, I would think that dragging brake pads combined with a warped rotor would be like slightly braking with warped rotors, you will get some shake...
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Are the speedo cable ends (inserting into the tranny) different between TH350 and TH400?
Essentially, do you need to swap out a speedo cable if you are swapping transmissions between a TH350 and TH400?
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What are the interior/exterior dimensions of the freezers?
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I wish I could still find it but there used to be a product that you could cut and would adhere to the back of that plastic. Once subjected to the suns uv rays it would become rock hard in whatever shape you put it in. With that stuff it would then simply be a matter of filling in the groove, sanding and painting. Anyone know this product I speak of? Havent seen it in years but Home depot sold it for a short time.jegs has it. its called hyperfiber
That product sounds great.
Not really attempting to thread-jack, but does anyone have pics of using the hyperfiber in progress?
I have the same type of issue with some plastic pieces that cracked and replacements (other than used, with the same age issue) do not exist.
EDIT: I found this:
HyperFiber Magic Carpet Self-Hardening Weave Material - How To Do It
Didn't find anything on using it for a repair.
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The entire circuit needs to be addressed or there is sure to be future melt.
The OP said that it ran like that for years before the melt.
I am assuming that the original relay was bypassed and the rigging ("with a wire running from it to the ac/heater fuse") lasted a fairly extended span of time, the extent of the melt is obvious that something changed recently.
Replacing the relay is only part of the solution, whatever created the excessive draw is will still cause the same draw of amperage on the new wire/fuse. Monitoring the circuit and watching the amount of draw at different points should point to the cause.
Most OEM relays are sized to be appropriate for the engineered load and just slightly more for protection. The excessive draw might be out of tolerance for the relay and cause the relay to fail/melt. It would be a shame to waste the money on having to order another replacement relay...
Definitely, verify the max amperage rating for the relay and verify that the circuit is fused correctly (which should be less than the maximum of the relay). A 30A relay should have a 25A fuse; A 20A relay would have a 15A fuse; etc. Fuses are cheaper than relays.
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With the way the weather is right now, you can honestly just drive without a fan right now unless you will be in massive amounts of stop and go traffic. That would get you by until you receive the new fan relay.
I wonder if the fan is even running, it is possible that it might have seized and that caused the melt.
As long as the radiator is free flowing, he should be fine.
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I like the "level surface" to any flat surface - 10' is good, a little farther is better (I have been over 100' for driving lights when aiming). I measure up from the ground to the center of the light - aim for the same height or just below on the flat surface for the brightest part of the beam. If they are to be driving lights, I also shoot for straight ahead - if they are meant to be "cornering lights" (road racing at night to help pick up the edge of the pavement/apexes) - I will angle the very slightly outward. Keep in mind if you choose the right lenses - the lense pattern will give you the correct light pattern ahead of you - this is why I like Hella, they make lights for various applications/light patterns (besides the quality). These are my personal preferences and the set up I have used for endurance racing cars I have been responsible for. Your preferences for street driving may differ.
So, I would just point the Hella Optilux 2020 directly forwarded, as they should be designed for the proper lens pattern, right?
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98 neon
For the last few years the fan has been rigged with a wire running from it to the ac/heater fuse. Here lately it's been causing problems and last night it decided to melt the fuse, plastic and all so neither the fan nor the heater was working. I'm ordering a fan relay online but need to rig it for the mean time and the fuse hole is burnt on the one it was in so I'm not using that again. For now, it's in a slot named power door locks but the car doesn't have them?
My question is, could I just use the wire for the fan relay? Just go back behind the relay and splice it in so it stays on when the ignition is on? I'm thinking this may be better than using a fuse.
Ok, I re-read it, you want to jumper the fan until you can install the relay.
You really do not want to do that, as you have something drawing a high load on the circuit, thus the melt. Maybe, a fan motor that is requiring excessive amperage due to the higher resistance of the motor due to age.
Running it straight from IGN hot and fuse-ing it, means that you will need to size the fuse appropriately. A 30-amp fuse does you no good if the wire is going to melt at 20A.
If you are really going to run it direct feed from IGN hot, I would start with a small 10A, and gradually work up the amperage of the fuse. I would be guessing the fan is drawing 30A or more to due that amount of damage. The smaller fuse 10A or 15A might allow you to run it for periods of time and safely protect you from a fire. But, you will be changing fuses depending on where the high draw is occurring (ie at start-up or after some point).
Even with the relay installed, you have something wrong with the circuit, which is drawing the excessive current. That is going to have to be addressed at some point.
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98 neon
For the last few years the fan has been rigged with a wire running from it to the ac/heater fuse. Here lately it's been causing problems and last night it decided to melt the fuse, plastic and all so neither the fan nor the heater was working. I'm ordering a fan relay online but need to rig it for the mean time and the fuse hole is burnt on the one it was in so I'm not using that again. For now, it's in a slot named power door locks but the car doesn't have them?
My question is, could I just use the wire for the fan relay? Just go back behind the relay and splice it in so it stays on when the ignition is on? I'm thinking this may be better than using a fuse.
I don't understand.
You could indeed run it so that the ignition hot closes the relay to deliver power to the fan.
Assuming a 4-terminal relay:
---IGN hot ---- ground [closes the relay]
---power/battery ---- to the Fan [powers the fan]
What are you jumpering? Obviously, the fan or other load on the circuit drew high amperage that caused the melt of the original connector.
You will want to fuse the "power/battery" terminal of the relay, although technically it could also be on the "to the fan" side of the relay". The location should be wherever it is easiest to change the fuse.
The ignition hot is most likely fused already, closing the relay will not draw much amperage. Additional fusing will just prevent a fire/melt in the event that the ignition hot circuit shorts to ground and draws excessive circuit.
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HID retrofit.
This vehicle has the sealed beams, I might go with a conversion, if these new high intensity sealed beams, that I plan to install this weekend, don't turn out too well. Before I switch over to composites, like on my verts, I want to see what I can do with the sealed beams. But, a retrofit might be the solution. Then I could keep the sealed beam look, but have HID performance.
But which HID bulbs style should I be looking to add?
I've done the "Garage Door" aim technique: Park 10ft away from a closed garage door, and aim for roughly 1-2 feet off the ground.That is what I was thinking. I was able to move to a white light on the vert, a lot of the bulbs were giving me yellow light.
Should the driving lights point straight out or should I be mounting them in a slight V pattern? The bumper is cheap, I think that I only get one shot at making a clean install. I think the mounting brackets only adjust up/down, not side-to-side.
Re-power suggestion for '77 vette
in Passing Lane
Posted
That is what I had been thinking, but thought that there could be other options to consider before just going all "new school" corvette on my vette.
The wife asks why I just don't buy a newer C5 or C6 vette if all I want is a modern engine. If I am not going old school or different, then that is probably what I will do then.