IBAUCLAPlaya

You can't really beat $500...I'll be in the market for something similar soon. Hope I can find a deal like this.

I'd be in for an enduro session too!

Somewhat off topic...but what would cause the headrests in the back seat to go bad? Don't think I've ever seen that...

Bump. Does anybody have experience doing valve seals on a 2JZ or can recommend me to someone who does?

Pulled off the ic pipe the other day. There is some sticky oil coating on the inner pipe, but no pooling or anything pointing to failing turbo seals.

Anybody?

Hi there, Looking for CR's advice on a local cleaning service/maid that is reasonably priced and does a good job. Now that both my wife and I are working full time, the last thing we want to do on the weekends is spend four hours cleaning the entire place. I searched and found a thread from a few years ago, but it was already closed so I had to open a new thread. Apartment is a 2-stories, 3bd, 2.5bth approx 1600 sq ft in Dublin. Looking for service either every other week, or once every 3 weeks. My wife and I will maintain the apartment in between cleanings, but the more in-depth stuff is just too time consuming. I called a few places from Google but so far haven't been pleased: The Maids - $156 per hour estimated at 1.5-2 hours for 4 person team Action Maids - $120 estimate for 2 person team Classic Maid - estimate coming Thursday but anticipate this to be the most competitive so far at $80-95. Any suggestions? TIA Matt

Your best bet would probably be to go to the local Micro Center on Bethel Rd. I've always found that their prices are well below Newegg, especially on processors and main build components. They also have a good selection of OEM computers if you choose to go that route too. In addition, their sales folks are very knowledgeable should you have any questions.

Update...I talked with Brent at IPS and met him at the shop Thursday. He used a dremel and ground down the areas where the paint was cracking/splitting. Then applied POR-15 over the bare metal. We let dry for 2 hours or so then applied a coat of POR-15 grey primer. Brent did a great job carefully applying this stuff so you still can't see from the outside. I let the car dry overnight, then this weekend applied 2 layers of white touch up paint and 2 coats of clear. I must say, I HATE using the brushes they include with factory touch up paint. It's not the prettiest, but I feel much better now that the area is protected. I'll do my best to get pics up in the next few days. On a separate note, does anybody have experience doing valve stem seals on a Supra that would be willing to help me do this job? I'm going to order the parts from Curt @ Elmhurst and I have the garage and standard tools, but like I mentioned before I'm simply not comfortable doing this myself nor do I have the specialized tools for the job. Let me know...I'm located in Dublin right off Tuttle Crossing. Thanks, Matt

So I applied clear over the cracking paint last night in 3 separate layers. My only concern is the section in the second photo in my original post...the paint is already peeling a bit from the fender and I'm not certain the clear that I applied will actually seal this opening. I guess for this section, I may just have to chip away??

Yep I was happy with the care he took in rolling them and when I left, both sides looked great. When I checked again a few days later, I found the passenger side that way, and definitely no signs of the tire actually hitting so I guess that's just what happens with 17 year old paint!

The main purpose isn't replacing the timing belt (but probably would do so while in there), but to replace valve stem seals. I know the job isn't that difficult, but I don't have the confidence in myself to mess around with anything that involves timing the motor. Brent @ IPS did the fenders. I watched him do the job using heat gun and all taking his time. Overall it took well over an hour to do both sides. Driver side came out fine, passenger side not so much.

I just don't trust myself when it comes to things like timing, plus I don't have any of those specialized tools. I have the garage and the basic tools including air compressor, but need an expert to help with tools or take to a shop.

Valve stem seals on the Supra seems a bit more involved than 4 hours of labor...I found this how to guide. Guy said 20 hours for first time, but estimated 10-15 for the next step. Most shops I've talked to have quoted well over $1000 for the job, excluding parts. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?49859-How-To-Valve-Stem-Seal-Replacement

Thanks for the advice so far! I'll check the IC piping this coming weekend. Is there really any potential damage that could occur from either the valve seals though? The replacement is a bit beyond my experience level and I'd hate to shell out $1000 if there are no negative side effects other than burning oil. I'm thinking I'll go down the clear coat route first to see what happens. Anything specific I should do for paint prep? I was thinking simply spray some quick-detailer on a rag and wipe (I don't want to wash and risk water getting in there and rusting). Is there anything else before I apply a layer of clear coat?

