APCh8r

leave the stock filter in, I would suggest a -1/+1 for gearing. I think the PC can be beneficial even with stock pipe and filter if you get a decent tune as the bikes are tune down for emissions, I would do smog block off plates also though before you do a tune.

Yes you need it

cut it to where you can go anywhere between 45-47 in the rear. You will want to be able to change out your rear sprocket for different tracks.

you will need to grind down one of the old rivets on the stock chain then press it out with your chain tool. Make sure you measure many times to make sure you have the right length on the new chain, better to start off longer if you are not sure then go short. If you have any questions feel free to call. What gearing did you go with?

He hasn't had a good history with people as of recently...check the WERA forums along with many others.

I would get a SV before an F4i, alot more parts and setup info.

Yeah the new ones are actually pretty popular.

Had a great time, no one in our group went down so that is always a plus. Good to see some friends I haven't seen in awhile and always good to get back on the track. The race school was a good experience and I really need to work on my race starts. Hope to go back to the event at the end of august.

I would run B front and rear for your bike, I don't think you will like the V front until you get some more experience. The V dives in alot quicker then the B.

added it for you. I still say go with pures/ 2CT's

Shinko's are not meant for racing, not even their "race tire" they are not speed rated properly and they are garbage anyways. SportBike Tire Service (STT Tire Division) has a bunch of deals on Michelin's. Plus as stated before 2CT's can be had at a good price now. As far as Power One's, they are the replacement for the Power Race. There are two versions, the commercial and true competition model. Commercial versions is what can be purchased from stores & dealerships. Competition models can only be purchased from race distributors. The Commercial model is a great tire and can be ran without tire warmers. Honestly if you could get a set of 2CT's I would pick those up as those will last you a lot longer then the race tires, and at your pace you don't need to be on a race compound anyways.

I will be there, for those of you I haven't met stop by and say hi. Zorro get ahold of me when you get there Saturday morning.

Michelin FTMFW!

Gates usually open at 3, at least that is how it was last year with STT.

Because from what I have heard the dynojet ones suck and the threads blow out. There is a guy on WERA that makes them for $30, I just have to get the measurements of what I need.

QS & IM on the way, got to figure out measurements and get a shift rod made.

Why are you selling everything?

Bump, correction - evidently I need the pull style and not the push to keep standard shift. Sorry for the mix up.

I never rode your bike, so I can't say I have experience it...nice try though.

Looking for a QS and shift rods for a 2006 R6 standard shift. The part numbers from dynojet's website are as followed: PCIII USB Pressure Shift Sensor (Push Type) - 4-101 Shift Rod A - 32104060 Shift Rod D - 32105030 Let me know what you have, quality, conidition, price and pictures. Thanks, Nick

I am hopefully going to go, waiting on the weather to see how it will look. Hoping some others are also going.

Look at Putnam, as that is probably your closest option being in dayton.

Thanks for the event, and thats how we roll, we come in full force:D Hope to see some of you guys out there soon.

From the other articles I have read they are saying it was $250K, not $500K.

I will later on, I need to get them loaded and edit them.