Scruit Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 (edited) 300 ftlbs is like the pinion nut on a truck axle. I can't imagine anything on a bike needing to be locked down that tight. Gotta be seized. Edited October 22, 2015 by Scruit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just_some_dude Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 Here are the updated installation instructions: Installation 1125 Rotor / Nut ( update tightening procedure )Note Crank Locking tool is already in position1. Match the double tooth spline on the crankshaft with the gap in splines. in the rotor hub and slide the flywheel hub onto the crankshaft2. Press the flywheel onto the starter gear.3. Rotate the starter gear and the freewheeling gear until the teeth mesh4. Clean the threads of the crankshaft and crankshaft nut ( ALWAYS USE A NEW NUT ) with brake cleanerNote Where LOCTITE 272 ( red ) is unavailable , Use LOCTITE 278 ( red )5. Install the flywheel nuta. Apply LOCTITE 272 ( red ) to the threads and the mating face off the crankshaft nut.b. Tighten to 285 NM ( 210 ft-lbs )c. Back off the nut counter clockwise approximately 720 degreesd. Tighten to 285 NM ( 210 ft- lbs )e. Back off the nut counter clockwise approximately 720 degreesf. Final tighten to 400 NM ( 295 ft-lbs )6. Remove the crank shaft locking tool7. Install the plug and tighten to 15 Nm ( 11 ft-lbs ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motocat12 Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 I've heard that sound on a non buell before. Used to have a shorai too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motocat12 Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/735199.html?1396155345 The post that the rotor goes on somehow scored a notch in the cover so there was a ridge on the post and a groove in the cover. so the cover would shift about 1mm then stop. well after a whole lot of swearing, hammering, prying, and pulling it finally came off. studs wouldn't have mattered. The metal was basically fused. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpoppa Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Worst case scenariohttp://www.ebay.com/itm/08-2008-Buell-1125-R-1125R-engine-motor-/271939141365?hash=item3f50d5fef5:g:9kwAAOSwLVZVsnuy&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just_some_dude Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 (edited) Raising thread back from the dead. I'm back at this bike again. I pretty much left it sitting this whole time. New season, can't stop thinking about it now. Here is another video of me turning the crank manually left and right. Also, what happens when I attempt to start. Just a note, there is no oil in the engine at this time. Also, I still cannot get the cover off, but if I can't figure out what is going on I am going to have no choice but to crate some sort of puller to yank the cover off. Edited March 17, 2016 by just_some_dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevysoldier Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Squeal? Needs a new serpentine belt of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heagachongoose Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Rotor failure, sprag clutch and gears are a common failure as well. The torque is actually not far from 300 if I remember correctly. There have been a lot of revisions in that value through the years. The nut backing and sometimes coming off is actually a common issue too. Other than that and the occasional valvetrain issue they're usually pretty solid. Like mentioned, don't turn it backwards. It's fixable. It won't be cheap. Message me when you get a chance. Where are you located? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just_some_dude Posted March 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 Bike is running. I put some oil back in the bike, did a few manual turns (clockwise), attempted to start with battery and it would turn just a touch. Was turning better, but would eventually get back to squelch. Got an 80 amp charger/starter and cranked it a few times with some fresh gas and starter fluid. Bike turned on and was running strong. I let it run for about a couple minutes. I didn't hear any odd sounds, there was some white smoke, but I imagine that may be from the starter fluid because it eventually went away. I felt around the stator cover to see if there was any abnormal heat, everything seemed fine. I took the stater off and attempted to start the bike again with the battery and it started right up. I really have no clue what may have happened. Just a guess would be I didn't oil anything on assembly and cranked the heck out of the rotor nut. Next steps are putting airbox back on, etc. Gonna need some new tires on it though, they are old and have been sitting for a whole year and a half. I'll have to watch closely and make sure nothing else goes wrong. I live south of Westerville in Cental Ohio. Probably 2 miles from Iron Pony. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heagachongoose Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 Great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Z. Heimer Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 Does your oil look like it has glitter in it after you run it awhile? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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