ol doc gully

blacklick says no, they dont really do automotive, unfortunately

I had also come across the name Bender's Race Cars & Fab but they are no longer available either

i really do appreciate the input though guys, keep it coming - starting to be real glad I had found that one name, jeez...

Try Wheel Technologies.

 

If all else failed and changing offset isn't a problem, consider adapter.

awesome, i will give them a call over lunch, thanks.

im already pushing the envelope wiht how low the offset is so an adapter would definitely push it out too much

You would think any machine shop with a vertical mill be enough would be able to do it.

aye, was harder than i expected to even find one place

I called the manufacturer to confirm that its no problem based on the wheel design, and luckily its extra easy cause theyre 4 lug being redrilled for another 4 lug pattern - but does anybody have a recommendation for a shop to do it?

the only place ive found so far is Babbitt Bearing Co on Frank in south columbus, sounds like it might be pretty expensive. i thought Wheel Medic would be the place but they do not do that.

cheers and thanks!

took a full day of driving around getting lost on westward country roads and took this pic - prob my favorite to date, and last of the year as shes on jackstands and under the knife for the winter

swapping the engine this weekend (getting a fresh L28 with much better compression and a holley carb, all the accessories and the trans with new clutch), should be super solid for 2015. and got a slew of race car goodies to go in before spring time too, should be a good one!

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n202/misplacedape/datsun_ohcruise_edit_sm_zps8a405cf0.jpg

They just can't stay away from the scoops with these car....Looks great aside from the scoops.

im with you there... i even ditched the one on my old subaru. but on that roush... i really dig it. crossing my fingers its functional. super charger heat exchanger? PLEEEAAASSEEE....

theres several more pics in the link

im utterly smitten

HOLY CRAP - CANT NOT LIKE

2015 roush

http://www.automotiveaddicts.com/47641/all-new-2015-roush-mustangs-introduced

http://www.automotiveaddicts.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/2015-ROUSH-Mustang-4-770x513.jpg

http://www.automotiveaddicts.com/47641/all-new-2015-roush-mustangs-introduced

Nice work!. I think you will be decently pleased. Looks like you did a great job with the coverage. I am not looking forward to rolling around on my gravel driveway lol.

 

It will wash off with soap and a good hand washing so long as you dont leave it there forever.

 

Just saw yours it a Toyota too. I would highly advise, if you get a chance, to take out the LCA cam bolts and really antisieze them well. Same with the front strut mount bolts and any other big bolts that go through metal bushings... They will seize with the road salt. Maybe not in just a year or two, but man it SUCKS.

yeah i would have been crawling around on cobblestone if it hadnt been for my buddy's help - i feel your pain haha. and im really glad you said that about the control arm bolts. i recently did that job on an old subaru and my even older datsun and was very... unpleasant. i'll have to do that along with whatever next round of service.

I just sprayed my truck this past weekend with a mix of motor oil and STP. In the past I prep'd my truck with por15. My truck is 05 duramax with a plow. The por15 still looks good, but I figured I will add the oil to the mix for additional protection.

yeah i used POR to coat my datsun suspension before reassembling, good stuff, very durable. but here i mostly wanted to do something for all the bolt heads and hardware on moving joints etc to prevent rust in all those places, as ive seen how bad it can be on a few cars ive worked on since being up here and it is just ruinous.

welp, for what its worth, after all that research fluid film definitely sounded like the way to go. i think my second choice would have been amsoil HD metal protector, sounds like it is a bit more of a permanent coating, so might be favorable if youre expecting lots physical contact.

anyway, used about 2 cans on just wheel wells, then 3-4 on the rest of the underside. used an outdoor lift at my buddies work, wind was a bit fierce so got quite a bit of overspray on one side of my truck. seems like it will just wash off with soap and water though.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n202/misplacedape/PhotoGrid_1411766647444_zpsfa04b1a2.jpg

some valuable input from somebody who did a bunch of tests:

http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f36/clear-undercoat-1622/index26.html#post366307

thanks adam, guess i'll just have to look harder and call around. and yeah, i had a lot of garage work planned for last winter, but a big volume and only space heaters slowed progress down laughably, lesson learned haha.

also, did you ever rinse mid season with the fluid film on? how much would it come off?

I would start looking for touchless automatic car washes that have the undercarriage sprayers. If you're not going to wash your own car once and a while, this is the best method I can suggest.

i have no problem washing my own car every once in a while. the problem as i perceive it lies in A) accessing the underbody, and, more importantly, B) access to fluid in winter-long sub-freezing conditions. the automatic car washes i tried to go to last winter were closed for the season.

I Fluid Filmed mine last fall since I had found the stuff at a local place while in VA. I bought 3 more cans befor moving back last week. Plan to go over it again soon. It is messy and stinks a little while, but really seems to coat well and keep the frame clean. I plan to do one better and get some of the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating and do that before going nuts with the FF.

 

It looks all glossy and oily at first. but it fades to a more normal look pretty quickly

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a299/iwashmycar/IMG-20131213-00021_zpsaf919fa3.jpg

 

A couple months later....after some more offroading and washing.

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a299/iwashmycar/DE88D01A-0EEA-4D83-ACAA-0F41AF89AC4B_zpss7qfcz1q.jpg

nice - that looks even better than i expected dirty. internal coating does seem worthwhile, especially as a 'while im at it' kind of thing, which is something i think an undercoating at linex would include...

