McGraw Posted February 9, 2005 Report Share Posted February 9, 2005 alright recently rebuilt my holley 600 CFM 4160 carb. (my first carb rebuild) now for those of you who know what they're doing carb wise, I'm starting to think I put it together wrong. But I made sure all the gaskets met with all the hols and rechecked it. symptons : (I know B.S. trying to do this on-line but maybe ya can offer SOME advice.) it burns heavy blue smoke with black tint to it, oil and just THAT rich? won't idle unless I have my foot on it a little bit, and then it's really rough, I've tried getting it to operating temp but it's honestly feels like it's going to rattle the car apart. if someone could give me some 'standard' turns for some of the screws I just need to get it to cover about 14 miles today and then a buddy of mine can actually tune it at school. But he can't make it out here for another two weeks or more cause thats his next day off... bummed. The engine has always been real strong and the only thing I can think of for explaining the blue smoke is my piston rings are fried and it's burning oil. I can't get it running long enough to check levels but it smells REALLY rich.. Hoping you guys got something ya can give me. Because if I don't get this straightened out it's not going to make it home. (Ohio) heh if it's not one thing it's another. Thanks! McGraw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted February 9, 2005 Report Share Posted February 9, 2005 You only need to adjust 2 screws, correct? One for the right side, one for the left if remember right. Somebody else will have to jump in here, but I believe you take the screws all the way in, then back each of the 2 out a half a turn, then go from there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McGraw Posted February 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2005 well I was told to back them out a turn and 1/4 those are just the idle screws though. I need to get it to idle so that I can readjust the floats, because of the mechanical fuel pump and not electrical, it won't hold fuel in the line. So the vacuum has to be there for me to get any kind of accurate reading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted February 9, 2005 Report Share Posted February 9, 2005 I dont know man. http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 10secondMouse Posted February 9, 2005 Report Share Posted February 9, 2005 On each side of the primary metering block there should be 2 small screws, as a bench setting screw them all the way in, them back each of them out about 1 1/2 turns. Next is the idle speed screw, it should be on the drivers side of the carb, next to the base plate, adjust it so you can see about .020-.030 thousandths of the idle transfer slot (carb must be off to do this).And lastly, re-check the float level, take the float bowls off and turn them upside down, you should be able to fit a 1/2 inch drill bit between the float and bowl, if not adjust floats to do so. This should get you close, if you have access to a vacuum guage this will help also, then you can fine tune the idle/air mixture screws (2 screws on metering block) by adjusting them so you get highest vacuum reading at an idle. And don't be alarmed if you may have to re-adjust the idle after you get theses set. Also, lok at the boosters on the carb while running, if fuel is coming out of them while idling, lower the float level, or lower fuel pressure if possible. Good luck, hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted February 9, 2005 Report Share Posted February 9, 2005 I can make it run right. pm me and set something up and I'll come take a look at it. theres no set turns for the screws you just have to set the iel and then paly with the mixture and readjust the idel a couple times. I'll teach you how to do it so you can do it yourself its going to need adjusted periodically anyway to keep it tip top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nurkvinny Posted February 9, 2005 Report Share Posted February 9, 2005 Originally posted by DonkeyPunchmotorsports: On each side of the primary metering block there should be 2 small screws, as a bench setting screw them all the way in, them back each of them out about 1 1/2 turns. Next is the idle speed screw, it should be on the drivers side of the carb, next to the base plate, adjust it so you can see about .020-.030 thousandths of the idle transfer slot (carb must be off to do this).And lastly, re-check the float level, take the float bowls off and turn them upside down, you should be able to fit a 1/2 inch drill bit between the float and bowl, if not adjust floats to do so. This should get you close, if you have access to a vacuum guage this will help also, then you can fine tune the idle/air mixture screws (2 screws on metering block) by adjusting them so you get highest vacuum reading at an idle. And don't be alarmed if you may have to re-adjust the idle after you get theses set. Also, lok at the boosters on the carb while running, if fuel is coming out of them while idling, lower the float level, or lower fuel pressure if possible. Good luck, hope this helps. Good write up. This will get you close. If you still have issues with the car even running after that, you have non-induction issues, or you hosed up the rebuild. Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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