Joe

this all sounds pretty good. I have a few ideas on the water injection, but just need turbo CFM and the efficiency rating of a rotary engine. I wonder if BSFC would come into play for this. I am still looking for an NPR, if you guys see one, let me know! Brian, Jegs has electric fans up to 2500 cfm (for a double fan unit, for 200 dollars. Not bad, and maybe Nick can "hook me up?" smile.gif

Mark, I have a few questions regarding the NPR intercoolers and water injection. The tanks on the intercoolers are cast, which we all know is a porous material, but will it really matter? If it does, i was going to do something like paint them with a quality paint or perhaps an undercoating, to seal them up. We are not looking for heat transfer from the tanks to the air, just from the core. As for water injection, have you located any of the parts for me? I was wondering if the aquamist would flow enough for what i would be using it for. I am not sure about the CFM of my turbo, but i know detonation is a bad thing. Call me and we can hit up applebees or S&S and further discuss this..... Anyone else on here have an idea about either? I will be running a 50/50 water/alcohol mix, and probably add a 5 second shot of WD40. I know the Buick guys run straight alcohol, but my kit is going to be serving 2 purposes, knock quench, and added intercooling effect. Let me know......

does it run rough? smoke out the tailpipe? anything else its doing thats weird?

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Stolen UFO: kenny ur such a hater joe is just trying to build a firebird type r like they have in japan geesh bwhahaha <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> another closet ricer?! tongue.gif

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Stolen UFO: What? The engine or the whole car? lol<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> let me get my powder coating kit then we can decide that!

Actually, i painted Kenny's engine! tongue.gif As for the paint, making sure you have a clean base is important, perhaps there was a bit of solvent left on that part of the block. Unless it is cleaned with soap and water after the hot tank, this is very possible. I still say you powder coat it!

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Stolen UFO: hehehe All I've got is a little ol' downpipe, an exhaust everyone says is too restrictive, and a boost controller that isn't even hooked up right. Heck, you've even got that fancy, high tech replacement computer and everything. tongue.gif Maybe *I* should wait for more mods! <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> yea, like you need to mod the car more!! then again, my dorito isnt here yet tongue.gif

the idea behind squish, as mark stated, is to reduce detonation. By getting the air/fuel away from the outside of the combustion chamber, preignition is sort of being eliminated, as there will not be 2 flame fronts. The spark will ignite the mixture, and then it burns completely. Mark, polishing the top of the piston and combustion chamber is another VERY effective way to eliminate preignition.

ZC swap or LSVTEC. also, check out www.turbohonda.com

usually, wheel hop results form a suspension that is too stiff. Picture this: you give the car throttle, and the weight gets transfer to the back. This is forcing the tires to the ground. Once the "hit," and they will, if the suspension is to stiff, the springs are just going to "pull" them back off the ground. THis is wheel hop. If you have a suspension that is too soft, weight transfer will happen at the wrong time, and the tires will spin uncontrolably. A good set of lift bars (NOT slapper bars) can help the RWD wheel hop problems. During acceleration, the pinion is wanting to rotate up, causing the springs to bind, which pull the tire back up off the ground when they unwind. The Lift Bars will use the axle's twisting motion to lift up on the body and plant the tires. South Side Machine makes a good product, and sine you are buying them, might as well get the sub frame connectors!

i dont think so. MOPAR heads fit MOPARS. if thats an AMC 390, it wont work. besides, it was FORD who made the 390, heh.

its a no-go on the exhaust. all my connections at monroe muffler and brake have quit working there. sorry.....