I hate it here in TX, but that is one thing I can't complain about, rust free cars. It's nice going to the junk yard to pull parts and not getting rust in your eye.

its home for me so i cant help but miss it... but i definitely miss rust free cars, and enjoying fun cars all year long

I just want to point out that no amount of prevention will help unless you're regularly washing the salt off the car on a frequent basis. It's a habit you need to get into, and despite prepping the underside of the vehicle, the salt is getting in a lot more places than that.

honestly thats something i just started wondering - whats the best way to clean the underside in the winter? any/all drive through or self serve car wash is going to be closed... i live on a cobblestone street, doable but not pleasant. fingers crossed my buddy might be able to let me use the lift/pressure washer at his work but gonna make a mess

I don't like thick, permanent or semi-permanent coating. In my previous work experience, such coating cracked, chipped, or peeled. It makes moisture trapped between metal and coating, making corrosion process much faster and worse. On my previous truck, it was undercoated by unknown source and the coating was damaged; so salt-ladden moisture was retained.

Any Sprayable application if pounded on and not given proper time to dry between coats will bunch up and crack. Shops that do bed liners, undercoatings and rust proofing ofter dont let the vehicle sit between applications due to time for the job to double. Multiple small coats is key.

 

I washed the underside of my jeep, prepped it, scuffed it, degreased it, scuffed again, applied adhesion promoter, Waterbased Undercoating for a spray application, multiple coats over a 8 hour period, then coated with a clear chip guard. This process allowed the jeep to be lifted from a lift, seal the bottom of the jeep and allow another member on this board to wheel the shit out of the jeep in the hills and valleys of North Carolina without any issues.

 

Its all about applying the right item by the right person.

i agree completely, on both accounts. which is why i like the idea of of the lanolin stuff: basically a long lasting greasy wax that can be applied anywhere, ie even on nuts/bolts, via aerosol; wont wash or fall off but the bulk of it can be removed by wiping if work needs to be done. it would collect dirt and grime, i presume, but keep it isolated on the outside.

Jellowman457 what all typically gets covered when you do an undercoating liek that? i'll try to verify when i call but sounds like a typical professional 'undercoating' isnt really going to be much more than a reseal of the frame, missing a lot of hardware that you wouldnt want to coat with something solid (brake line fittings, suspension pieces, etc). and as you say, introduce a chance of cracking and actually making corrosion conditions worse.

guess im leaning towards just doing the Fluid Film myself. maybe professional undercoating then a touch up with Fluid Film....

Fluid Film

awesome. found lots of info on this online, lanolin-base definitely seems to be the go-to. think i have a pretty good grasp on the trade offs there, i suppose i'll just try to get a call in to line-x and see what i can find out

Contact linex of Lancaster for undercoat.

thanks. any particular reason you mentioned lancaster over the two columbus locations? do you know anyone who has gotten them to undercoat a vehicle?

The very best treatment is to keep the salt from ever touching your "precious metal", as in don't drive it in the winter and until the salt has been completely washed away; I'd wait at least two big rains since the last salt application.

 

If your "precious metal" had to be driven in the salted slush, there is no 100% effective way to keep rust from forming. Heated metals such as a brake rotor and an exhaust pipe/flange/component will corrode even faster. I've turned borderline obsessive by spraying the undercarriage of my daily drivers at home everytime any of them has been driven. Not always possible when temperature is in "deep freeze" range and it surely takes certain infrastructure to be in place.

 

Another story I have hear or read is to spray the undercarriage with light oil. The cheapest is using used motor oil. EPA, and maybe some of your neighbors, will frown upon this. Of course spraying oil on brake friction surfaces or exhaust part exposed to high temperature may carry unwanted and dire outcomes.

not driving in the winter would certainly seem to be the only fool proof answer, however that wont quite work.

if youve turned borderline obsessive about spraying things off with water i would think one round of that spray process with a little bit of preventative/paraffin substance would double your whole season effectiveness.

oil is definitely an answer but i suspect would not sustain under direct spray with very much longevity

i suppose i'll kick things off with what google turned up:

line-x

http://www.linex-ohio.com/undercoating-and-rust-protection

gus's rust prevention

http://www.gussgarage.com/rust-protection/the-benefits/

neither has much detail on what works, rather than explaining why rust prevention is worth your hard earned dollars, so not a lot to go on

i moved here from texas not long ago and in less than a year ive worked on enough ohio cars to have a healthy fear and respect, if not hatred, for rust.

SO, i recently purchased a brand new tacoma as a daily driver, giving me a chance to nip this problem in the bud - since we all know an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, which may be closer to 10 tons when it comes to corrosion. i want to know what is the best treatment to give it to keep that winter time hazmat away from my precious metal. i know there is some factory application (and likely much improved as a result of the billions spent cleaning up the last batch of tacomas)

before i moved here a buddy had recommended LPS-3 for my old subaru. apparently '3' is an aerosol spray, stays tacky and is supposed to be self healing in inside environments. basically take two cans and spray whole underbody. id honestly rather pay someone to do it if i can find a reputable place with a quality process that is worth the money, but if this is the route i need to go for guaranteed prevention, it is what I will do.

any recommendations? places? processes/materials? im asking on here because i would like to hear from the people who have been through the shit, tried things that havent worked, and have tried things that did work.