Gump Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Looking to build a 40x64x16 pole barn. 2 16'x 14' insulated overhead doors on the 64' side, man door, Steel roof and siding, foam closure strips, double bubble roof condensation barrier, ridge vent, 5" concrete with glass, gable vent and gable fan, 12" overhang all around, 1 man door, two floor drains, one sink drain, water line to hydrant, laminated 2x6 times 3 laminated posts, and the siding material that lets light thru at the top of the steel siding on the south side(maybe). Then there's steel pre-fab and insulated which is enticing to where I could do it. Looking for build material or build in general, suggestions or what to stay away from. General purpose garage/storage/ shop use. I'll wire it and maybe insulate it but i'd kinda rather they insulated it.Need some bracing somewhere to hoist stuff up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flounder Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Looks like youve got it all figured out and just a decision on how much you want to spend (pre insulated or you doing it after the fact) I'll chime in on the concrete. Assume you are going to pour over mesh and bar with a good base gravel pack? I would probably go 6" myself due to the size of the pad to help avoid cracking. The other thing I was going to do with mine was have a section of concrete that was 10-12" thick in case I needed to set some heavy machinery or equipment on it. i.e a lathe, mill, steel, etc. With it being 64ft long, I would also go with 3-4 floor drains in the middle or 3-4 down each edge, that way you can just spray and squegie the floor when you need to.Another option would be that for something that size, I would probably build a pit as well for changing oil in vehicles or using as a storm shelter. What size service are you going to run to it? Im jealous man, I was going to build a 28x40x12 but ill have to jump through all kinds of hoops and permits due to the township and stupid property line issues. (Even though its country) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Someone made a similar post previously, I had a huge writeup on what mine will include when we build it in the next few years, just need to find the land we really want and location we decide on. I don't have all the build material stuff listed, but mine will be fiberglass sides just like a normal house build with full sheet backing, all insulated, etc. Not just a steel structure. Reason being I plan to have an inlaw suite in there along with office that will double as a karate dojo and workout room for the wife and I. She does the karate, I just want a place for my weight cage and treadmill. So essentially your size is exactly what I want, except I plan to go taller, at least 20, because the TH I have is already at 12 feet, and I plan to upgrade to a 5er before then and will probably be 16ft to top of AC unit. Biggest thing I can say is even if you dont have a water source yet, make sure you plumb in ALL the plumbing drain lines, and do more than you think you want for spickets, faucets, etc. I plan at least 2 drop sinks in garage by both man doors, handicap roll in shower, toilet, urinal, bidet(yes seriously), and sink in the inlaw suite. Office will open to the inlaw suite via door, probably using the bathroom as a pass through then closet space next to that to complete the area. If you really want my input I can give you more, but I think I typed most of it up already on here. As for bracing, probably just get some extra bracing for the rafters in that area, and the surrounding studs/framing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Looking to build a 40x64x16 pole barnChrist you could put my house inside that thing and still have room to mow around it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Its similar to the size my inlaws have, it is filled literally to the rafters, and on top of the man cave has a floor area and it's filled too. I've never seen anything like it. Then he has a storage place for his boat and 2nd spare truck, and their house is filled to the cielings on the 2nd level and 3rd level. It isn't like hoarding trash, everything is someones, they just have no idea whose or what it is. It's unreal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted October 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Looks like youve got it all figured out and just a decision on how much you want to spend (pre insulated or you doing it after the fact) I'll chime in on the concrete. Assume you are going to pour over mesh and bar with a good base gravel pack? I would probably go 6" myself due to the size of the pad to help avoid cracking. The other thing I was going to do with mine was have a section of concrete that was 10-12" thick in case I needed to set some heavy machinery or equipment on it. i.e a lathe, mill, steel, etc. With it being 64ft long, I would also go with 3-4 floor drains in the middle or 3-4 down each edge, that way you can just spray and squegie the floor when you need to.Another option would be that for something that size, I would probably build a pit as well for changing oil in vehicles or using as a storm shelter. What size service are you going to run to it?Im jealous man, I was going to build a 28x40x12 but ill have to jump through all kinds of hoops and permits due to the township and stupid property line issues. (Even though its country)220 service is there now at the existing garage shack. More drains the better I guess unless it causes issues some how. Had Olympia buildings out of pa call and say they had a 50x48x14 steel they could sell at $17,800 delivered. Said it was ordered and the customer couldn't take delivery. I think its partly hogwash. No doors just 2 10x10 openings and a 3x7 door hole. Concrete, one contractor said 4" was standard, 5's plenty for heavy stuff and glass is the standard. Considering you have a good base. Seems like there's a lot of differences of opinion between contractors or they're simply working me to see where they can cut costs. Hence I'm requesting bids with the same specs then I'll get to upgrades in negotiations when I pit them against each other.Steels a different world though.Like the Olympia guy said his steel roofs have a 25 yr warranty and said they're the best out there. Really, my house steel roof has 50yr steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoblick Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Mines 30x48 with 8" concrete i believe. Steel building, steel roof, fully insulated and plywood interior walls. 