Moto-Brian

Ok, I am able to upgrade to the new 3Gs iPhone and don't need this thing any more. So, thinking of selling it either Jailbroken or as it is now. Untampered. It is a 16G a and in white. I am asking $199 OBO. The phone is great, has to the end of the month for the 1 year standard warranty and I ALSO have the Apple Care protection plan that gives you another full year on top. So, whoever buys, gets a $70 warranty added for another full year of coverage. I know the $199 is the same as if you went to the store now and got one, but hear me out. This is for the person who may already have one and it is damaged and they cannot get another one. Also for someone who is not eligible for upgrade via AT&T. Finally, if you are a T-Mobile person, you can buy this and Jailbreak it for free nowadays. Also will come with original box, ear buds (never used) and two screen protectors. I also have a white Encase I'll throw in as this phone has always been in a case and the condition is near new. Anyone knows me, they know I take really good care of my stuff... I can Jailbreak it and sell it for more, but I just need it gone so I can get the new one. So, $199 OBO. Great phone and can do some awesome stuff. I'll get some pics soon here or PM me your email and I can shoot better quality ones to you.

So, with it being totalled, what is the price you are looking for? A quick $500 or $1000? You have to have an idea. I bet $2k is going to be about right. Quick sale will get you $500 in your pocket...

I am not sure, Chris on the transfer fee. I've heard it happening before so, just making sure folks are aware. They'll let you know when you call. As for Reuben - he's part of the Swantz school as an instructor now so, yes...

However, Chris I believe will get a service fee charged from Mid-Ohio for the transfer...

Your comment was that what you offered was free shipping. You then stated that was a savings that most dealers do not get from when they order oil period. You didn't mention names per say, but saying that "This is huge to most dealers because oil is expensive to ship and after freight charges there is no profit to be made on the oil", you hinted or suggested that "most" dealers pay for oil to be shipped. Now it is simply Amsoil products that they may or may not pay shipping on. I guess you are saying that most Amsoil distributors sell the oil and charge freight/shipping so, most Amsoil oil is probably a little higher due to the dealers having to pay extra costs involved. That seems counter productive and tough on "most" dealers that carry your product. Wouldn't Amsoil want there to be some consistency in regards to what is charged to retailers? One thing that needs to be expressed here is that yes, you are a site sponsor, but you have a duty to be completely honest with people. I never stated Amsoil sucked or stated that you are a bad guy. As expressed by others here, you have some hurdles to jump to prove your value. You are a representative of the product, but not in the way that is typical in the industry. An Amsoil rep can be a guy with a mower in his garage and a sign in his yard. An Amsoil rep can also be a guy that drives all over and actually reps the product. Point is that it is known as to how you can become a dealer and a rep. I'm not offended when you respond. I don't care. But, just be careful when telling people about how dealers get stuff. You are being a bit more clear about the fact that you were saying it was Amsoil only that MOST dealers pay freight and shipping. That answers a few guys' questions about why the cost is higher at other places for the same product. They are probably trying to incur a profit and if they are as you stated "after freight charges there is no profit to be made on the oil" and it is Amsoil you are saying is what you were referring to, I understand now. I wouldn't want to bring in something with zero profit, either. I was misreading your comment and thus, my reasoning for responding because "MOST" dealers that are out there are not paying freight for oil... from other companies... Slandering isn't occurring here. I took your comment about most dealers paying freight on oils as being towards other oil companies. You cleared it up by saying Amsoil is the oil company that most dealers pay freight on. That's something you are experienced with. I know the other companies and the deals the guys like PU and TR make with chemicals. You were being vague and you cleared it up. I will say that using a lab test and a test funded by you guys makes the others look bad in comparison. That's a bit of saying the others aren't as good. But, they make claims that are probably also vague as a lot of companies will use the same methods or pull certain categories they excel in to market their product. I also never said anything opposing the great oil comment even about Amsoil. But, you read my tone and feel I am against Amsoil when in fact, I stated if it works for you as a customer, it is what you should stick with. That's with any top shelf synthetic. Glad you cleared up the freight comment. Sorry I misread it.

I just am not a fan of snake oil salesmen. I think Amsoil is a legit oil to use and a great choice if you feel it works for you, but for the guy to keep pedling the stuff and saying things that just are not true makes me somewhat feel he's not a good salesman and that offends me as it is the profession I am in... Buy what you feel is best. Bottom line...

