jonan

I just sold my '06 883 custom with 3,200 miles for $1,000 less than that. Sporty is a great bike, but I think she's gonna have to be willing to take a lot more of a loss than $200 to make it happen.

she know she'll be taking a loss, thus the obo, she has it on CL for 5200 i think, no bits just nibbles..

if everyone could just pass the word around i would appreciate it, jus trying to help my mama out

my mom has great running 04(i'll verify this weekend) Harley Sportster 883

black

looks new, a scratch here or there

tires have plenty of tread

lowered by Harley, with correct kickstand(im 5-6 and both feet were flat while sitting)

runs great, everything works

only ~4300miles

she owes ~$6200 and recently got another divorce and has been struggling with bills

please someone buy this to help my mom out she know she will be taking a loss im just puttin the word out to try and get her the most money.

$6000obo

whack the float bowl to see if that solves it sometimes they bind or get stuck and need a little help.

i use a wooden dowel or the butt of a screw driver to get the inner two if they are buried.

the site is auction style but has a one time $200 registration fee...

found an 06 f4i on there that i wouldnt mind picking up, its in Iowa tho...

shot in the dark but worth a shot

or maybe if enough people are interested in the site we could get an OR acct??

or does anyone have any experience with the site?

i want in next month

ok... yes USD +food and beers!, i not made of money and im not sure how long it will take so... what do you guys think would be fair?

im not trying to get something for nothing...

parts, not including shims for tappets or anything else found wrong when taken apart will cost about $300.

pm if you can help

come on somebody has to be able to help me...

ive been struggling to get my 83 honda shadow 750 (vtwin) back on the road for too long now... i put 400mi on it last year and the rear cyl lost compression.

ive never rebuilt an engine, and would really like some one to help me.

im pretty mechanically inclined, ive changed the timing belts on a couple civics by myself, replaced a clutch on an 87 300zx, blah blah blah...

i would really like someone to work on it with me that knows what they are doing.

after looking into it i would like to reseat valves, check lifter settings and replace rings on both cyl. i have a repair manual. i also have and extra engine we might be able to get some parts off of, but the condition and miles are unknown...

i pay for you your time + food and beers

they bike is currently in westerville, and i really have no way of moving it or anywhere to work on it. i would need to borrow a trailer or truck, i have a ramp and i could borrow my dads escape to tow.

any ways i feel like im rambling so someone help me plz

ive got some minor rust on my forks on my project bike.

could i use one of these products to remove the rust?

the forks need new seals and i figured the rust might make the seals less effective...

i dont know which one to take the BRC or BRC2?

i have my endorsement but ive only put 500miles on 2 different bikes in the past 2 years 5000miles in the past 3yrs, 4 diff bikes

the BRC doesnt specifically say with course completion you get the endorsement waiver...

the BRC2 DOES specifically say that with course completion you GET the endorsement waiver...

someone shed some light on this for me...i want my endorsement!!!!

f4i is going to be more comfortable as the 600rr is going to be a more aggressive position. However the RR is going to have better suspension and brakes. How much are you looking to spend?

i figured this was the case.... well i dont have a car payment any more, i'll probably sell one of my shadows if not both, so prolly loookin to spend 4-6k. and i will probably try and find an 06F4i but any year will do.

i really like the one Tpoppa has for sale right now, but im still in school with little to no income (too many credit hrs) ive thought about selling my car to buy it but then id be screwed. akron winters are mean...

ive been looking and dreaming with my college graduation coming up(9yrs later... ) i want to get the bike ive always wanted, a F4i

and i really like what i hear about the F4i, like what Tpoppa had to say.

The riding position on the 2004+ F4i is similiar to a VFR, but with fully adjustable suspension and none of the extra bulk.

i really want another sport bike, but i want it to be more comfortable than the 98gsxr600 i had, i really regretted selling her but i had no choice... i bought her with school monies then summer was over and it was time for school again...

anyway honda no longer makes F4i (01-06), they only make VFR, 600rr and 1000rr

how do the F4i and the 600rr compare comfort wise? is the suspension fully adjustable?? i probably wont be buying new but just in case id like some input plz

thanks,

john

oops i should have mentioned im in westerville for the winter :smile:

the title no longer says it all...

damn... enjoy!!

did anyone look at this bike?

has new pics, some tail damage... yah duct tape!!

well since i was only able to put about 400mi on my 83 shadow 750 before it lost compression and am waiting to get it back from my buddy whos putting new rings in it for me i though id get started on my 85 shadow 700...every day i dont ride a little part of me dies

any who i painted the frame over the summer some sort of dark grayish color, looks good just a lil dusty from being in the garage all summer.