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 20G TSi: your ideal of practical and mine are obviously two different things [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: 20G TSi ]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> From kenny: Sounds like. [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: More Tools Than Columbus Racing ]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by kenny: 20G TSi: Streetable and practical are two different things. He said he wanted a driver, so anything insane is out of the question. I was just giving him a motor that would make good power, and get some gas mileage. If you want something insane... "454+.060 = 467 -TRW # 2399 pistons with Speed Pro file fit rings -10.0 - 10.7 CR depending on deck height, final combustion chamber volume and head gasket used. -Clevite bearings - mains, rod and cam -Fel-Pro gaskets -GM 3/8" rods with ARP bolts and GM crank(cast is fine at this level) with ARP main studs and GM windage tray -Moroso 6-Quart kicked-out pan # 20401 with pickup # 24440 -Melling oil pump -Manley or DynaGear double roller timing chain -#215 closed chamber oval port heads '67 - '68 with 2.19 / 1.88 valves, gasket matched and bowls blended -Performer RPM Q-Jet Manifold with GM lifter valley splash shield -Q-Jet carb with 75 main jet, 45B primary rod, AX secondary rods and B hanger -1/2" phenolic 4-hole spacer -GM carb heat shield -Ultradyne 288 / 296 hydraulic cam with matching springs - double w/damper. cam specs are 231I / 239E duration @ .050 with .550 / .575 lift ground on a 110LSA. Install on a 108 intake centerline -Rockers - either crane steel long slots or a roller. Isky are the best aluminum, Crower the best Stainless steel. Neither are needed at the power level. -3/8" one piece pushrods Crane or Comp -MSD ignition- 6AL box, coil and distributer(optional-allows easy curve adjustment) -Headers - 1 3/4" PRIMARY TUBE WITH 3" collectors. Remove collector(cut off) and install(weld) Flowmaster Scavenger Collectors # C-134214300 -3" headpipes with 3" crossover and 2 1/2" tailpipes. All bends to be mandrel. Use Flowmaster Big Block mufflers 3" in and out, offset - offset (quietest performance muffler) or DynoMax Oval RaceMagnum. -Mallory Comp 140 fuel pump, regulator and filter plumbed to stock 3/8" fuel line. -Mobil 1 10W-30 oil, Ford type F trans fluid and Mobil 1 gear lube -indexed spark plugs With a turbo 400, ATI 10" converter, 3.73 gears and either slicks or DOT slicks this combo will run 11.60's to 11.90's depending on weather, tuning and driver. My best was 11.49 @ 115 in mine shaft air weighing 4000+ lbs. on pump gas. This combo is fully streetable and was regularly driven to the track some 140 miles away and 2+ hours(one way) on a weekly basis. It was driven anywhere, never over heated and got 12-13 MPG on the highway with a lite foot. Set the total timing to 36 degrees and shift at 5800 for best ET. For my current combo just substitute a Comp cams street roller 238I / 244E duration @ .050, Performer RPM Air-Gap(not worth any ET), Holley 950 or 1000HP, 4.10 gear, lose the tailpipes and raise the shift point 200 RPM to 6000 and you'll run high 10's. Just don't forget things like a roll bar, SFI balancer, SFI bell housing shield, non-clip axles, and a real good suspension / tire package." That should get the job done. [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: kenny ]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> yea, that will work too

STOCK bore. .030" overbore = jack shit Trick Flow G2 heads KB 10.5:1 pistons Engle .480/.485 270/272 hydraulic cam Summit 1.6 rockers Weiand Stealth intake long tube 1 3/4 3" collector headers Z28 PINK rods Stock Z28 crank ARP bolts Clevite 77 bearings Holley 750 carb with 75 jets all the way around balanced within 1/2 gram using TCI balancer Combo good for 410hp according to Krebb Engineering who built the 350 in my friends 79 Camaro. With a 700R4, 2800 stall locking converter, 28 inch tall tires car gets 22mpg on the highway, runs 13.73@101.5 and tops out at over 170mph.

Screw PB Blaster! every good mechanic will tell you to use the Blue Tipped Wrench!! (oxy-acetylene torch for the non garage oriented)

i will find out tuesday, my brotha

I installed a new limited slip unit and 3.55s in a 87 mustang gt in 4 hours with help, lift, and all the proper tools. getting the pattern in is the hardest part, besides the dame crush sleave!

berto i had a 55 shot and ran a 14.39@98. i was stupid with mine, and it ended up costing me. ALWAYS listen to the company is my new moto!!