Boydness

That is what I had been thinking, but thought that there could be other options to consider before just going all "new school" corvette on my vette. The wife asks why I just don't buy a newer C5 or C6 vette if all I want is a modern engine. If I am not going old school or different, then that is probably what I will do then.

I've considered the LSx C3 conversion, there are a few out there: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-tech-performance/2226401-c3-lsx-conversion-directory.html I should have clarified, the 351M is more for the conversion of one of my wagons, than the vette. Although, I think that I would prefer the cummins over the 351M.

I might go that route, although the tires are a little smallish for my tastes...

Now that is a different option worth researching. What's that based on? Do you know of any builds?

Which intake and carb combo?

A C3 LSx conversion is an option. I have seen a few of those.

Because you all are smart... LOL, that part of the sig is a joke on the first half about not be judgmental...

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/Boydness/Corvette_001-1.jpg I am soliciting re-powering suggestions for my vette. I've missed the last several years of advancements, so I am open to considering any options. I will use the suggestions to start researching the option. Requirements: She should be respectable at the track and presentable on the street. Preferably, capable of driving herself to another state. I am willing to reshape the floor and firewall to accommodate. I was even thinking about a "Mighty Mouse" 305 setup, like the Malibu: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1494 I like the thought of a 20+ mpg vette. Maybe something utilizing MegaSquirt or otherwise non-carb. Throwing me some options and maybe a guesstimate on expense. I am thinking that I might use one of the set-ups for one of my wagons. Incidentally, if someone has a Ford 351M suggestion, I would especially like to hear it. I have a neighbor working to convince me that it is a great powerplant. :zoom:

Sorry Mike, I updated my post, I have plenty of steelies, I am looking for lighter weight and doing away with the hubs caps.

If the bent rims was in a different position prior to tire rotation, it is possible that you did not experience any symptoms until that rim was rotated into that position. Depending on the oscillation of the rim, if could affect the braking, it would be putting stress on all the components of the assembly by being out-of-round.

Want to buy: 4-lug rims, pattern 4x4.5 / 4X114.3 13-15" rims, with or without tires Non-steelies. For a Suzuki Swift. PM if you need my cell number to txt pics.

Want to buy: 700R4 4x4 transmission Thinking about converting one of my Wagons to auto 4x4, anyone happen to have one, non-electronically controlled preferably. Rebuilt or non-rebuilt, either way. Might consider other options, if someone is looking to make a good deal. Even if not for sale, I would still like to find a core that I used for mock-up purposes, if someone has one to loan. :thumbup:

Was that happening before the last time you rotated your tires? Have you checked if that rim might be bent? The oscillation varies due to spend and 60MPH is probably where you would see the most pronounced symptoms of a bent rim.

Maybe replacement marker lights like these: http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/MCL19AB.html?feed=npn I figure there is not much behind the assembly (as there is no protruding bulb to the rear), I just relocate/extend the wiring from the original markers to the new slightly lower position.

Thank you, it was as you stated, I found the instructions for the Hella Optilux 2020 that I ordered. It said that the should be as far a part I can get them, I was going to install them in the "mouth" of the bumper. Do you think that would be too close together? And maybe even way too low? I mounted the last set there on the other vehicle, but it really did not improve the visibility that much. I just figured that they were just cheap quality and that was the problem. The headlights sit immediately on top of the bumper. Now I am considering that I mount them in the front marker/blinker locations and mount an alternate marker/blinker (maybe LED) just under there.

Would just simple "cupping" on the rear tires cause that? Even if it is not occurring while braking, I would think that dragging brake pads combined with a warped rotor would be like slightly braking with warped rotors, you will get some shake...

Are the speedo cable ends (inserting into the tranny) different between TH350 and TH400? Essentially, do you need to swap out a speedo cable if you are swapping transmissions between a TH350 and TH400?

What are the interior/exterior dimensions of the freezers?

That product sounds great. Not really attempting to thread-jack, but does anyone have pics of using the hyperfiber in progress? I have the same type of issue with some plastic pieces that cracked and replacements (other than used, with the same age issue) do not exist. EDIT: I found this: HyperFiber Magic Carpet Self-Hardening Weave Material - How To Do It http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/general/hrdp_1007_hyperfiber_magic_carpet_self_hardening_weave_material/ Didn't find anything on using it for a repair.

The entire circuit needs to be addressed or there is sure to be future melt. The OP said that it ran like that for years before the melt. I am assuming that the original relay was bypassed and the rigging ("with a wire running from it to the ac/heater fuse") lasted a fairly extended span of time, the extent of the melt is obvious that something changed recently. Replacing the relay is only part of the solution, whatever created the excessive draw is will still cause the same draw of amperage on the new wire/fuse. Monitoring the circuit and watching the amount of draw at different points should point to the cause. Most OEM relays are sized to be appropriate for the engineered load and just slightly more for protection. The excessive draw might be out of tolerance for the relay and cause the relay to fail/melt. It would be a shame to waste the money on having to order another replacement relay... Definitely, verify the max amperage rating for the relay and verify that the circuit is fused correctly (which should be less than the maximum of the relay). A 30A relay should have a 25A fuse; A 20A relay would have a 15A fuse; etc. Fuses are cheaper than relays.

I wonder if the fan is even running, it is possible that it might have seized and that caused the melt. As long as the radiator is free flowing, he should be fine.

So, I would just point the Hella Optilux 2020 directly forwarded, as they should be designed for the proper lens pattern, right?

Ok, I re-read it, you want to jumper the fan until you can install the relay. You really do not want to do that, as you have something drawing a high load on the circuit, thus the melt. Maybe, a fan motor that is requiring excessive amperage due to the higher resistance of the motor due to age. Running it straight from IGN hot and fuse-ing it, means that you will need to size the fuse appropriately. A 30-amp fuse does you no good if the wire is going to melt at 20A. If you are really going to run it direct feed from IGN hot, I would start with a small 10A, and gradually work up the amperage of the fuse. I would be guessing the fan is drawing 30A or more to due that amount of damage. The smaller fuse 10A or 15A might allow you to run it for periods of time and safely protect you from a fire. But, you will be changing fuses depending on where the high draw is occurring (ie at start-up or after some point). Even with the relay installed, you have something wrong with the circuit, which is drawing the excessive current. That is going to have to be addressed at some point.

I don't understand. You could indeed run it so that the ignition hot closes the relay to deliver power to the fan. Assuming a 4-terminal relay: ---IGN hot ---- ground [closes the relay] ---power/battery ---- to the Fan [powers the fan] What are you jumpering? Obviously, the fan or other load on the circuit drew high amperage that caused the melt of the original connector. You will want to fuse the "power/battery" terminal of the relay, although technically it could also be on the "to the fan" side of the relay". The location should be wherever it is easiest to change the fuse. The ignition hot is most likely fused already, closing the relay will not draw much amperage. Additional fusing will just prevent a fire/melt in the event that the ignition hot circuit shorts to ground and draws excessive circuit.

This vehicle has the sealed beams, I might go with a conversion, if these new high intensity sealed beams, that I plan to install this weekend, don't turn out too well. Before I switch over to composites, like on my verts, I want to see what I can do with the sealed beams. But, a retrofit might be the solution. Then I could keep the sealed beam look, but have HID performance. But which HID bulbs style should I be looking to add? That is what I was thinking. I was able to move to a white light on the vert, a lot of the bulbs were giving me yellow light. Should the driving lights point straight out or should I be mounting them in a slight V pattern? The bumper is cheap, I think that I only get one shot at making a clean install. I think the mounting brackets only adjust up/down, not side-to-side.