nurkvinny

I had a Kenwood CD player lose its high level outputs (the regular speaker wire looking outs) and the low level outs (RCAs) still worked fine.

 

The repair estimate on it was around $100; not as high as yours, but still way too much to dump into a used head unit.

 

Wish I would have read this thread a little sooner; I just sold an amp and a good friend also just sold one.

 

Your repair estimate would buy one hell of a used amp. Maybe you can just take half of that and buy yourself a nice amp.

 

If ya do buy one and want a nice sub, I got one for sale in the Garage Sale section.

 

Good luck.

15 is usually Coolant Sensor

Originally posted by Kip Ricker:

I have an LT4 in my corvette and its a 5.7, I was wondering where I could get it bored out to a 7.0.

I hate it when people talk about a stroker motor as a 'bored' motor. I know a stroker motor can be and usually is bored, I just hate hearing, "Yep, I bored my 350 to a 383." graemlins/doh.gif

 

Here's a 7.0 small block for ya:

http://www.dragstuff.com/parts/1032.html

I was going to say "GM also threw the TH400 in burbans". Then, I read the 4 speed comment.

Yep, 700r4.

I agree man, that's a lot of $$ for that work.

You can probably find a lot better deals if you ask around on CR if you ever need more work.

Good luck with the car.

Sluggish transmission; an automatic 'missing gears'; a strange smell; a bogged down engine.

 

Hmm. Maybe do a trans filter / fluid change and hope for the best.

Also, maybe yank that catalytic converter off and remove its guts, then put it back in - just to test if it's good of course. A f'ed up converter can cause power drain and cause funky smells.

Rev limiter on an 89 Cutlass?

What's the trans fluid look and smell like. In other words, does it look black or smell burnt?

More from the web :

 

Most of the time I see this code the sensor is unplugged. But I have done some wiring repairs also for this problem.

If the sensor is reading a very strange number like -40 degrees than the computer is seeing an open circuit and defaulting to the negative number. If you jumper the 2 wires together the sensor reading should go high! If it does than you have a bad sensor if not you have a broken wire.

....................

From a GM repair forum:

 

The MAT (manifold air temperature) sensor is located to the rear of the intake manifold slightly to the left. (Driver’s side)

"or give up and pay $100 dollars for a balljoint press"

 

I was just answering your question.

The above suggestion about AutoZone is a great idea.

Give up and pay for it to be done right.... if you want it to last.

Originally posted by I brake for no one:

Not all imports are Hondas.

 

CR has more import owners than domestic owners graemlins/trout.gif

Swinging the fish at the new guy?

 

Meany

 

Originally posted by rl:

Sounds like the thermostat is sticking.

 

Which car?

+2 on changing the stat.

 

Air bubbles can also play havic on your guage.

Valve guides can't be changed without pulling the heads. I would start with changing valve seals . Pretty quick and easy with the right tools. Plus, they're less than 10 bucks.

 

First, loosen the lock nut that holds on the rocker enough to move the rocker out of the way.

There's a tool that screws into your spark plug hole that is on the end of an air line. This fills your cylinder with compressed air. This holds your valves up.

Take a valve spring compressor and compress the spring. Remove valve locks (holds spring retainer on). Remove spring.

You may have o-ring seals, umbrella seals, or both. Replace the seal(s). Reinstall spring, reinstall locks / retainer, uncompress the spring.

It's a good idea to GENTLY tap the top of the valve to make sure everything is seated correctly.

Reinstall rocker.

The toughest part is readjusting the valve lash. This might be tough if you have never had to do this, but it's not that bad.

 

Hope this helps.

 

[ 10. September 2003, 11:30 PM: Message edited by: nurkvinny ]

Originally posted by YMN:

ya, it's a 4.3

 

the ball joints, how hard are they to replace if they do go out?

Medium to hard IMO. Ours was a 1989 4x4. Had to cut out the rivots. It was a pain in the ass, but probably would have been fairly cheap at a suspension shop; I just wanted to see if I could do it.

I would buy another one though. I really like driving it. It towed a decent amount, went great in the snow, and the back seat lays all the way down.... graemlins/leghump.gif

Originally posted by YMN:

I'm thinking about picking one up. It's cheap, but I was woundering what kind of problems they have etc.... any input would be cool. Thanks!

Watch for bad ball-joints and leaking gas tanks. Are you looking at a 4.3?

This is only a trick that works MOST of the time if everything is set up like stock. Turn dist. so that cap position 1 and 8 are aimed straight forward. Cap #1 should be pointed directly towards plug #1 - farthest to the front on driver's side.

This is usually close enough to start the engine. All this is assuming the dist. was dropped in straight to begin with, but might be worth a try.

Originally posted by crx34:

It's rubber hose, cut, and hose clamped onto the aluminum 't'. It's a fuel injected b16 in a crx. So, is there too much pressure? If so, what needs to change, the fittings, new fuel line?

Screw style clamps + high pressure lines don't mix. Invest in compression fittings. No idea style or quantity your application needs. Did he get by with this set up for a while with no leaks?

I am wondering if any of you have purchased replacement molded carpets for your cars? Not just floor mats or cargo mats, but the whole deal - carpet, pads, liners, etc.

 

If so, can anyone recommend a good company? Looking for quality, not necessarily the cheapest.

 

Thanks.

What kind of car?

If it's the Buick in your sig, and you have rear struts, camber is adjustable during strut replacement by changing the position of the upper strut mounting studs in relation to the body (the holes are oblong).

 

[ 27. August 2003, 10:49 PM: Message edited by: nurkvinny ]

Good heads up - I just saw a minivan get pulled over in that area, just North of that mulch company today ..... smile.gif

My $.02 - I have used Gatorback's on everything from the grocery getter to the race truck and have had nothing but great results.....

Nothing wrong with OEM, but these MIGHT save ya some green.