No tires on LEDs...

Top of each hour so, hit a wall at the 45 til mark...

You are saying that dealers like the big ones in our area pay shipping on oil? The dealers I know have their oils ordered from TR and PU and usually have it all on big orders or are at a point in the way they buy that they do not pay shipping... So most isn't a good comment to be making here...

Do it, Nate. You have the speed and consistancy for sure. You actually get more seat time than a full day and it is cheaper to boot!

"I" group times are more along the lines of 2:00 - 1:50. Advanced needs to be about 1:49 and lower, but honestly, we get a lot of guys doing :45-:49 and hold their lines really well and are predictable and easy to pass due to being smooth and consistant. I've talked about pulling guys that are running :40-:45 due to their lack of smoothness and predictability before... Times aren't that important. We have guys running low :32s at times along with guys running :49s in Advanced. It gets really impossible to set a time restraint. But I will say if you are running boarderline 2:00 times, you need seat time in Intermediate for traffic knowledge and to learn the way to be smooth and consistant. Don't go by what a watch or someone timing you via a stop watch. There is so much room for error, you'd never believe it. Unless they are professional and do it for a race team, it is common to see 3-4 seconds a lap difference...

While I understand you feel good with the BStones, understand that there are not many guys running them out there at a high level pace. Again, great tire and certainly great for track days, but if you were killing tires after one day, you either had the wrong compound or a poor set-up for those particular tires. Every tire you run should look like yours in the pics. That shows the set-up is right. Again, great entry level tire, but if you want to run a higher pace and get more from them, Michelin, Dunlop or Pirelli is where it is at. Track day use is different as the pace is typically slower... Sure, tires will feel different to different people, but understand that your riding style isn't going to kill tires. You can kill tires with your riding style if the set-up isn't right for that style or that tire. Know what I mean?

That's Mike Graham.

If you ran better tires, you would... BStones are a great entry level tire, but not the best choice if you want to be on the best and running better times...

I can help after the first couple of sessions. Once I get things running, I can go out. I can help you and ChrisOH a bit for sure. As for Putnam, it is on Sunday and then I have two days back to back at Mid-Oh... So, it's not looking good, but I am not going to say "no" at this point. We'll see.

You're not on the list as coming, though. I have a master list and I don't see your name... Kidding!

Prices are going to vary slightly, but if an oil is $9-$13, it is what I would call comparable. Amsoil is what, $11 a liter/Qt? Repsol is $11-$13 depending where and who you get it from. $2 a Qt and having a total of $6-$8 difference isn't going to be an issue to a guy with a bike. They change their oil much more often than car guys do and the cost of operating a motorcycle is far less than a car so, $12-$16 a year difference in what they buy isn't a big deal... It's like arguing that paying $.20 a gallon more for a bike fill up is a big deal and that you should use Brand X gas instead of paying more at Brand Y...

Hmmmm... Amsoil dealer/rep showing an Amsoil funded "test" from a "independent lab" (Funded by Amsoil) and they just so happen to come up a winner... Thing is really simple. At the track, we have seen time and time again, MANY oils come up as being great under severe conditions. SAE test in a controlled environment are fine and dandy and show that a few of those oils are actually really close in key wear tests, if not better. But again, at the track and under severe use, oils like Maxima, Repsol, Motul, ELF, Royal Purple, etc. are all showing signs that they hold up and perform well in conditions not typically seen by the average rider. Afterall, real world tests that are performed at the track may show a tendency to be overkill for street use, but are great examples of if it works at the track, it will work for the street... Amsoil is rarely if ever seen at the track in top shelf competition. Sure, many guys run it and you can find examples of sponsored teams that get the oil and get paid to run it, but it is the top privateers that have to make sure their stuff stays together to have a chance to make money by winning. Guys at the WERA National level are a great measuring stick as to what works well. Robert Jensen, Vesrah, Knapp, Chapman (Get well soon, Zak!), TVR, etc. all are top teams and riders that make a shit pile of money through contingency payouts and they need their bikes to perform and stay together for every event. If they have mechanicals, they aren't making money and that won't do. Of all the top guys, none run Amsoil... Now, not saying Amsoil isn't good. It certainly is. But, to say it is the best is a stretch because I am sure there are tests that can be done to show it isn't the best in key areas. There are TONS of really great oils to choose from. Maxima, Motul, Bel Ray, Honda, YamaLube, Amsoil, Spectro, etc., etc., etc. For every oil, you will find a group of people that will swear by it and a small % that will say it is crap. That's with anything that really is good. But think about this. OEMs use oils that meet what they look for in terms of wear and tear in the motors they build. BMW doesn't have Amsoil on their approved oil list, for example... There are many examples against and for any name brand oil out there. My philosophy is if it has worked for you, keep using it. We've used Maxima, ELF, Repsol, and Motul. Any of those three have proven themselves to us when we were racing and from what I have seen in other race bikes out there. We've used Honda's stuff before with success and even Royal Purple, but we never had a motor torn down to see the results. The others? No bluing of key places and no wear issues shown. More importantly, with these liter bikes and how hard they are on oil, Repsol and Motul have shown to be great under these guides we look for in an oil. But, understand that others are using other name brand oils, too with GREAT success and similar results. Use what works. All these fancy tests and sales pitches are just that - sales pitches. If it works, use it.

