Guest steven Posted April 17, 2005 Report Share Posted April 17, 2005 i have a 91 tsi turbo talon 5spd it ran a 13.6 but bounced and hopped real bad all through first and pulls real hard to the left untill i hit 2 and then it white smokes for a lil then finally catches grip what can i do? i think if it didnt spin the tires so bad i could get a way better time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted April 17, 2005 Report Share Posted April 17, 2005 could be a couple things causing it check your controlm arm bushing ,lower your tire psi really should invest in a posi diff sounds as if your spinning one wheel!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallard Posted April 17, 2005 Report Share Posted April 17, 2005 Get some stiffer motor mounts too. (Or fill the empty space on the stock ones) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPLN SUX Posted April 18, 2005 Report Share Posted April 18, 2005 what they said + tubular a-arms. The a-arms wont reduce it, they will ELIMINATE it. A set usually comes with a full set of polyurathane bushings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallard Posted April 18, 2005 Report Share Posted April 18, 2005 Originally posted by Volvolution: what they said + tubular a-arms. The a-arms wont reduce it, they will ELIMINATE it. A set usually comes with a full set of polyurathane bushings.I would tend to disagree. How will tubular A-arms eliminate a drivetrain resonance? As far as I know it's your bushings and motor mounts. Do it cheaply and fill your motor mounts with 3M window weld. (It has polyurethane in it and is a common "mod") If it's not completely gone move on to stiffer bushings. [ 18. April 2005, 07:04 PM: Message edited by: Mallard ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dq driver Posted April 18, 2005 Report Share Posted April 18, 2005 alignment, different launching technique, changing tire pressure, and do this http://www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm Better take it easy or you're next post will be "WTB tranny" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted April 18, 2005 Report Share Posted April 18, 2005 Napa lifetime guarantee axles will also be your new friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest steven Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 great advice guys i did lower the tire pressure but i wasnt sure what to lower it to so maybe i didnt let out enough air and how much would those tubeular cost? plus how do you know it would cure it? but one thing is for sure my launch is perfact for my power and what i have done for the car a guy i met that races these cars and works on them at buschar racing told me what to do but im goin to chech into a posi dif how much would that run me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dq driver Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 Originally posted by high boost talon: but one thing is for sure my launch is perfact for my power and what i have done for the car NO. buschar racinggraemlins/slap.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dq driver Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 . . . . and you forgot these Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPLN SUX Posted April 28, 2005 Report Share Posted April 28, 2005 Originally posted by Mallard: I would tend to disagree. How will tubular A-arms eliminate a drivetrain resonance? As far as I know it's your bushings and motor mounts. Do it cheaply and fill your motor mounts with 3M window weld. (It has polyurethane in it and is a common "mod") If it's not completely gone move on to stiffer bushings.This is actully something i dont know for sure... how they work that is. But if i had to make an educated guess id say its the way they are constructed. Your factory arm is made to be pretty ridgid to stand up to pot holes and metal plates and all that crap on the road. The tubular arms are made for track use... the worst of which might be tracks like Neurenburg, Leguna Seca, or Hockenheim. They are made to more or less twist... like a torsion bar. This apperently absorbs thos eresonant forces that cause wheel hop. Thats just my guess.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BillB Posted April 29, 2005 Report Share Posted April 29, 2005 Originally posted by Volvolution: This is actully something i dont know for sure... how they work that is. But if i had to make an educated guess id say its the way they are constructed. Your factory arm is made to be pretty ridgid to stand up to pot holes and metal plates and all that crap on the road. The tubular arms are made for track use... the worst of which might be tracks like Neurenburg, Leguna Seca, or Hockenheim. They are made to more or less twist... like a torsion bar. This apperently absorbs thos eresonant forces that cause wheel hop. Thats just my guess.... Wow.... Please don't ever post on anything technical. "EVAR" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BillB Posted April 29, 2005 Report Share Posted April 29, 2005 Originally posted by high boost talon: but one thing is for sure my launch is perfact for my power and what i have done for the car Go read your first post. There you say the car hopped all over the place. You will need to launch in a way that doesn't cause that to happen until you fix the problem. As others have said, you can start with motor mounts and bushings. Stiffer rebound shock valving will also help, but that is more of a band-aid to fix the symptoms, not the problem. Also, in case you don't know. Tubular control arms are used because they are very stiff. Stock control arms are made from sheetmetal on a lot of cars and can deform under load. Tubular arms can reduce the deformation under load and they are lighter than stock parts generally. They would usually be considered one of the last things to do on a car unless they fix another problem. For example, on Chevelles most of the tubular control arms are made to change the camber curve so it will go negative on jounce, where stock will go positive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted April 29, 2005 Report Share Posted April 29, 2005 havn't been under a talon in awhile, but you might try some of these things. sticky tires equal lenght axles solid motor mounts runner a stiffer rear shock/spring (keeps the front from lifting so much) you can even replace the rear shock with a piece of pipe with shock eyes welded on it this will keep the front of the car planted when you get it on it (not for street duty though) as a band aid you can ride the clutch out of the hole a little when you luanch and then stand on it 60 or 80 feet out. it ruins your 60' time but it keeps the car from bouncing around so much wich can break shit hope some of this helps its a little harder to get a fwd down the track but it is possible smile.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPLN SUX Posted April 30, 2005 Report Share Posted April 30, 2005 Originally posted by BillB: Wow.... Please don't ever post on anything technical. "EVAR"Hey i said it was a guess... i really dont know. All i know, is ive heard of people using them to eliminate it. You abviously had zero positive things to bring to this post so maybe its you who shouldnt be posting Arent we supposed to run an AutoX sometime in the near future??? $100 w/ a 1 second handicap on my end i think it was? Still up for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trouble Maker Posted May 1, 2005 Report Share Posted May 1, 2005 Originally posted by Volvolution: You abviously had zero positive things to bring to this post...I consider this to be an abviously positive contribution to the board. Originally posted by BillB: Please don't ever post on anything technical. "EVAR" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeosu27 Posted May 2, 2005 Report Share Posted May 2, 2005 Jesse, I think someone's feelings are hurt! And by feelings, I mean pussy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aftermidnight Posted May 4, 2005 Report Share Posted May 4, 2005 hey, as far as a cost stand point, get all new poly mounts for the engine and trans. then go with an adjustable struts so you can go stiffer on bound and lighter on rebound to help plant and hold the tires and to help with the wheel hop. it worked on my old car and not too much in dough.i didn't have to sell my left arm in the process. graemlins/thumb.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black ITR Guy Posted May 10, 2005 Report Share Posted May 10, 2005 Originally posted by aftermidnight: i didn't have to sell my left arm in the process. graemlins/thumb.gif cant say that about his right nut though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aftermidnight Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 Originally posted by BLACK ITR GUY: cant say that about his right nut though i sure do miss mr.righty..... graemlins/nutkick.gif ..... graemlins/thatfunny.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest turboteg2nv Posted May 25, 2005 Report Share Posted May 25, 2005 I just bought the Energy Suspension motor mount inserts and that completely eliminated all wheel hop. Don't use the 3M window weld, it won't last for more than a year. For $40 bucks or whatever it costs for the ES mounts, it's the best way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1sweet3.4 Posted June 16, 2005 Report Share Posted June 16, 2005 hahahhaha. Tubular steel twists more than a piece of plate steel with a stamped steel arm welded to it. hahahahahah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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