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900Z1

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Posts posted by 900Z1

  1. I didn't think going into it that it wasn't going to be hard, nor that I would be without worry or stress.. But I was surprised.

    I was out that way with a group of my friends who recreationaly race Auto-X and such, and one of their friends who was on a bike (thank god that I wasn't the only rider). Because they had all been there before I got left behind several times, which really wasn't appreciated, but the other rider paced me slowing down in the straight aways so if shit happened we both were somewhat covered.

    Had a blast, but it definitely let me know where my riding stands. I hate to make it sound like I was cocky going into it, because I don't think that I was.. but this made me feel like it was my first day on a bike.

    The worst feeling ever is looking at an ambulance in my lane doing 35+ right after a turn.. I almost shit myself.

    9am-10pm, 2 and a half tanks later I'm worn the fuck out and the only thing on my mind is beer.. Cold beer.

    I may or may not have some pictures later.. I need to find out who had a camera.

    Next time your on 555 South, go to SR 78, you will have a blast on the twisties

  2. Went to Trails, 20 beans to get in, 4 bucks for a coke, 4 for a Brat, saw a top fuel run 4.05 letting off 3/4 of the way. Not a whole lot of peps there so I left and went for a ride. Might go by there tomorrow.

    If you have an AMA card it's 10 to get in. For one day............

  3. I ride a Suzuki, but I'm Kawasaki to the bone. Wanted a ZX14 but no Kawasaki dealer wanted to deal. I have owned over 50 motorcycles and like them all Except tattoo bikes. I wouldn't own a Harley if they were 5 for a dollar, with the exception of an XR750 flat track. Then I would pay a Dollar for it.

  4. Tighten chain while on side stand, or better yet have a friend set on seat and tighten. Then you need to align rear wheel. Align rear wheel with bike on stand.

    The marks on swing arm are not always accurate. I have a 2007 Busa and the marks are off by almost a 1/2 mark.

    I used this method. C/P from another site..

    1. Lift the bike on the rear stand;

    2. Cut a piece of twine (mason twine is perfect) approximately 18 feet long and mark the center of it with a felt tip permanent marker;

    3. Use duct tape to attach the twine to the rear tire Attach it approx. 5 inches above the bottom of the tire (since the under plastic and front brakes will barely clear this height). Also, attach it using the center marking that you made in step 2, since you will be running both ends towards the front of the bike on either side;

    4. Bring both ends of twine to the front and duct tape them on the front of the tire at a similar height to the rear making sure the twine does not touch anything except the tires

    5. Adjust the front tire by turning it, until the distance is exactly the same from the twine to the tire sides;

    6. Measure the distance between the two string sides through the wheel of the rear tire. I found this distance to be 7.75 inches on the stock rubber;

    7. Cut a wooden dowel approximately 1/4 inch longer than the above distance (i.e. 8 inches for stock rubber). You could also use a pencil if you have one that is long enough. Cut notches in the dowel/pencil ends 1/8 inch deep each;

    8. Place the dowel (using the notches) between the two twine lengths immediately behind the front tire (see the attached photo, section #3). This will make the twine lines the proper distance apart (parallel) for the length of the wheelbase;

    9. If the rear tire is out of alignment, the twine will be off of the front of the rear tire a bit. Or, tighter on one side than the other. If the twine lines up nicely, then you are done... Otherwise, continue to step number 9. BTW - 0.5mm error is okay, since tires aren't any more accurate than this;

    10. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle nut. The axle nut is 36mm;

    11. Loosen the lock nuts on both sides of the tire. They are 12mm;

    12. Turn the adjuster bolts (there is one on each side of the bike) in opposite directions in very small increments until the tire is proplery aligned. The adjuster bolts are 10mm;

    13. Tighten both lock nuts;

    14. Tighten the axle nut with a torque wrench set at 100 Nm (10 kgf-m or 72.5 ft-lb);

    15. Double-check the alignment and then remove the dowel and twine. BTW - save the dowel and you can skip steps 5 and 6 the next time around;

    16. Replace the cotter pin;

    17. Take the bike off the rear stand. Don't forget to double-check the chain tension.

    align.jpg

  5. Dealer Service is a rip-off. I have owned motorcycles since the early 70's

    and had never taken a bike in for service until I bought my new Busa.

    Dealer told me that the first service was manditory, Said Suzuki may give me a hard time about my warranty, if first service wasn't done by a Suzuki dealer.

    So I took it in for the 600 mile service. After they were done I ask them what they used to clean, and lube chain with. Service manager said that the chain looked good and they never touched the chain.To make a long story short, I paid $128.58 for an oil change. Then I went home and finished servicing my Bike myself. I found that my back wheel was out of alignment from the factory, my idle was out of spec, and there were some bolts that were not torqed.

    I will never pay for another service from a dealer again.

    If you do your own service buy you oil and filter from the dealer, keep records of your work and the warranty will be fine. If you want your bike serviced PM me.

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