98WS6

Makes me miss mine. 640/1k 94k miles summit white, Interior/exterior 9/10 zero frame rot. Just needed put together with a new engine harness. It went to a good home/owner in the Mansfield area.

Posting for a buddy so I will provide all the info I have.

 

My buddy bought a 88 crx with a b20/b16 head combo. Ever since he bought the vehicle it's had a nasty idle surge and has been trying to get it to calm down. So far we have done the following

Bled the cooling system

Removed TB, fast idle, IAC and cleaned them,

Adjusted fast idle and idle set screw

Sprayed break clean for leaks, as well as smoke.

 

He is going to replace the fast idle but he is unsure which kind to buy since he is unfamiliar with Hondas and he is unsure which parts interchange with this head.

 

Which IAC,FIAC, throttle body, will work with a JDM B16 head, casting number PR3-4. Because he will replace both of need be, just unsure where to look.

 

 

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Damn you, salty roads! That's a good looking truck.

 

 

 

I'd throw another head on it like Kerry said. Unless you're gaming the system you'd be in over the cost of a reman'd head just in tax title and license on another winter beater!

 

 

 

RockAuto has headgasket kits for $38 (with other intake/exhaust gaskets and seals)...I'm guessing that it shouldn't be too difficult to replace with that open engine bay...

 

 

 

I got a felpro gasket kit that came with the vehicle brand new un opened. I'm not worried about tax and title as I only paid $300 for the vehicle as it sits. Just the price of a reman head on average is roughly $375-$450 plus a radiator as well and a timing kit. I'm sure I'll have less or a little over a grand in the car. My issue is, the time to get it there because funds are limited, plus working 2 jobs in the mechanical field...the last thing I want to do is work on a vehicle on my 2 days off.

 

I have been trying to figure out if the 93+ cylinder heads are a direct bolt on, it's also a 2.6 but the combustion chambers are different. It will add a little more power and those generation heads are not as prone to cracking. I registered on some trooper forums but still no response from anyone.

If the head is a for sure bolt on no modification then I will sink the money, I just don't want to have to deal with this issue every other month with the older style heads.

 

 

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Here is a picture of the truck. The body is really nice. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160802/5fe4fea4e1477410e638d92fc24fb913.jpg

 

 

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I forgot to ask, is it a 2-door or a 4-door?

 

If you have one with a decent body, it's totally worth saving.

 

put a head on it and drive the heck out of it. If you get 3 winters out of it then it cost you $200 per winter to not have to drive your TA.

 

It's a 4 door. The body and interior are mint but the frame has seen better days. It would for sure need patch work after this winter.

I've spent time working recently on a 1983 Chrysler LeBaron that has the Mitsubishi 2.6L in it...might be the longitudinal-to-transverse application Chrysler did to make it work in a K-car but it's not my favorite engine and it's a pain to work on. Is the Trooper carb'd or FI?

 

It's FI. I got the head off last night and cleaned up at work and found cracks in cylinder 2 and 3.

 

Im debating on keeping it and sinking the money into it because it's an ugly vehicle but cool looking. Plus I can't drive my TA In the winter. I've been doing some reading and people have swapped the late 90s model heads on them because they upped the compression and where not as prone to cracking when hot.

So I just purchased a 88 Isuzu trooper with 2.6l 4cylinder in it. It needs a headgasket. Are these a pain to work on. Does anyone have expirence with these cars. The car will strictly be a winter beater. I paid $300 for the car and it has brand new bfg all terains 1 owner. 116k miles. I have read that the heads have tendencies to crack and if that's the case I'll scrap the car and sell the rims/tires.

Theres a company on ebay that sells the same one texas-speed sells. Probably your best bet, although it would have to be ordered online of course.

 

I've seen them on Amazon as well, that's what it's looking like. I was just hoping to be able to put on my full exhaust this weekend.

Looking for a 98-99 3 inch y pipe for A Trans Am. I'm not looking for high dollar brand, an eBay/pacesetter would be just fine. Will pick up. Just Trying to avoid ordering one online.

