Moto-Brian

Or, you can go to Dollar General and buy a scotch brite three pad kit for $3 and scrub away. Doesn't take much effort. No need to go overkill and use a drill... Just scuff them and wipe them clean with Brake Cleaner...

When? Doubtful. My weeks are so filled with driving for work and with directing track days, I have little time left. Might, though... Just depends - can't make any promises...

Just use contact/brake cleaner and a scitch brite pad. Bead blasting them is not needed...

Think of it this way... I have 1.0 front springs on my 1000. A guy with the same bike has .90 springs in his. The static sag will be different. If they both set the static sag where "that bike" should be, the rider sag will be different for each rider. Meaning, the .90 guy will be different than the guy with 1.0 rate. Rider sag is constant. They both need 35-38mm of sag and that's what you really need to concern yourself over.

Oh, you were asking for static sag... Nobody really uses that much anymore. When guys rebuild shocks for example, they will put in about 10mm of sag into the spring. Meaning, they measure the spring unloaded and crank the pre load adjuster down until it is 10mm shorter than unloaded was. They then check rider sag. You really need to do rider sag, man. You CANNOT use stands when checking either. Need to lift up to get the rear to completely fall and not have any load on it... Also, checking for load on a swing arm stand will not give correct numbers...

Sag numbers are all pretty much the same throughout the bikes. Look for 35-38MM of sag... You need to unload the suspension (cannot use a swingarm stand, either), need to hold it in the upright position and then measure, etc. Do a search as there are some good guides to doing this. But, don't fall for the 25-30MM sag some people believe is the right series of numbers...

HUH? When's the last time you looked at the CBR1000? HEAVIEST??? Also, when's the last time you priced any of the new liter bikes? All within a couple of hundred bucks... Kaws are cool, but they haven't figured out the handling deal as of yet. Very tough handling bikes compared to the others...

If it is from one stop, he's got an issue... I thought he was saying it was happening at the track under hard braking. Which if so, is an indicator the rotors have just simply timed out - worn out and needing replaced... If after one time, I apologize - he's got some issues...

Oh, and Brembos are the shit. I wouldn't waste the money on them unless you are doing a lot of track days and maybe upgrade to a brembo M/C and obviously good lines and pads...

I'll show you two sets of GSXR1000 (07/08) rotors that go against your comment.... Rotors like anything will time out based on use. If they have tons of miles and track days, the pulsing you have at the track will show signs of warping. A lot of times, it is the pads, but uneven wear and heat transfer will cause warping, also. The reason you probably are not feeling it on the street is that you don't brake as hard as you do and for as long on the track. Warped rotors will show immediately. My suggestion is two fold. 1) Get the stock OEM rotors and run new pads. If you have braided lines, cool. If not, get some. 2) Change and bleed the fluid. Too often, people overlook this in brake maintenance. You can also look at aftermarket rotors. Galfer is made by Braking and Braking's rotors are great. The wave acts as a dispursal of heat and allows the rotors to work better under severe conditions as seen at the track. For street use, you'll never wear them out. Street guys tend to not believe you can warp rotors due to the fact they ride thousands of miles and never have an issue. In one season, you can warp rotors or time them out on a race bike. If not sooner depending on ability and how much you are at the track. Good luck.

This is invite only. Not on the list, you don't get to ride... So, anyone reading this thinking there is sign ups at the track... negative. As for the Intermediate being full of "should be novice" riders, understand that these are dealers and they may or may not be avid track day riders. If you want more traditional or want more riders you typically expect in Intermediate, you need to sign up for the next day. This event is to be fun and low key. We are going to have a lot more of an open mind on ability levels. I will say, however, that we have a lot of room in Novice group and can move riders down if need be. It's a safety and actually a fun basis. It's no fun for the rider in the wrong group to be blasted all the time. It's also unsafe to have a rider in the wrong group, as well... Same for Advanced... See ya Monday.

Remember, 7lbs is 1 hp... So, dump a lot and you'll gain an advantage!

These are NOT the pads I had issues with. In fact, Vesrah is what I prefer and try to run at all times. The RJLs are cool and easily available from a dealership nowadays. Want the best? Get the MAX (010) or even the older SRJLs (Supers). If ya think the RJLs are good, you have no idea... Supers are as good as if you took the stock brake lines and replaced them with -2 lines. That difference is about the same from going from RJLs to Supers. The 010 or Max is a more progressive pad. Meaning the Supers are VERY solid initial bite and will put you on your ear if not careful. The Max will have that same bite, but less at the start. I personally like the Supers better, but they are getting tougher and tougher to get. The Max 010s are pretty damn good, though and have much more pad surface than the Supers... In the end, Vesrah is one of the top choices for racers if you are serious...

dude. Do you know how many bikes have more hp than the super duke I rode? Almost every one. You are losing maybe 10-15 hp. Big shit. He will pull you, but a better exit out of the keyhole will kill some distance. Plus, brakes at the end and doing the esses, carousel and drive onto the front straight can leave him behind. Now, he's got more seat time, but in floundy's defense, you got more this year on him. Don't be a pussy.