here is the bent frame donor, already had the rear wheel, fender and airbox off

installed the steering stem on the frame yesterday, bearings went everywhere

pulled the engine yesterday its ready for a good cleaning and new stator!

donor frame is now ready for scrap

i need to replace the fork seals but want to remove some minor pitting on the tubes before i slide a new seal on. any suggestions?

i recommend EvapoRust for your parts cleaning needs. the battery box looked like it was in salt water for a few years. after 24hrs cleaner than new!!

hope i can fire it up before the snow flies, akron weather sucks, its always about 10degrees colder than cbus. will post more hopefully this weekend!

83 vtwin honda 750 motor

is it possible to do i compression test with just a motor, out of the frame?

can i connect a battery directly to the starter just long enough to get a reading?

can i turn it over by hand(breaker bar) to get a reading?

i really dont want to damage anything...

thanks

Have you syncronized the carbs? Made a HUGE difference on my Interceptor. Visually setting them was definately needed to get things close, but using a carb tuner and setting them precisely made things even better!

For setting the carbs, i use my "calibrated" ear. It's something I've always been able to do on cars, setting timing and adjusting idle mixture on carbs, and I just brought that skill out of retirement (thanks to EFI, I rarely use it!) for use on the bikes! I won't claim that it's the best way, but it works for me!

i followed the instructions in the book for setting the carbs and got it to idle much smoother, but still running cooler, if at all...

what exactly is syncronizing the carbs? is it adjusting the pilot screws? other than the idle screw there are no other screws to adjust...

the seasons almost over and ive only been able to put 400 miles on it

someone help! btw im broke so ive been tinkering and reading but its still not running right...

Let me know if you do find someone with a portable tach... I gotta check mine too!

if anyone knows a brand or what a good one to buy is i will just buy one and let you borrow it.

ive gone through the electrical system now and everything tests with in specs.

i replaced the spark plugs just because and the rear cyl is still running significantly cooler than the front.

its idling really smooth, after adjusting the pilot screws but its still running cooler than the front, and it back fires when i crack the throttle and hangs for a while. ive traced the throttle cables and they are not being pinched or are kinked.

the book says i need a portable tachometer capable of reading a change in 50rpms to adjust them properly, and im gonna have to believe this is the problem, after using my ears to adjust the pilot screw the rear cyl temp has increase but the front cyl is still much hotter and it still back fires and hangs

does anyone have a portable tach i could borrow? or know where i could pick one up? or know of a good brand?

well i put about 300 miles on it and it was doing just great. until a pilot screw fell out.... now its not running like it was, i would say its running fair to poor...

front cylinder is running really hot compared to the rear cylinder.

its had two full tanks of high test through it.

radiator fan runns when supposed to.

tested and is with in specs: thermostaic switch and thermostat.

im sure the carbs need tinkered with again to get it running better, the book says i need to use a tach that is capable of reading a change as small as 50rpms to properly "tune" the carbs. does anyone have this tool?

also brand new stator lights are rediculously bright now and the battery is being charged with the correct voltage!

im thinking of flushing the cooling system again, replacing the thermostat, rad cap, all hoses and clamps and possibly the water pump.

lol... her respose to everyone that keeps theirs indoors was:

"...everyone on here is biased!"

so we were sitting around drinking tonight and i said i wanted to move out so i could park my bike in the livingroom. i live with my fiance and her sister... no questions please...

so she requested the percentage of people who actually park their bike in the livingroom in the winter.

so who keeps their bikes inside when its cold outside?!

ttt

Evaporust, has anyone used this product to remove tank rust? most auto parts store carry it.

ive looked at strip and seal products(kreem, POR15,etc) and im hesitant to use one...

the directions say to fill tank and let it sit for an hour, turn sit an hour, etc until results are acheived. which brings us to the real problem. the tank cap seal is old and fucked. ive searched and called many shops online and around town and theyve all told me im sol. so does anyone have any suggestions on where i could obtain some fuel grade rubber or something to make one? its about 1/2" thick and about 3" in diameter.

on another note i would have just taken it to a radiator shop and had them dip it or what ever they do to strip the tank inside and out, but the prev owner put a sweet factory paint job on the tank, fender and side covers and its soo well done i dont want to fuck it up.

finals are in 2 weeks, by then the tank will be done, i'll reinstall the radiator and a few other components and i'll finally be cruising! ...a season later....