dustinsn3485

Ok nevermind, I'll find other ways to get the information I need. It was my intention that a forum is to be helped not criticized. Maybe it's not a good idea or safe. However it is a question and if I knew the information I would say what I knew add my .02 and let it be.

I'm not wanting a block of forged aluminum (which I did say in my first post) I'm wanting a blank. If I just wanted a block of material that's easy to be found, finding a blank is something a company manufacturers and then the consumer buys the blank and cuts the middle.

Notice I didn't say what size do I need, I said where can I find them that is a reliable company. And I'm not doing it myself I don't have the skills, however my father leases out a building to a person who does and can and said if I buy the blank he will.

So does anyone know where to buy some forged aluminum wheel blanks for motorcycles. I'm wanting to cut my own wheels.

I never have much looked into prices for a blank, but it can't be much I wouldn't think?

I'm just wanting to replace my stock wheels on my '01 ZX 6R.

Ok I don't know why some are big and others aren't, but anyway here's what I got.

Stand by...I screwed this up

I was there for about 4 hours today. Took 35 pics so I'll try to get what I took put up sometime soon. I thought it was a pretty good show.

I wish e-bay was what it used to be. I'd bid on the Wii and see what happens. However considering e-bay sucks now with all the people waiting until 4 seconds, I use e-bay no more.

Good luck with your sales!

OK...I dont expect anything for free.

The fact that I could have asked you for $3 is the exact same, minus a storefront....Bolts was going to pocket the money for using HW tools to remove my screws. I took my toolkit out to take off your seat....You should have paid me. Nothing is free. My time is as valuable as Bolts.

Fact of the matter is, 95% of the tools that are used at that shop and in service are that of the mechanic. How do I know, I've worked there. So assuming one of Bills drill bits did break removing a bolt. He has to replace it. But lets say he get's the screw out and the threads are trashed, now he's got to chase the thread and hope it's not so chewed up that it needs to be re-tapped and heli-coiled. So what was a 5 minute job for your "$10 thanks for helping me charge" is now an hour charge. And let's remember he get's paid for only the labor he is clocked in on too.

While I was there I helped a few people out breaking the bead on a tire or this or that. Sometimes depending upon how long it took I asked for 5 or 10 bucks or just said don't sweat it.

One more note, let's remember that if they still have work like they did when I was there, he was probably stopping work on another bike that he was in the process of working on to help you out.

Good God!! still with carburators??

I've tried to talk myself into selling it. I just can't. I have to much fun tinkering with them. The bike is still friggin fast. And for me to fix a dead spot at 8000RPM all i gotta do is a needle adj I would need a computer and a PCIII on a FI bike...I.E. Carb's are cheap to work on!

again +1

Dustin, I packed mine with carbon fiber materials and then I packed the carbon fiber materials with the OEM packing material and make them as tight as possible. Then, I have the inner core special ordered and they come drilled. I hope your inner core diameter was the same with the exh. pipe, doesn't it? Result: Stock look, +4 to 6hp w/ PCIII, and 2 lbs. less. than OEM mufflers

I hope my OEM packing material can handle the heat because during the dyno tune, Joe made flames shooting out of the exh. tips. :metal:

Yeah, I machined it myself. The inner dia. is the same as that of the exhaust. Just by the butt dyno I've gained some power, but I've never put it on a dyno to compare a before and after. I like the stock look, but the custom sound and of course the power gain that seem's to be are a plus.

As for packing that sounds about like what I'll be doing. I can shoot flames out of mine, but that's mostly because I'm a little rich on the top end still. Trying to fine tune my jetting still. These carb'ed bikes take a bit more finesse than the PCIII.

twin, correct. I machined a piece of aluminum. It has a 3" inner diameter.

So what's a good packing? Money isn't much of an issue. Durability is.

Does anybody here have experience with exhaust packing etc. I've got an '01 ZX-6 and have built a slip-on for it. So for the past month or so I just used fiberglass insulation. However I'm looking for something a bit more permanent to wrap the inner core with. I'm using the stock can and machined an inner core. So, as oppsed to the inner core filling up the entire can, I've now got about 1 - 1.5 inches of empty space between the core and the outer can.

Is it advisable to wrap the core until it is extremely tight to fit into the can, or better to leave a bit of space?

What type of packing works best?

Thanks

Probably thinking of Bill at HNW. I was a tech there for about 6 months. Even as an employee I was satisfied with the quality of work done there. Bill and Brad, the senior tech's, really know a lot about bikes.

While I am an OSU fan and really bummed. I gotta hand it to ILL. They played a perfect game. 1 penalty and had control of the ball what 75% of the game. Granted there were 2 touchdowns that should not have been...they weren't called so it doesn't matter.

Carb sync's have to be done at operating temp (180'ish) Then just use your sync guage and have them all read the same pressure. I'm a bit north of dayton.

So what exactly are you wanting to check, I'm a tech at a dealership. Synching carbs are pretty simple, you most likely did it correct

Ok how do you delete messages, I'm deleting what i typed. Just realized it's already been posted after reading through the thread.

I think a buddy and I are going to ride the bikes up on Sat. Takin the backroads there. 55 to 36 to 42