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heads and cam suggestions


Guest SmOkEn Z28

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Guest SmOkEn Z28
ok, i'm thinking about getting a combo package(heads and cam). i just wondering if that would be a good idea for the money, its goin to cost around $3000.00. i'm taking it to nutech and he said depending on what cam i want to use he could put 400rwhp in my car. its a 95z28 with bbk headers,fipk,hooker cat back,off road y pipe,k&n. i know the rear end on these cars aren't the greatest but i'm willing to take the chance on that. so if anyone has any suggestions on if this is a good move or not i would like to know. also if i got that done does anyone know if i would need anything else added since there will be about 400hp besides a rear end?
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it wil end up costing more then 3k for the blower, go for heads and cam.

i have a 22/224-114 and its great.

do you have emisions, id go big if you dont maybe a 224/227-112 get your heads milled some to raise CR to about 11:1 and youll scoot.

not sure what size injectors you have but you might run out of fuel.

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Guest SmOkEn Z28
i dont know too much about putting heads and cam in my car, i'm taking to nutech in northwest ohio, they said its like 2500$ for the package. so i'm probably going to take like 3500$out because its goin to cost alot for them to pull my motor and put it back in. so i hoping that i just take it there, let them do the work and when its done its ready to run. he said that he can give me 350 to 400 rwhp depending on what cam i want him to put in.
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They should not have to pull the motor to put heads n cam in it. The radiator will come out and the cam slides right in and the heads are removable without removing the motor.

 

You could get AFR 195's and a CC306 but it would be a little more then $2500, they are probably porting your stock heads and putting in a CC306 cam. Definitely get the 306 cam regardless of the heads its a good package.

 

A guy in our club has that cam and ported LT1 heads and put down 384RWHP. :D

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Originally posted by BC:

I say just save the $3000 for a blower. With heads and cam you'll need bigger injectors, TB, intake and a fuel pump as well. Is that all included in the price?

- Bigger injectors are a maybe. If you are running a smaller cam and so-so heads, not needed. Better heads, can get away with stock injectors and increased fuel pressure. Or, maybe just go w/ larger injectors: $175 will get you a used set of 30# SVO's or something like that

 

- TB....my ported head/306 cam car has a stock TB.

 

- My intake is bone stock

 

- My fuel pump was stock, but I had to upgrade it so I could run nitrous w/ the heads/cam.

 

If you want just 400 RWHP, I say go w/ a GOOD set of ported LT1 heads (I know a guy who does great work on heads...should have had him done mine) and a bigger type cam, be it a 306 or better yet, a custom grind matched to the heads.

 

It will cost more than $3000 installed, I'm willing to bet. Remember, you also will want new RR's, all new gaskets, timing set (either go electric water pump and a double roller, or LT4 heavy duty), lifters if the stockers are worn, pushrods if you have the heads milled to much (or if any are bent), head bolts or studds, etc. I'd say I have about $3000 in parts on my setup. I went the more expensive route on some of the stuff though (I also did the 95 Opti conversion).

 

And don't forget, you have to tune it too. Yes, a blower will be an easier install, but will cost you a little more in parts, and the heads/cam will be easier on your bottom end and should make a little more power, depending on how much boost you run.

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Originally posted by BC:

Ok....here's an idea :D Sell the camaro and buy a Mustang. MUCH easier to work on and wayyyyy cheaper. ;) I'm not being an ass, just giving some advice.

What's so much cheaper (considering EFI for the same exact motor mods we are talking about doing here):

- Injectors = cost exactly the same, since we use the same injectors

 

- Fuel system upgrades will be REQUIRED on the 5.0 from what I've heard (and fuel pumps cost about the same on both cars regardless, but I'm unsure on how much HP the stock 5.0 lines can handle on normal fuel pressures...LT1 lines are around 600-700 RWHP N/A)

 

- Intake upgrades will be NEEDED on the 5.0; stock LT1 intake is just peachy

 

- Heads...yes, your selection of heads is better, but don't think there are not any good head choices out there (large selection of AFR heads, can still get used Canfields, GM LT1/LT4 castings can be taken quite far, if you have lots of dough and are going with an extreme setup the Arao 32V heads are freaking trick). A good set of ported LT1 castings, with new valves, springs, retainers, valve job, CNC+hand porting, the whole 9 yards is going to cost you around $1500 (unless you blow your money with places like ARE or GTP). To get about the same flow out of an aftermarket set of 5.0 heads, you are probably going to spend at least that amount

 

- PCM can be reflashed; hell Tunercat is a $90 investment, plus $90 for the cable. Scanning software can be had for nothing (Freescan) Have to spend more for burned chips on the 5.0. Or you can do mail-order PCM re-programs for under $200.

 

- Gaskets and head bolts or studds are going to be relatively the same cost

- Cam's will cost about the same

- RR's will cost the same

 

- If you go electric waterpump, any SBC timing chain can be used. Otherwise, have to use the more expensive LT4 chain, so there is around a $100 cost savings the 5.0 has.

 

This is ASSUMING (I really don't know), that the stock 5.0 cooling system is up to the task, that the stock throttle body and MAF sensor can be retained, that the stock pushrods can be retained, stock lifters can be retained, and anything else I may not know about. I'm also assuming (and I'd highly guess this is the case), that cam swaps can be made on the 5.0 without having to remove anything drastic.

 

Yes, the 5.0 may be a little easier to work on in some respects, but compare the LT1 to say any of the high performance Japanese imports (Supra stick in my head specifically after helping Howard with his a little bit), the LT1 is freaking CAKE.

 

So where is this cost savings...actually, the 5.0 looks a lot MORE expensive for the same type of mods!! And I'm talking about the mods at hand, not bolt-ons he already has, driveline mods (though technically, your rear ends may be stronger, but your tranny's are FAR weaker), etc. We are talking about the mods he plans on doing. From what I can tell, you'll be spending far more on the 5.0. Yes, I fully realize that there is a HUGE amount of used 5.0 stuff out there, but for something like this, there is enough used LT1 stuff to be had to, if you want to go that route.

 

There is nothing wrong with modding either car, but 5.0 guys just love to think that their cars are always FAR cheaper to mod, when many times it isn't the case. Yes, the cost of the car is usually less (what do you expect, they are older cars). Certain other mods are cheaper, but if we are going to do direct comparisons, it sure looks like the LT1 is the smarter car to mod.

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And I also don't think they are as hard to work on as people may think. Generally, the people saying this have never even worked on the car, or have very little experience. Heads and cam swaps aren't really bad at all and there also isn't anything too difficult w/ an entire engine swap. It's easy to pop the hood and say it looks crammed without actually working on it. I think it's worth the little extra trouble to have a car that doesn't look like a sedan ;)smile.gif

 

Oh, but to the original post. You didn't give us much to comment on. What heads are you going w/? Valve size, cc's? What cam are you thinking about getting? As already said you'll need injectors and maybe a fuel pump.

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Guest SmOkEn Z28
i dont know what the hell they are going to use. i was just planning on taking it to nu-teck and let them do what they have to do to make my car faster.i heard they do good work so i'm hoping i can trust them. i'm just wondering if heads and cam are worth the money. i just dont want to get my car back and have to sink more money into it becuase i'll have close to 400hp. just kinda weary about it :confused:
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I'm no expert for sure but if you only want to spend $3000 you'd better drive it easy when you get it back. If you're on the stock clutch and rear-end they probably won't put up with much abuse.
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