street pilot
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Posts posted by street pilot
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8 hours ago, DerekClouser said:
So I'm planning to do my first track day at Mid-Ohio sometime in the next month or so. I just recently went and spectated a track day so I kind of have a generalized idea of how it works, but help me understand the full process. I've read the website trying to understand everything to be prepared as I can be (I think this is why I've not done it in the past).
As I understand it, I'll pre-pay/register for a novice track day. Show up in the morning, go through tech inspection. I've read through the tech requirements so I understand what is required there.
The website says the helmet doesn't have to be SNELL rated, but I've heard otherwise. I have a Shoei GT-Air that has the flip down visor so it doesn't pass SNELL, can I use this helmet?? I have a one-piece BILT suit (I know it's not the best, but I didn't want to spend too much money on a suit until I know I'll need it), A* Gauntlet Gloves, Sidici full race boots. This is acceptable gear correct?
Is there a class before hand to talk about things,? How do I get assigned a 'rider coach'? As I understand it, after the 20 minute session, we go back into a classroom for 20 minutes with our rider coach and review to learn from our mistakes and improve. Is everyone together and talking generalized information or is it with your coach and more rider specific improvements??
Are there any limitations they put on the novice group that they don't put on the intermediate group??
How does lunch go? I heard it was provided?? Is it enough food or should I plan to bring my own??
Lastly, if you could back and re-do your first ever track day, what would you do differently so I can prepare myself to not make those same mistakes?? (I plan to bring cooler with drinks & a pop-up tent.)
Another random question, a buddy of mine has been interested in getting his son (15) out to do a track day. I read they require you to be at least 18 years of age?? How strict are they on that rule or do you have to contact someone to get it approved???
Just looking for some insight to calm my nervousness of not knowing. I was hoping to have some guys I know there to kind of learn together, but that doesn't look like it'll happen and I don't want to wait any longer before getting out to the track.
Also I apologize if these questions seem dumb or silly, I'm just trying to be fully-prepared so I can focus on improving my riding while at the track and not worrying about the technicalities of how the track day is run.
The riders meeting is where you discuss flags and then break out into your group with instructors. Ask the specific time/location from your tech inspector or an instructor running around.
The classroom session is basically an informal discussion about the previous session. There is no formal teaching with textbooks or a classroom.
My only difficulties and were logistical. You enter in gate 3, sign the waiver at a guard shack on the right. Then continue straight, and turn right into the paddock area, marked by a blue sign on the chainlink fencing. You then turn left into the middle paddock area, which has paint lines on the ground. Depending on volume you can continue straight into the lower paddock/garage area (#10 on map). You check in at a small information booth (#13 on map), then they will give you a class sticker and tell you where tech inspection is (if they don't, ask). Take your class sticker to inspection and put it on your bike. If no one shows you before leaving the novice group meeting, ask how to enter/exit the track from the garage area.
Map: https://www.midohio.com/Assets/Images/Pictures/TS-GenTrackMap-09
Take:
a cooler with water and snacks
the key to your bike!!
chair
earplugs
tire pressure gauge and air tank if you have it. Otherwise I'd air up to stock pressure at home and get some advice from coaches/riders once there and air down to recommended pressures.
Everyone is usually really friendly and there to have a good time and help each other out. I went my first time without knowing a single person and within 15 minutes I had three new friends just from people walking by and saying "hello". Plan to get there just before tech opens so you have plenty of time to unload.
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On 7/4/2016 at 5:48 PM, 0hi0 said:
Of course track days aren't worth it unless you meet some awesome people. Ohio Riders were well represented, however I'm terrible with names. Very nice catching up with Mark Junge, oh the memories. Such a class act and a ambassador to the sport.
Glad we could catch up, nice to meet you!
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On 7/1/2016 at 9:53 AM, 0hi0 said:
Signed up and ready to go! They put me as a novice since I haven't rode the track before...
Ran myself ragged to get everything in order. I'll be there too. Red 600RR, on an orange trailer, behind a Nissan Frontier.
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1 hour ago, Slowohioboy344 said:
Second, how likely is it that there will be room in the July 4 date? Since I don't know if I still know anybody there, I am guessing I will be starting in "I" and having to get a bump. Planning to drive up Monday morning and see what happens.
I'm trying to sell my spot at a discount... PM me if you want to call the track tomorrow and see if we can switch my spot to your name.
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I did not ask. Make me an offer on the spot if you want, I'm just too busy this weekend.
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Is anyone interested in buying my spot at Mid-O for Monday, or is anyone planning on attending?
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um im not sure what is so amazing about this, but FYI every bolt has been torqued in GM power train for years. I guess its not wireless, but every station has torques that have polkayokes in this way.
It's impressive that every bolt's torque value is wirelessly recorded in a computer, that precludes assembly (allegedly) of the next part unless the value is within spec.
Anyone who has worked in auto assembly should appreciate the value.
I just shared the article with the community because I figured people might be curious what the production floor for the NSX looked like, not because of this wireless torque wrench technology.
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An impressive local operation.
http://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/acuras-church-of-the-nsx/
"The assembly stations all work with wireless torque wrenches to get the perfect turn of the screw every time. When a technician bolts something into place, the wrench will vibrate when the correct torque spec is reached. Builders can then double-check that on their computers. If the torque value is wrong, the computer will not allow the next piece to be assembled."