Yes the paint cracked after the fenders were rolled.

Hi all, I have a 1997 MKIV Twin Turbo 6spd with 60k original miles. Bought the car bone stock in September. Compression test was done by a Toyota dealer with strong results. The only issue I've had is since owning the car it does blow a puff of smoke right when you fire it up. It smells more like fuel than anything, but I'm fairly certain it has a blueish tint to it meaning oil. Since buying the car, I've only added CCW wheels, eBay downpipe, HKS Superdragger catback, Max Air Intake, and 1 step colder plugs. When I pulled the old plugs, they were dry and looked good, but there was some oil built up under the spark plug cover. I'm guessing this may be from one of the vent hoses leaking at some point in time (one hose was zip tied). I did my best to clean up the pooled oil and then replaced both vent hoses. Recently, I took the car to have the rear fenders rolled to fit the wheels (11.5" 315s) and put the car on the dyno. Unfortunately, the passenger side fender paint is cracking a bit. On the dyno, I had two pulls done, one with sequential twins running normally, and one with true twin activated via the S4S switch. On sequential mode, I pulled 326hp, 322tq, max boost of 13.3, and AFR's going rich to 10.0 from 4500rpm to redline. On true twin mode, I pulled 326hp, 345tq, max boost of 15.5, AFR's going rich to 10.0 from 4500 to redline. On the way home, my wife was behind me and said the car was putting out a puff of smoke when I let off the throttle. Nothing on acceleration, even at WOT, but when I let off the gas pedal, a small puff of greyish smoke comes out. Here are a few questions I'm hoping the CR crew can help point me in the right direction with: 1. Smoke at startup. I've read this could either be the turbo(s) going bad, or leaking valve seals. Either way, it seems like this isn't a huge issue, but how can I diagnose what the true culprit is causing the smoke? I've searched and couldn't find anything definitive on how to tell if it's valve seals vs. turbos. 2. Smoke on throttle let off. Any thoughts as to what the cause of this could be? Is this something I should be worrying about? 3a. Rich AFR's. The shop told me 10.0 was too rich and could be damaging to the motor causing potential for blowing a piston ring. Is this really true? 3b. If the Rich AFR's are cause for concern, the shop recommended I get an AEM EMS to control this. I know there are much cheaper options available, but I'm not comfortable hacking up the factory harness. Long term my goals are very modest with this car, at most maybe adding a single turbo once the stock twins fail. Is the AEM too overkill, or is it a good solution based on the fact I don't want to hack up stock ECU and wiring? Can I still control turbo operation with the AEM, choosing whether or not to operate in sequential mode, or true twin mode? 4. Fender paint cracking. See pics below. This is not visible from standing next to the car, you really have to kneel down and look up into the fender. I really hope this doesn't mean I have to repaint the entire fender. The car never sees snow or even rain, the wettest it gets is when I wash it. What is the best way to handle this? My local shop told me the best option would be to chip away the paint about 3-5mm from where the crack is happening, coat the metal in a solution (I can't remember the specific name of it, maybe like PB-15 or something?), put a primer over it, then brush touch up paint on top. Chipping away the paint really scares me, but looking for the best advice out there. http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn228/IBAUCLAPlaya/IMG_3373_zpsaeb37718.jpg http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn228/IBAUCLAPlaya/IMG_3374_zpsec943ccc.jpg http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn228/IBAUCLAPlaya/IMG_3376_zps9d6892b3.jpg

Congrats!

Just out of curiosity, why are you selling? No longer need, or were you not happy with something about it?

Bump for a great machine!

Surprised it took this long...I have a day one edition and have never used Kinect yet...

Congrats! Love the color/wheels/seats!

Love the tone of the Gallardo!

Is Wow available in an apartment complex? I'm in Hilliard Grand in Dublin...

nice!