TheManInDboX

If you get to the point that you are going to junk it.. let me know, and i will come get it.. I would otherwise come buy it, but if i did that before Xmas i would find myself living in it..

I know you have likely already pulled the motor.. But.. Are you sure it's not a rattle? Like a flex fan issue hitting a housing, which was common on these, hitting the shroud or a heat shield hitting on something metal under the truck, also common.. Or the very well known Flexplate issues with the 6.2? I would start it, and if you know someone with a lift, look under the truck while it's running.. I would imagine if it were a Knock as you describe, 15K miles would have either made it much worse, or locked it up..

Steve if he wait's long enough it might happen.. But if you search craigslist most of these trucks at top dollar go for 2500 bucks with that kind of mileage.. Anything over that is really unlikely.. Don't mean to burst the bubble.. but i have been looking for a work truck for my home improvement/home depot runs.. and he's way over priced.. Good luck though.. either way..

I know, it's not a quick project, but i have built a variety of 5.0 engines over the years for Fox body mustangs.. And while i would love another one, i can't get 2x4's or sheet rock into one.. and yes, an F150 with the 5.0 already in it, would be easier, but there is a weight difference, as well as a "sleeper" difference that i don't think i would get from an F150. Don't get me wrong the 4.9 300 inline 6 could be built to be as fast, and in some cases faster than a built 5.0.. But the sound.. that intoxicating sound especially with a nice cam.. It's just a project that i have always wanted to do.. Nice build BTW..

So, I am looking into buying a used Ranger or Mazda 2300/2500 pickup.. 2wd extended cab.. I was curious if anyone on here has any good points to look for on these things for rust? I know the cab mounts, rear suspension shackles, and the cab corners are all things to look at for rust.. but is there any other locations like on the old Fox platform where the strut towers would rot at the sub frame? If anyone has any helpful details on this, that would be great.. Also i am 6'2".. does anyone know when the cab's changed size on those trucks? Plans: I need a truck for home improvement things.. getting lumber, tools, and other stuff for outside.. But i plan on building a 5.0 to swap into it.. So it must be a 2.3 or 2.5 ford/mazda 2wd ranger/B series.. The 2.3/5 uses the same motor mounts as the Fox convertible, as all fox convertibles start life as a 2.3 Notch.. So parts to do the swap will be much easier going this route.. Anyway.. i hopefully am posting this in the right location.. Lastly.. anyone know what i should pay for one of these in decent shape.. (presumably rust free)

I have no idea.. Really wish i recorded the calls i had with the lawyer and GM during the process of getting some of my money back.. I have all the 50+ pages of the service records, and the VIN of the Volt i owned.. i will see if i can upload them somehow.. So you can see the evidence.. including the Car fax from before, and after i had it.. It's crazy how they get away with this.. Though i learned a lot during the process.. 1. GM pays it's techs for 45min of work per car, no matter if it is fixed or not.. they don't pay additional for taking your time and doing it right, and if the car can't be diagnosed within 15min of you bringing it into the dealership, the tech doesn't get paid at all.. 2. Warranties mean absolute nothing.. since new cars have to generate a code, before anyone will listen to an issue.. found myself having to record the issues as i drove.. They attempted to "Jack Maxton" tell me that since there was no code, the worm gears in the steering linkage separation was normal.. 3. I will never buy another car again that i can't work on myself.. Ultimately i learned you can't trust anyone, and you are better off f'ing things up in the process of learning to repair them, than you are ever bringing a car to a dealership, or service center.. (No offence to any of the mechanics on here.. i say mechanics, because mechanics actually fix cars, and tech's read codes)

I agree.. Lucore is a good place to go.. have used them before for things i didn't want to do myself..

Should probably add this in.. GM does not have to report a used car being resold as a lemon.. In other words in the state of Ohio GM has the right to sell used cars that were lemon returns without disclosing it was a lemon.. GM also has the right to not disclose all service records, so when you do a car fax, if a car was in the shop 100 times in a year, it may only show the scheduled oil changes.. I found all this out when i got the lawyer and sued GM.. Ford/Slowpar/etc.. all under federal law have to disclose this information in the state of Ohio.. Just not GM..