If I can offer some advice/ addendum to the list.... Do NOT wear sunglasses at the track. Buy a tinted shield or multiple tinted shields in different degree of tint. Unless you absolutely need to wear RX glasses, if you'd crash, they can really mess you up badly. No reason to wear sunglasses under a helmet with a clear visor. Spen $30 and save your eyes and face.

R6 can kill or at worst hang with a 750... He's got MAYBE 10 more ponies, but you make up with the lighter weight and handling. Pretty fair shootout... Of course, you have a better suit and look better. Advantage, Zorro.

How about either doing a new posts at the bottom or a button to click for top of page? Sucks to scroll down and then have to scroll up to click the new posts...

Yamaha FZ1 is awesome. Especially in the retro colorway! Great choice if comfort is what you want combined with power. They ain't slouches!

Riiiiiight... MM's a little baby, a whiner. Oh yeah, how may time series champ and ex MotoGP rider? How many does Pegram have? Larry's a fun guy and pretty cool. But to say or even think he's on par with the likes of MM is like saying he's as good as Spies. Who is the only guy to really challenge Spies? Hmmmmm....

Chris, onboard isn't going to give the true perspective. Think about runoff or lack thereof. The idea is that yes, they moved walls or tried to make things safer. Cool on the track. BUT, the AMA should have never gone to a track such as what Topeka was. They should have never signed off on allowing that track in the firt place. If you saw Herrin and another guy run off in the area with the ditch, you'd have seen that the ditch wasn't safe at all. Better than concrete, but that's like saying bullets won't kill you as bad as a grenade... The idea is simple. ANY new track brought on to the series needs to be set at a high standard. Meaning, there are tracks that aren't the best. However, they make efforts to try each year to better the facility in the safety aspect. Mid-Ohio moving walls, Road Atlanta changing the track layout, etc. They are existing tracks making changes to STAY on the curcuit. Now, allowing a shit hole track to be NEW to the series (ok, they used to be on the series, but were dropped...) should be safer than most. Barber, Miller, etc... There's no excuse and what Pegram stated about MM is total crap. He knows that he stood a better chance than had MM been there. Of course, his ex WSBK machine somehow makes the grade to race the series, but that's another story... Point is that some guys have balls and stand up for EVERYONE'S safety. Not just because they are having a tough qualifying session, etc. I think what Hacking and MM did took balls. I think them being worried about the other riders and hoping the others followed suit was noble and the right thing to do. If the guy running in 21st did it, think it would have mattered? The point leader doing it is impactful and raises concerns. Or should have... I think when MM comes back, there's going to be less trying on his part. He'll do enough to wrap it up and then he may just cruise around. Who knows. Why bother if the result is nothing? He's tried and tried. Someone could have gotten killed and THEN he would have been looked at as a righteous man. Happily, nobody did and that's great. Do you think the walls would have been moved had he and Hacking stayed and said nothing???

As for going back with anyone, the track is in receivership and will most likely not be around after this year and the established contracted dates... Beaver will be no more unless someone buys it.

You can get 100% from the motor at times. I agree. However, being able to apply it in conjunction with suspension, Brakes, components, etc. is not going to happen. There are VERY few people who can ride a 1000 or similar with 80% of the BIKE's ability. If you think you can, maybe in a straight line, but that's not what the bike is about... Street riding at 80% of about ANY sportbike is borderline stupid and honestly, not typical. The rider interferes so much that they may think they use 100%, but they aren't. If you are using 100%, that means nobody can beat you at all. Only can get equal at best. I doubt that... I like you, Nick and I think I know what you are trying to say. I'm just making sure everyone understands I am not just talking suspension... AND... If you use almost 100% on the street, that's not much left in reserve when needed.

Ain't big enough for these hombres! That little weezer 750 ain't got nuttin' for those thousands...

Then you'll want a Busa or ZX14 as the new 1000s (GSXR, ZX10, and CBR) liter bikes feel and are almost as small as the 600s... In my opinion, it is simply a matter of what fits you. You ask what oil is the best to 15 people, you'll get 15 different answers. Same with tires and bikes... Go to a shop, sit on them, get a feel, ride a few and decide... Internet people are no place to ask. Everyone with a liter bike is gonna say their bike is the best... My opinion is that the R1 is a good idea. It is still bigger and the motor is great for street use. Good seat for passengers, as well. By the way, none of my opinions are solely track oriented. None.

What's your quickest no BS times at either venue?