RHill Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Problem appeared first at PIRC in the early warm up before races. Went away entirely for the second warm up, races and the track day friday at Mid-O. Monday rolls around and it is back for the first and second sessions then goes away entirely. It seemed to only occur on the gas hard and not necessarily at any RPM. If you watch closely the gauges flicker as well. When it cuts out, it cuts out hard. The only time I've felt something similar is on my street bike when the negative terminal on the battery came loose. I'm checked it at Mid-O, but everything was tight. Plan to check the ground and clean all the connections just to be sure. Any other opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidgetTodd Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Power Commander connections tight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c7fx Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 I had a problem similar to this with my R6. It would start fine rev and run perfectly but at WOT it would cut out. This mostly happened in 5-6th gear. Long story very short. It was my battery which was only 70% charged and when I was at WOT the bike required more energy than was being produced our had in reserve with the battery. At mid-Ohio it would cut out only on the back straight and sometime going towards turn one. Mine would make cool backfires out the exhaust. LOL. I had my battery bench tested charged and the problem was gone. What ever reason my charger at home would not completely charge this battery. Anyways I have also had a bad power commander on my RC51 do this also. Make sure the ground wire is good and or try disconnecting and running again without power commander Both times for me the problem only showed up when on the track or the dyno. Other options that I checked when my R6 did this wasThrottle position sensorfuel pumpcoilstip over sensorkickstand switchalso check to see if your bike is throwing codes. The R6 you can check via the gauges no tools required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwiztedRabbit Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 (edited) do you have a quick shifter?? my R6 did the same thing on my 3 year old Bazzaz Qs I disconnected it and the problem went away.. the Qs was cutting the ignition with out ingaging the shifter at all.. and was intermittent. I replaced my QS and it has been fine since Edited July 25, 2014 by TwiztedRabbit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted July 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 I moved the PC monday when remounting my go-pro, so I think it is good, but I'll add the connections for it to the list of things to go over. The ground for it goes straight to the battery, so I'll clean that up too. The battery seems strong, no issues cranking or anything....I'll pull it out and put it on the charger just to be sure. I have a spare and a LiFePo4 that I'll take to the next track day to throw in if this persists. I have a QS; did your issue feel like a normal shift cutout or something more? To me this feels longer than the normal cutout from the QS, but that might just be in my head & not expecting it. I'll add that to the list of things to try at the track. The thing I find odd is it seems to be temperature dependent almost; both times it has happened have been first time out for the day. Monday was two sessions, though it happening less and less the second session. I could be completely wrong with that observation though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1crusher Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 As Jeff (c7xf) has stated, I'd check the battery first. This was exactly the same issue I was having at Nelsons when I was taking my race school a couple years ago. It got so bad that I did not run the last 2 session because it was getting dangerous for me and others. To test it I simply charged the battery for 24 hours, pulled it off that and check the voltage 14.4v and looked great. Then I started the bike and check it again at idle and again at RPM to check that it was charging. Every single time the charge fell way low when the bike was running and the charging system just couldn't keep up with the bike needs and charging the battery. Swapped out the battery for a new one, problem solved and it's been a champ ever since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwiztedRabbit Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 It literally made the bike buck.. mid corner it was like riding a bull but sounded like I was hitting the Rev limiter though I took longer to recover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted July 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 Kev, the only thing I don't get is why it would come and go the way it has if it was the battery? Going away as the day progresses makes sense if it is starting low and charging up, but both times it appeared immediately following a track day that had no issues...so you would think it would be topped up and ready to roll. Jason...yep that's the feeling, it was happening accelerating out of corners as well, and was pretty unnerving. Picked out that section of video because it had the most "cuts" the quickest and it was the first one I found. It was pretty constant each lap, then just faded away. I'll do what I can while not at the track....check over the wiring, clean all the contacts, check battery condition, check the charging system and top up my spare battery. When I get to the track I'll start simple, run the bike first session to see if the problem is still there. If it cuts, come in and change the battery, then start removing accessories to see if it persists. Thanks guys, the input is really appreciated, need to get this sorted before the races in August. If anyone else has input, I'm all ears! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c7fx Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 Unfortunately the battery doesn't get a good charge when the bike is running at race pace. The bike is using more energy than its producing. Thats why my bike was cutting out when I was near Redline. The battery is just an easy thing to check. Not to say this is your problem but one to check off the list. I over looked it and spent most the summer chasing this elusive glitch. I checked my charging system and it was showing proper voltage so I ruled out the battery way too early. Only reason I found it was talking to a friend who runs a Yamaha dealership. He told me to bring my battery in after I had told him what the problem was and what I had already check. Anyways I would also try removing the quick shifter and Power commander as my second guess. Again those are easy checks and easy to disconnect. Plus the power commanders have a history of doing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 Yep. Bench race the battery, get stator output checked, unplug aftermarket goodies and see if it persists. Swap ecu with someone if you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.