You can actually get in if there is an event going on. Pretty much as early as you want, but you won't be on track until 5pm. It's been that way ever since as it is 3 plus hours of solid riding which is actually more seat time than you get on a normal 3 group day... Trust me, you'll be worn out at the end...

Ok, guys and gals... We should be pitting in the false grid area as usual. It is VERY rare that we pit anywhere else. We tried the middle paddock last time and I am not going to do that again. Our staff members will get first shot at cold pit. After they are in, the general public can pull in behind. I will have someone directing you where to go. The event opens gates to bikes at 2pm. The event will start on track at 5pm as usual. BE THERE EARLY if you want a spot to park and for registration. There will be NO garages. Suggestion is to bring a generator, as well. Another note is that this is a combined Advanced/Intermediate event and if it is your first time or you are new to Intermediate, we suggest a couple of more Intermediate events during our normal program days. We are getting more aggressive in moving folks due to speed differences and we will pull you if we feel it is a safety issue. That is explained rather well on the site, but we get a lot of guys signing up that are just not ready. Which is fine - we all start somewhere, but these events are for accomplished I riders and Advanced riders... Sorry for the rant. We just have had a few riders in the wrong groups as of late and it is getting tougher and tougher to say things are fine.

Wondered what happened there. Saw you walking away and figured it was blown or out of gas. Did you jump through a camera/escape hole in the fence? I appreciate you doing as I ask in Rider's Meeting and get away from the bike and go to safety. I'm also glad to see you're good and the bike is fine.

Ah, yes. Saw your R1 out there. Cool to see the new R1 running laps around the track. I have only seen but a couple of them and am surprised to not see more.

I must say, Nate did a GREAT job in Advanced yesterday. He's got a great body position and was tearing up some guys at the top of the keyhole his first time out. Was really cool to see. He gets a little more power and better suspension, and he's going to be pretty damn good out there. You won't have too many issues with the guys on newer 600s, that's for sure as you are sitting pretty in terms of what is needed. The bouncing rear is definately shown in that video. You can also hear your downshifts and notice when the bouncing occurs, it is on decel. You were letting the clutch out too fast and getting hop out of the rear tire. The guys on newer 600s can hamburger their downshifts as they have slippers, but you have to do it old school. Trust me, you'll be better off starting with what you have and learning to be smooth like a slipper than to go right for a slipper and ride. That learning of an old school clutch will teach smoothness and bike control. You looked good out there. No more "I" for you!!

Worn a LOT of boots. Currently, I have Sidis and the Supertech Rs from AStar. Personally, I have stayed away from the Sidis due to the fact that the cable system will break at times. They sell replacement kits, but about everyone I know that rides them at the track has had to replace the cable sets. The Supertech R is by far the best boot I have ever ridden in. Love Sidis - tough choice, but if you pick a Sidi, go with the one w/o the cables. The last they use, the insert in the sole, etc is all the same through the models. So, you get the same feel, but with less hassle.

You're over thinking this for sure. Running a powwer tool wwith a sanding disc isn't needed. If the rotors are completely glazed? Maybe. But, he's changing pads and only needs to scuff them slightly. You can do it your way or he can do what a lot of racers do and just use scitch brite pads and arm power....