POS VETT

Are they the 5- or 6-spoke kind?

The parameters considered here are cost, ease of application, effectiveness, and life. Used motor oil coating will need application once or twice a year but it's free and surely it will not last more than a few thousand miles. I don't like thick, permanent or semi-permanent coating. In my previous work experience, such coating cracked, chipped, or peeled. It makes moisture trapped between metal and coating, making corrosion process much faster and worse. On my previous truck, it was undercoated by unknown source and the coating was damaged; so salt-ladden moisture was retained.

The very best treatment is to keep the salt from ever touching your "precious metal", as in don't drive it in the winter and until the salt has been completely washed away; I'd wait at least two big rains since the last salt application. If your "precious metal" had to be driven in the salted slush, there is no 100% effective way to keep rust from forming. Heated metals such as a brake rotor and an exhaust pipe/flange/component will corrode even faster. I've turned borderline obsessive by spraying the undercarriage of my daily drivers at home everytime any of them has been driven. Not always possible when temperature is in "deep freeze" range and it surely takes certain infrastructure to be in place. Another story I have hear or read is to spray the undercarriage with light oil. The cheapest is using used motor oil. EPA, and maybe some of your neighbors, will frown upon this. Of course spraying oil on brake friction surfaces or exhaust part exposed to high temperature may carry unwanted and dire outcomes.

What happened on Sunday?

I'm reorganizing my sock and underwear drawers ... Oh, I'm washing my hair afterward. Thanks for the offer though

Never heard that one. May be this one instead? http://www.oldride.com/events/6712574.html

I consider Goodyear F1 Supercars an average tire in the summer tire category. There are quite a number of better tires in this category. Depending on your tolerance to noise, what you expect a tire should achieve, and your budget, they can vary greatly. The fact that summer is winding down and whether the car is driven in the snow also play a significant role in deciding which tire is the better choice. Eibach Pro-Spacer is just, well, wheel spacers. Unless you're having a slight clearance problem or you're hell bent on fitting a wheel with certain parameters, let's stay away from them for now. There are more elegant solutions to increase grip.

I would try Rock Auto. OEM Brembo brakes are rather common and affordable.

I'm washing my hair, sorry.

It was a joke. Unlikely I will sell mine.

Maybe I should throw in my V in the mix ...

Would the '9 have Recaro seats too?

Tell Mark to replace the antique L98 in his newly-acquired C4 with a built LQ4.

How much for the seats?

What?

Any '8+ front brakes and Recaro seats?

Congrats, Chad!

Hood, headlights, suspension pieces are shared with V6 CTS; HID headlight is part of an option on the V6. The main grill is an option for sport package CTS, but the lower and bumper cover are specific to the V. The cradle might be specific to the V due to the engine.

I have an S3. Are you looking for something better?

In a rather literal "wrap that bitch around a tree", the chassis parts meant to increase rigidity would have been damaged likely severely.

Outcornering mommyvans and pickemuptwaks is a good goal. One thing to consider is to compare spring rates due to the fact that your car has the factory suspension package. I would consider an anti-sway bar set before replacing springs and, if possible, increasing chassis rigidity and bushing compliance.

My wife complained that the right rear brake on the Z has been squealing since a couple or so days ago and judging from the appearance of the outboard pads, they seemed to be a bit low. So, today I decided to inspect the rear brakes. I jacked up the car, took off rear wheels, and disassembled the rear calipers to get the pads out. Here is a picture of them; the pair location correspond to their respective locations when mounted in the car. http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk247/2003BlackZ06/Mobile%20Uploads/20140817_181507_zps8fa0a4ab.jpg The pad thicknesses varied between 2 and 4 mm. There is only one pad (inboard right side) that has a wear indicator which explained the squealing only on the right side. It struck me as odd when there was only one pad with indicator, but it's probably not important. Since there were still some friction material left, I decided to reuse the pads. However, I first rubbed the pads on my driveway concrete since I've heard this was a tried-and-true CR way to extend the life of brake pads. I made sure the pads were rubbed at the right angle relative to the rotor swept direction. Here is what I came with. Hopefully the rub marks are visible enough for you to see. http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk247/2003BlackZ06/Mobile%20Uploads/20140817_181612_zps3de8210c.jpg I hope I did it correctly although I have a couple questions. Should I have rubbed it on the swept direction also to achieve a cross-hatch pattern? I'm expecting to get roughly 5k more miles on them, but what can I do to get more life out of them? Thanks for the help y'all, I'm a complete noob about this brake thing.

Leatherique here.

Pray tell, what could this "nicer DD" be?

Well, that is textbook roadrage, mixed with religious slander.