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interesting sb chevy question


Guest aftermidnight

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Guest aftermidnight
i was wondering if this idea will work...if you put a 400 crankshaft in a 350, its a 383. can i take a 350 crankshaft and put it in a 307. mathmatically it would be a 331. i got the 307 for free and my 350 is toast due to finding a small hairline crack in the block but i already have the brand new forged crank and i hate like hell to not to be able to use it. i'm not super hugh on knowledge of swapping out things like this so any help is greatly appreciated.thanks graemlins/thumb.gif
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Guest aftermidnight

no shit? i heard both good and bad so with it being free sparked the interest for obvious reasons...lol thanks for the input, i have an offer for a 350 and a 400 both for $300 so i'm thinking of going that route.

 

i just wonder what the stroker 307 would do for shits and giggles.....

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Well, a 307 is a small journal motor, like a 327 and the 283, the 350 has larger journals, and without turning down the crank, it will not fit.

 

As far as a 350, I have a block I will let go cheap, along with a set of heads.

 

You're screwing with somehting that is gonna give you headaches, take the 307 and tie some asshat to it and toss it over hoover dam. You'll be better off in the long run.

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I realize that hearing that about the 307 is sort of disheartening, I mean you have this motor and you don't have anything in it, so it would be wise to try to do something with it right.

 

I had a set of ROSS racing pistons that were like that. They were special billet piston, domed crown, 14 to 1 compression whit a 64CC head. And I had them given to me. So I started looking into building a motor around THEM. This was my first mistake. You NEVER build a motor around any part, other than maybe a cam. You get what the motor needs, not what ever part you came up with to use.

 

The diameter was a 60 over 400 bore, no big deal, untill you try to find a 400 block that will take a 60 overbore and not have paper thin walls. Sure there are DART blocks that would have worked good, but those are expensive. This was my second mistake, attempting to build a big balls, full on race motor and be "Cheap". So as I am looking for a block, I figure that I will look at getting rods too. The pistons had some odd assed compression height (distance from the center of the wrist pin to the piston crown) and they weren't standard. A normal 400 uses either a 5.7 or a 6 inch rod. These pistons required a 6.625 inch rod. Which is an odd size. So now I am looking at buying not only a $2000 block but another $1000 in connecting rods. And of course, you don't wrap up all that money into a motor and put a shitty stock crank in it that will just fail and break all your expensive parts. So I started looking at a crank, and a useable forged crank, would be $500 minimum, so we are now talking $3500 to use a set of free pistons. And that was only the block, crank and rods. Heads and other shit not included. Now refer again to my first mistake, thinking I could be cheap and put together a CUSTOM built engine.

 

So I sold the pistons to a guy for $20, and he did the best thing that could have been done with them, used them as asktrays and door stops.

 

We end up with all sorts of stuff in our travels being car nuts. But we need to remember that you can't polish a turd, no matter how hard we try or how much money we spend on it. And NO ONE gives away high end, expensive racing parts without there being some sort of situation that will need to be dealt with to use those parts.

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Guest aftermidnight

well, on a good note....i tore it down last night and just about shit myself.....it's all brand new intrernals and it's never been fired!!!!brand new flat top pistons, new forged rods, new crank, all new bearings, new .374" cam, new, double roller timing chain, new lifters, new pushrods, and freshly rebuild heads. the block smells horrible from the hot tanking still. i cannot believe this!!!!

 

the guy bought a jeep and said he wanted a 400 in it so he just gave this un known 307 to me.....happy belated birthday to me!!!!

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Guest aftermidnight
the thing i was thinking is this one is punched .030 making the bore 3.90. the stock 350 bore is 4.0. both use 5.7 rods, but the difference here is the 307 has a 3.25 stroke instead of the 3.48 stroke. if i used it, it would basically be a destroked 350....or pretty damn close. i have my race heads ready to go on them so i was thinking it should produce some good power and be able to be rev'd higher because of the decreased stroke. am i on the right track of thinking?
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your stroke determines your rev... a 3.25 stroke should allow for some good revs... now the second parts of that equation is your cam. It has to support those revs and make usable power up there.

 

Also think about the manifolds your using... runner lenths can determine power output at certian rpm ranges as well.

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Guest aftermidnight

right now i have a edelbrock performer rpm intake,i'm going this weekend to get a new cam with around a 467" lift and a smaller duration. i am also using the hooker super comp long tubes with 1 3/4 primaries. i'm pretty sure i'm in the ballpark but i'm open to any input on intakes and cam ideas. this car is a dedicated road race/open track car so street driving isn't a concern that much.

 

[ 12. January 2005, 05:28 PM: Message edited by: aftermidnight ]

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