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FYI, I used a Home Depot "Airport-Grade" sealer and rubber heat-to-spread crack filler on my asphalt driveway last fall...and this weak winter has destroyed the coating. I powerwashed and spot-treated it as well beforehand.
It was an easy job and I had fun doing it...but I'll avoid that route from now on as at least the companies that do a hot-coat of sealer seem to last a few years.
Interesting. I used the same stuff and my coating seems to be holding up just fine. Do you use ice melt? Did you mix it well before using it?
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what's your bottom dollar?
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I will respectfully disagree with you on most points.
Conventional financing is always better than FHA if you can come up with 5% down as opposed to the FHA requirement of 3.5% down. That is a fact, not an opinion. Yes, it is true that every situation is different but if you compare apples to apples, an FHA loan is more expensive in every way compared to a conventional loan.
PMI eventually drops off...even though it does take a long time if you go with the monthly option and do not accelerate your principal payment(s). Your rate stays the same for the life of the loan. The only way to drop you rate would be to refinance which of course also has a cost. Unless you refinance with my bank, you will end up paying 1500-3000 just to refinance...again, what is the 'no mi' worth?
The penalty in a higher rate will ultimately cost you more than the amount you will pay with mortgage insurance; be it in monthly or an upfront bulk payment.
Let's be conservative and probably quite unrealistic and say the 5% down no MI option would be a .25% difference in interest rate (.25% higher than par). Assuming 95% LTV and 740+ credit on a 100k loan amount, that would be $4500 in monthly PMI if you paid it to term. Or, if you paid upfront, that would be $2150. Conversely, the .25% higher rate would cost you almost $6000 more in interest.
Not saying you made a poor financial decision...but you may have.
Food for thought.
-Marc
Fair enough. As I mentioned, my main goal here was to establish 20% down is not needed to avoid PMI.
Your calculations make a significant assumption that the homeowner will keep the mortgage for the entire term. I noticed you also did not allow for the cost of rent while a prospective buyer (who has ~5% but not 20% to put down) works toward a 20% lump sum. You did not address the concern of the rising interest rates during this savings period, and if your scenario requires a refinance the potential interest rate difference at that time.
I appreciate your concern, but I am comfortable with the financial decisions I've made.
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I called my buddy at State and got the run down. It is a decent program but they of course penalize you with the rate.
There are other options as well which include LPMI or BPMI to avoid the monthly cost. If you will live there longer than 5 years, either of those options are better than monthly MI.
Remember that MI is also a write off.
Trust me, I am in the business and HATE MI. It does nothing for the consumer and I would love to get rid of it in general...but that isn't a reality. If you want to avoid it, the BEST option is to save up and put 20% down.
-Marc
When I was shopping, the rate "penalty" made more financial sense than a loan with PMI.
As a result, I disagree with your statement - the best option is not always to put 20% down. The best option is not always FHA. The best option depends on the individual situation of the buyer. There's an opportunity cost involved with renting while you save up for a 20% downpayment, and there is also a risk of interest rates rising while you build a nice savings.
It sounds like for the original poster a 20% downpayment won't be a problem, so that may be his/her best option. Others may need to evaluate their options.
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Not being a jerk...I'd love to hear more about this...
They do still require a down payment...just not 20%. And it is an adjustable rate program if I remember correctly.
-Marc
Yes, as little as 5% down. My main goal here was to dispel the belief a buyer MUST put at least 20% down to avoid private mortgage insurance. It's simply not true. As of a couple years ago this particular program was available in a 30-year fixed rate format.
What additional information do you want? There's not much to it.
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Where is more information on this? Other than doing an 80/20 loan.
http://www.yourstatebank.com/contact-us.htm
They have an office in Dublin. Good people.
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For what it's worth, it is possible to get a loan without PMI irrespective of your downpayment percentage if your credit is good enough.
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sold.
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Price is $12,500
Mileage is 108K
Loaded with leather, moonroof, rear entertainment system.
Great condition, most maintenance receipts available.
PM for additional information.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/zpilotz01/van/DE33B004-7E3F-4E05-ADA3-AB6C137F98FB_zpstehcsluo.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/zpilotz01/van/A512EA27-2CBA-459B-BE68-99BF43BF2C2B_zpsxjklfel8.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/zpilotz01/van/A3DA8ADB-1F2A-4FFD-A248-790EBF14FA30_zps7pgdjvua.jpg
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I use Dubs. I like their attenuation curve better than the foam EAR brand for riding (and concerts).
They have a nice low profile and are available at Guitar Center locally. They fit/feel similar to a music earbud with the rubber cup, like sennheiser makes.
Etymotic are also worth a look. I believe they also have a new low-profile model.
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Google Chronic Compartment Syndrome and go see a sports medicine doctor.
Do NOT search youtube for this.
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I'm thinking it should bolt up to many integras and civics, but I doubt an accord. Though an exhaust shop might be able to make it work.
It is stamped with this part number:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/zpilotz01/stuffs/A1D25009-4E51-4B90-9D6B-F41A24C5202E-19405-00001FE57220944B_zps22e5e1f5.jpg
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I believe this is off of a 98 gsr.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/zpilotz01/stuffs/87A0BCF6-3D45-4ED8-83C1-4D3FECFA0AA2-19405-00001FE55CF213C1_zpsc73643c8.jpg
$40
WIFI Garage door openers
in Dumpster
Posted