xTHExBOSSx46

i fucking want that hat!

Like 3 or 4 years, thus the low price point, but it runs great and I've never had any problems with it, just upgraded recently to something that fits a little more easily in my cramped computer case and don't have any other use for it. Let me know if you're interested.

This is a sweet card, capable of running virtually any game. It is the 768MB variety. I won't be using it anymore. $50.

No problems with disk, haven't played it in like 6 months and don't foresee myself really getting back into it.

might wanna specify for which platform

changed mind LOCK (YOU NEED A SEGA GENESIS CONSOLE TO PLAY)

no

this

most of those are really stupid but those had me rolling

he was on tosh and admitted the vids were fake on a web redemption.

no shit "oh we're going now?!" lets go again "wait.... go?!"

i pmed you

atx

-nForce 780i Sli Motherboard -Intel Core 2 Duo Processor E8400 3.0ghz (EASY overclocker) -G.Skill 8 GB of DDR2 800 PC2 6400 I have all the boxes and motherboard manual with cables. $200 OBO. I payed 450 for it not too long ago, perfect condition runs fast. Great gaming computer starter for a budget build or fast browser computer. Even played BF3 with a 260gtx. http://i.imgur.com/58vTOl.jpg

http://www.homesteadshools.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/the-door-3.jpg http://www.gdargaud.net/Antarctica/Life/WeddellSeal.jpg no.......... a door "sill" or trim. %5Bimg%5Dhttp%3A//www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=443&pictureid=5683[/img]

need a driver side door sill for an 02 gt. must be oem.

fail i agree but i lost it when snookie got it

both come with power cords only. no hard drives no controls

i have two red ring x boxs id like to get rid of. tried the fix and still red ringed. maybe i didnt re flow the board correctly. either way have a new one and dont care to rip them apart again. $40 each or both for $70 comes with power cords.

:lolguy: best thing i have ever read ......EVER.

Switching to a different adapter, no need for this one anymore. It's in great shape and works just fine. $15 takes it, link below shows all the info. I have original disk and box for it. http://www.superwarehouse.com/Belkin_N1_Wireless_USB_Network_Adapter/F5D8051/p/1495993

hooo hoooooooooooooooooo its funny cause its truuuuueeeeeee

laff thats pretty much what i thought. does anyone know if a kb would bolt up to that manifold without a ton of issues? or maybe a m112?

as soon as i let off the throttle it cools back down to 140-160 depending on how hot the day is. when i had it out yesterday my cruz temps were at 132-140 but this summer when it was in the 90s my cruz temps were at 160s. when i checked the resivior the fluid was moving very freely and at a decently high rate so i didnt think the lines could have any blockage. i dunno. but like i said as soon as i let off the throttle the temps come down rapidly.

i have a 02 mustang gt with a eaton mp90 saleen series IV kit. im running a 2.7 in pulley and 12lbs (11.9) of boost. i understand im close to or at that superchargers limits for over spinning. when WOT up through end of third and middle to end of fourth gear my IAT2 temps are around 215. pretty hot. i realize heat is always a issue with this style blower but what can i do to get the temps down? i already replaced the stock saleen HE with this http://www.lightningforceperformance.com/LFP_Extreme_Heat_Exchanger_-_1999-2004_Mustang_Saleen_S281.html and i brought them down a bit. but im still over 200. yes the pump is working. obv a liquid cooling system is used with a radiator for the engine and my radiator is always pretty warm after a run but my HE never has been and always cool to the touch, both the stock HE and my new one.. so in theory should it not be warm also being that its liqid to air? i realize it gets direct air cooling being mounted up front where as the radiator not so much. so i understand why it is warm. any cooling suggestions? bigger coolant tank? aluminum instead of plastic stock one? im all ears to anything really.