4 big ass ceiling fans as well. Helps out alot to cool the place down. And will be very helpful in the winter to move the heat around as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flounder Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 My grandpa has run his own construction business all his life with a primary focus on blockwork, orante masonry, and concrete work. I worked for him busting my ass from the time I was 12 (no Im not lying) until I left for college so Ive done a fair share of masonry and concrete work. (Im no expert though) . I would not set heavy machinery on 5" of concrete. Hell sidewalks are generally 4". If someone told me a 4" pad for that place I would turn and run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 If you have garage door questions for that steel building, I know a guy. The whole "Anderson Door Racing" sponsorship thing has its perks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted October 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Mines 30x48 with 8" concrete i believe. Steel building, steel roof, fully insulated and plywood interior walls. 4 big ass ceiling fans as well. Helps out alot to cool the place down. And will be very helpful in the winter to move the heat around as well.Is yours steel framed and clear spanned trusses? Big ass brand ceiling fans or just big ass fans? Lol I've seen there fans, some are huge. Fans are a definate good idea.This whole concrete things got me puzzled. Last thing you want is cracking concrete or overdoing it and paying $2000 too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted October 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 If you have garage door questions for that steel building, I know a guy.The whole "Anderson Door Racing" sponsorship thing has its perks.Thanks. I might have some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted October 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 My grandpa has run his own construction business all his life with a primary focus on blockwork, orante masonry, and concrete work. I worked for him busting my ass from the time I was 12 (no Im not lying) until I left for college so Ive done a fair share of masonry and concrete work. (Im no expert though) . I would not set heavy machinery on 5" of concrete. Hell sidewalks are generally 4". If someone told me a 4" pad for that place I would turn and run.What's heavy machinery to you? I can't see myself having more than a back hoe, hay bailer, 8000 pound boat or tractors and stuff in it. Not doing 4" that's for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flounder Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 (edited) What's heavy machinery to you? I can't see myself having more than a back hoe, hay bailer, 8000 pound boat or tractors and stuff in it. Not doing 4" that's for sure.We are on the same page. But for me it would be something around the 10K-15K mark though and the footprint means something as well. An 8K boat spread out over 30+ ft isnt going to induce near as much stress as something like a bobcat which can hit 11K lbs unloaded in a much smaller area. Edited October 17, 2013 by flounder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadyone Posted October 18, 2013 Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 For the concrete if do 6" minimum 8" would be ideal. Also put in more floor drains than you'll ever expect to use or need and also the more sawcuts the better. Like every 8'. Both directions. That big of a piece will move over the years for sure and it will be much nicer when it cracks where you want it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted October 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 For the concrete if do 6" minimum 8" would be ideal. Also put in more floor drains than you'll ever expect to use or need and also the more sawcuts the better. Like every 8'. Both directions. That big of a piece will move over the years for sure and it will be much nicer when it cracks where you want it.Sounds good. Fiberglass or rebar/chicken wire?. The opinions Chang from one contractor to the next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted October 18, 2013 Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 Hob's is got a sick setup, havent seen it in person, but know a lot about it from talking to the previous realtor. Hob's, I have to come check the place out sometime if that'd be cool. Maybe once you get settled in etc I could roll out some weekend, really just want to see what that size acreage and pole barn looks like exactly, as that's pretty much the size we are looking for acreage wise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted October 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 The steel building companies are playing the exact same games. Each one has called and gave me this we might have some specials on the one you need, I'll have to ask my supervisor....them of course they're playing the steel market price game vs. delivery date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadyone Posted October 18, 2013 Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 On the Fiberglass vs Mesh/rebar I stand on the rebar side. NOW you can still add Fiberglass to the mix with rebar. this will cut down on the surface cracks and give it better strength. The fiberglass isn't that expensive that you cant do both. If only doing 1 rebar/wire mesh is it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted October 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Thanks. I'll get quotes on bars and glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.