Good luck buddy... I owned a 2012 Volt, which might go down in history as being the worst possible car ever produced.. Not only was it stupid expensive to run in the winter, but the constant repairs and broken parts was just incredible.. History: Purchased the car Certified Pre-Owned with 11K miles on it, in 2014. Paid 8,995 bucks for it.. figured how bad could it be.. In the summer, it was nice, loved the low end torque, loved the seats, and the space age electronics. Finicky at times, but still kinda cool.. Unfortunately the joy was short lived.. In the year i owned it i drove 18K miles, but not on the volt, i only put 6k miles on the volt in the year, due to the rest of the miles being put on GM rental cars, due to a constant flow of problems.. The first was the keyless start, the interior key module broke about 14 times that year, and the result of it breaking is, it wouldn't start after being plugged in, and wouldn't turn off after getting where you wanted to go. The Climate control broke, and wouldn't either heat or cool the car, both were replaced under warranty, only took 3 weeks to get the parts. The coolant system started to leak after that, and required them to replace some parts under the car, the dealership didn't drop the exhaust the correct way, which put a kink in it, and caused the pipe to crack before the cat, leaking exhaust into the car when driving, they replaced that shortly after with a new full exhaust system. The next fun time event was the steering column which actually separated in the worm gearing causing me to be able to spin the wheel at 60MPH on the highway without turning in any direction. Which resulted in a new column, would have been nice, but they replaced it with the same part and told me there is a known issue on all first generation volts, where over time the gearing pulls apart, and will cause the same issue.. so it's not if, it is when.. there was never a recall on it.. it's a TSB, and only affects certain cars.. The electrical system shorted out my house, which nuked the circuit in my home where the car was plugged in and melted the charger to the outlet.. GM indicated this was an issue with the first revision of the charging system. They replaced the charging cord.. and i had to pay out of pocket 2K to have the home electrical system fixed.. The Charge port door would stick, and not open, as a result it would throw a code, they indicated that the charge button needed to be pressed for 20 seconds to release the door correctly.. than wtf is the point of the button on the key.. shortly after that the engine developed a nice knock, which was due to a head gasket blow. Conveniently you could still drive on full electric, but in the first models the engine would automatically kick in to heat the car in the cold, so they told me to just drive it like that.. at 13K miles they replaced the engine under warranty. The electric windows next stopped working, and the air bag switch malfunctioned and caused the cars air bags to randomly enable and disable.. the door switch failed, telling the me door was open when it wasn't. The gas tank pressure system failed next, which caused the engine to die and when you were out of EV it would buck until it stopped, requiring the dealership to come scoop that pile of crap off the side of the road.. The last straw was when the head unit died, and due to the code, they told me it wasn't covered under certified warranty.. due to the programming on the unit, it is a 6K dollar replacement.. I ended up getting a lawyer and Suing GM for the time out of work, cost of rentals, and loss in resale due to all the issues.. won 12K dollars.. traded it in on a Toyota.. really hope you have better luck.. and don't have the same steering column issue.. In total the car was in the shop 47 times in 10 months.. As per the MPG.. It's not as good as anyone tells you.. it is possible that maybe my Volt was just f'd up... which isn't or wouldn't be a surprise.. But.. The first generation volt does 28 miles a charge, roughly.. (Summer-City Under 50mph) at .07 per KWh it would take 12 hours to charge on 120V. Cost total minus transmission fees was .84 per 28 miles.. Highway it would do about 13 miles a charge at .07 per Kwh or .84 a charge. Winter: 9 Miles per charge, charging is more expensive in the winter, as the recharge system in a volt has to run the coolant heater to keep the batteries at a specific temp. So that .84 is more like 1.00 a charge at 9 miles.. add in the cost of keeping the heater on in the car at 67 degrees and it's more like 7 miles per charge (city).. Compare that cost to a toyota Camry which is not only about 20K less expensive to begin with new.. But just in MPG i get 32MPG city and 38MPG highway with the heat at 100+ (i like heat) So that all being said.. The Volt in the winter at .07KWh = 1.00 per 9 miles traveled.. Toyota Camry in winter 32 miles per 1.80 per gallon.. Volt gas equivalent is 3.55 per 32 miles driven.. (That's only on electric cost, not adding in the cost of gasoline.. So... I just don't understand the point?

Can you tell me if the body is OK? I saw the pics on Clist, and i am curious if the Rockers are rotten? Also is there a big dent in the body behind the passenger's door, or is that a reflection? Would be a good shell for a 4efte if the body is good..

Dammit.. And i was going to add the other half of the cars..

Thing is.. While it was "Cool" or at least i thought it was.. It wasn't finished.. My plans originally were to have a friend of mine do a mural on it.. they were going to originally do a black and white pin-up style woman up the side of it.. since to me it looked like a fuselage of a bomber.. than i was going to clear coat it.. but they never had the time to actually work on it.. so i ended up doing none of that.. really wish i had finished it though.. Hey it was a vision.. and it was different..

I have had a few.. two SVO 80's foxes.. a 5.0 80's fox convertible and a 2009 Roush 429R packaged one.. I honestly just want to start with the engine.. Once spring comes i will be starting to look for a 5.0 out of an explorer to purchase.. (want the GT40 or GT40P heads) and do a full build.. Once i have that done, than i will start to look for a donor to drop it in.. Still not sure i want another mustang.. honestly think i would like to swap it into a ranger.. figure the 8.8 should fit in it from the explorer, and with some minor welding and fabrication work, i should be able to get the engine and some mounts in a ranger body easy.. The issue i am having now, looking isn't the engines, i found a few local cheap.. but the Ranger Pickup bodies are all rusty.. I really don't want a rust pit that i have to spend months fixing.. that sucks..

Looks pretty rust free.. Honestly might be worth it just for the chassis to swap anything into it... I mean anything.. other than Electric.. And as an added bonus you get a back-up motor for your washing machine..