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I need someone who can do QUALITY welding ASAP!!!


Nitrousbird

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I have two very different items that need welded.

 

Item #1. Got my boat running yesterday (89 Sea Ray w/ 3.0L Mercrusier I/O), and it ran great except the motor was leaking water. Took off the exhaust/intake manifold (they are a single unit, as boats water cool their exhaust), and I found a thin, 8" crack in the block that water is coming out of.

 

I need some who can weld blocks. Its an iron block. The motor does NOT need to come out of the boat to weld it; there is a TON of room around the crack to work (that motor is cake to work on :D ). Its towards the upper portion of the block; IMHO, it looks like a pretty easy weld job, but since I don't really know how to weld, that's really not my call.

 

Item #2. This is for my car. On the back of my fuel rail, there is a fuel test port that is a 4AN connection. This is where my fuel for my nitrous is tapped into. Sadly, its not a very strong connection, and this last time of taking off the line, the fitting snapped. :( I've been told it can be TIG welded back on. I have both the old fitting, or I could buy another 4AN fitting to have welded on to it. I DESPERATELY NEED THIS WELDED ON ASAP. Just half the fuel rail is over $200 from a highly discounted dealer, and since I'm not unemployed, that's a no-go. I called every junk yard in Columbus, and that's a hell-no item. This is the one item that's keeping me from finally getting my car running after the heads/cam project.

 

Anyone that can help, PLEASE call me: 325-8752. Yes, I WILL pay you to do a good job!!! Don't post back/e-mail me, since I don't have internet at my new house yet, so I won't be able to check it for a day or two. If the world were fair, I'd like to get the fuel rail done tomorrow, and the block done by at least next Wed., so that I can take the boat out next week (the hell if I'd want to take it out this weekend; the lakes are CRAZY on the holidays). Yes, I can tow the boat to anywhere it needs to go to get welded, I just need it done!

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Hey Joey..

 

About the block: The block on my dad's Mercruiser cracked ~5 years ago. Anyways a friend of mine got a trick from a marina and used puddy for body work. I had my doubts at first but he sanded it down and used the body filler to fix the cracked block. Like I said it's been about 5 years and no problems. Boats run so cool that heat isnt a concern like it would be on a car..

 

About the fuel rail: I talked to the same friend about welding the water line on Jason's car and he thought the line would be too thin to weld. The fuel line seems to be about the same thickness. Maybe there is more of a welding expert here?.. But did you see Larry posted a fuel rail for sale on cofba?

 

latah,

Sam

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You might think its ghetto, but it'll work.

 

You could JB weld the -AN fitting to the fuel rail... I had to do that with my '92 DSM when I upgraded to 7/16" fuel line and it worked nicely.

 

GL

Jason

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Originally posted by Blupastu TSi:

You might think its ghetto, but it'll work.

 

You could JB weld the -AN fitting to the fuel rail... I had to do that with my '92 DSM when I upgraded to 7/16" fuel line and it worked nicely.

 

GL

Jason

Interesting.. I'll let Joe know.. I used JB Weld on my friend's water line and was wondering if it would hold. That's some good info. I wasn't sure if it would hold water pressure let alone fuel pressure but if you say it's working it's definitely worth a try.. smile.gif

 

[ 23 May 2002, 03:59 PM: Message edited by: SamZman ]

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yeap, works great. I saw that idea from one of the DSM vFaq's so I guess it works for more people than just me.

 

The original vFaq said to thread the fuel rail for the -AN fitting, but was updated (I guess because that leaked) to say just use JB Weld.

 

When mixed properly, its some strong ass stuff.

 

GL

 

[ 24 May 2002, 08:22 AM: Message edited by: Blupastu TSi ]

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I can braze the fitting on if there is a small overlap of some sort, like where the fitting fits inside the rail. That is actually how I have made a bunch of steel AN fitting adapt to normal type fuel rails, like on Jeff's VR4.

 

I just need a welding rod and an Acetylene torch, which I of course do not own. So if you can come up with one I could help you out. How easily does your fuel rail and injectors come out? You will need to remove everything from the rail, since it will get nice and hot.

 

Got a pic I can see of it? Certain types of joints do better with brazing then others, but I have never had a fuel fitting leak yet where it has been brazed properly. And the fuel system on Carl's car (the 930) uses some very high pressures in the lines of the CIS system, as in apporaching the limit of what the braided steel line can handle.

 

[ 23 May 2002, 06:16 PM: Message edited by: Renner ]

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Guest 614Streets
I could weld your block for you. I couldnt do the line unless I saw it , I might have another solution. Just saw this post sorry if its old news.
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Guest 614Streets
About your fuel line you could buy a compression fitting like the one used with my type of Nitrous kit and be done with it. I'll get the part # If you want? The line is probably 3/8 OEM.
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