JoeNova

I host them in Piqua fairly often. Its hard getting enough people to show up if you're not one of the big players on the area.

When you find an F-body T56 for that price, it usually includes everything. Bell housing, clutch, shifter, mount, slave cylinder, etc. Otherwise they're closer to $1500. For $3200 for a T56 magnum, you still have to buy clutch/flywheel, shifter, bellhousing, slave cylinder, mount, speed sensor, etc. $3k? You'll be in it $4500+ all said and done, making an F-body T56 less than half the cost.

400 flywheel HP 5.3/60e swap I did in a 69 Chevelle on a $2500 TOTAL budget: The 5.3: -F-body pan and pickup tube. Modified the stock truck windage tray. -Achor Mounts part #2142. $3/each from Summit, $6/each at local parts store. -ICT Billet Mounts part #551628. $35/pair from Summit. -LS1 MLS head gaskets, part #12498544. $38/pair at Summit. -Stock LS7 lifters, less than $100 on ebay. -Howards single beehive springs part #98113, $120/set from Summit. -Howards 222/225 112 LSA Cam. My GO-TO for mild 5.3. Part #190245-12, $360 from Summit. -Speed Engineering 1 3/4" A-body headers part #25-1025-1, $250. -Dorman Power steering Pulley, part # 300-201, $19. -91" 6-rib belt, works great with the small case alternator and Dorman PS pulley. For Trans: -$400 rebuilt 4L60e -TCI Fastgate shifter -Stock Driveshaft shortened 5" -2200 stall converter -Stock trans crossmember, moved back a couple of inches. Drilled 1 hole for Mount. Fuel: -Inline Walbro 255 -Vette filter and regulator -20' of Summit Twist-tite -6 AN Pushlok hose. -ICT billet pushlok fittings. -Unmodified stock tank, stock pickup goes to fuel pump, return goes into a vent. -Returnless truck rails. Cooling: -Stock 2000 truck upper radiator hose. -F-body fans (they fit these radiators perfect). -40-amp self-resetting breaker runs both fans at the same time. Everything else stock. The exhaust on the car was 2" crimp-bend exhaust, 1 5/8" at the bends. It has a 2.56 rear gear ratio. First gear tops out at 70, 3rd at 130 lol! The results? 312whp, 320 ft-lbs at the wheels on the heartbreaker dyno through a 2" crimp bent exhaust thats 1 5/8" at the bends, and an unlocked auto trans. It drives like a STOCK 5.3. ______________________________________________________ Want a manual trans? Tons of options. -NV3500 -LT1 T56 +$500 to convert to LS1 T56. -LT1 T56 and something to cut the bellhousing to bypass the LS1 conversion. -LS1 T56 -CD009 with adapter plate -Any old GM 4-speed, just put on a big block bellhousing. Want a T56 magnum? Get a TR6060 from a Camaro for about the same price as a T56. Its the GM production version of the T56 Magnum. They can be used with a few parts. There's two considerations when it comes to 4.8/5.3/6.0. Power and Cost. The larger engines will make more power. EVERY part you have to buy for a swap, and every aftermarket part you buy aside from rotating assembly will likely be 100% interchangeable between all 3 engines, so there will be no added cost for a 6.0 compared to a 4.8. The only added cost will be the initial purchase. So for the $2500 5.3/60e swap that makes 400 HP, I could have spent another $600 and picked up a 6.0 and made 450 HP on the same setup. $3100 for a 450 HP 6.0/60e swap.

Coltboostin told me to join here. But yeah, we've talked quite a bit.

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Ebay. 80cc bicycle kit comes with everything you need to convert a bicycle to an 80cc engine. Gas tank, chain/sprockets, engine and mounts, etc. Will do ~40 mph and get over 100 mpg. Kits can be had for $90 shipped. Not a centrifugal setup. You'll need to pedal up to 5 mph or so and slip the clutch to start it. I put one in my daughters power wheels. Drifts pretty good now.

L92 never had DoD. The 2010+ L92 variant with DoD was actually the L94. A real L92 is basically an LS3 with truck manifolds and VVT.

I have some 180 degree headers made up for an LS1 in a rat rod. Sound should be close.

The 388 is basically an LS7 with an LS3 crank. So the obvious budget option would be to take an LS3 and just overbore it to an LS7 bore diameter. Get an early L92 if you want to do it cheap.

Not sure where you are located, but I have a low miles TBSS converter in Middletown I'd sell fairly cheap. Or a stock 60e converter you can have.

I'll probably have to make another post somewhere on the car soon. It looks nothing like whats in that old picture. I've been working on paint and cage for a few days now. Then its rear wing, brakes, wheels/tires, seats/harnesses, new suspension bushings, and hopefully then I'll have a complete chassis ready to go before the month is over. Everything is bought and paid for. Its just labor now.

22 lbs on the 2-step/antilag knocked the vents out of my garage ceiling with it on the run stand. The aluminum 5.3 in my Nova seems to be pretty happy right around 24 lbs so the 4.8 should be fine at 22. Hoping it makes ~800 wheel at 22 lbs.

I took an unwanted car. Turned it into a ridiculous toy, and have since turned it into a monster. Its not my only car. I do this crap all of the time.

Research and patience. Nothing is paid for unless I know its the best bang/buck. I do all of the design/fab/tuning. Once in a while I call in a favor, like having a buddy mount and balance my tires. Cost breakdown is pretty simple: -Car: FREE. Paid $1500, parting out to break even. -Engine: $200. Bought engine and trans together. Sold trans and wiring/PCM. -Complete Turbo Setup: $1500. Most from ebay. Piping from Columbia River. -Microsquirt: $390. Got the 8' generic harness. Got all of the connectors from spare harness. -Fuel System: $500. Cell/lines/fittings/Pump/Injectors -Parts to mount engine: $260. LS1 Pan, converter hub adapter, mount adapters -Cooling: $285. Rad/hoses/belts/fans. -Trans: $365. Turbo 400, yoke, converter, shifter. Total: ~$3500. Since then is a different story. I've bought $4600 worth of parts so far this year and it definitely shows.