This came across my feed on Facebook.

 

http://www.autoblog.com/2016/06/27/mid-engine-chevy-corvette-captured-in-broad-daylight/#slide-3962549

I have a Milwaukee M18 with the 5.0 amp hour battery. I can take it to the track and use it it change tires on multiple cars and it never skips a beat. It's also been able to take off the flywheel but on my rotary (spec is 325 ft lbs and slathered in locktite), axle nuts on Andy's Porsche and axle/hub nuts on all of my vehicles.

 

Now that the fuel is out it's a no brainer with even More power. I also have their M12 fuel 3/8" impact and M12 3/8" electric ratchet. The ratchet is a MUST HAVE.

 

 

+1 on the cordless ratchet.

Milwaukee fuel series. My 3/8 m18 will take off and put on wheels, I've used it in a pinch on my TA. But the 1/2 impact is a beast, used it to take lugs off a tractor trailer. Kills the battery but it can be done.

 

I'm unsure what warranty is offered through the store but mine came with a 5year warranty no questions asked on the body and 2years on the battery when ordered through cornwell.

 

In the 1 year I've owned my impacts, guy I work will has sent his snap on lithium in already after 6months and it's still acting up.

anyone have any 275/40 17's for a TA just need 2. Do not have to be a a performance tire. Just need something kinda cheap and able to last me for a few months.

Has anyone tried to register on the website, it will not let me fill out my name etc etc. but all the check boxes work. Id really like to partake in this event.

+1 for pennzoil synchromesh.

I'm not associated with the group that organizes the meets or anything... Just relaying info. You'd have to find them on facebook and throw that suggestion out there.

 

Alrighty, thanks for the heads up

It's being moved. Their were too many cars for the spot it was at last week. New location hasn't been announce yet

 

What about the Front room furnishing next to lindsay acura/ honda. big parking lot. Lindsay i believe owns the property maybe he would let people try it out. There is usually a CPO that sits there, and there is a precinct not but 30seconds from there, maybe that will keep things calm

ill double check my stuff at home, I may still have one from my TA

http://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/5505480775.html

PM SENT

Long story short, I was traveling down 33 and somewhere between diley rd. and the speedway at carrol. i was stopped for speeding *77 in a 60* by an aerial speed trap. Is this worth fighting, from what ive read and been told, both officers have to appear during court, and when asked to provide pictures/info/evidence to prove you where speeding. My ticket states that the clocking officer is also the one who issued the ticket, even tho that is not very possible, and i dont recall seeing any monitored by aircraft signs...doesn mean they arnt posted just dont recall seeing any....Any info/help would be appreciated

Price on 1 7/8 longtubes 98 ws6 fbody

I am in need of 10 or so gallons of unleaded 100 octane. Where can I buy a couple pre-sealed 5 gallons can of C10 or 260gt in the state of ohio?

 

I maybe wrong but i think the Dogwood crossing on rt33 and coonpath has 100oct at the pump.

If the slave was leaking you would see fluid in or around the bell housing. I'm guessing there is still air in the mc. I always bled mine by hand out of the car. It's a pain in the ass but youd be surprised how many little air bubbles still come out even when the peddle gets firm. Have you tried bleeding it on the transmission? If you drive the car hard a new clutch setup may be in order to.

 

I dont drive the car hard because of the issue. Always double clutching between shifts, there is no fluid between the trans and housing though. Half tempted to take it do a dealership or find someone with a vacuum bleeder.

I'm guessing it's a bad slave cylinder. Have you bled it at the slave or just vacuum?

 

Just vacuum through the CMC with a mighty vac. If I had a bad slave wouldn't it leak and give me fluid spots at the trans and bell housing. It never did this until I installed a new CMC. I'm not to far from taking it to Wyler or a local shop and having them bleed it from the slave. I'd bleed it myself but the cutting the hole in the floor is stopping me from doing so