Doug1647545489 Posted March 6, 2003 Report Share Posted March 6, 2003 My turbo came with a flange but it used a metal line and they just cut that. Will a high heat/pressure hose clamped onto that be enough? I see most other kits screw on but I don't want to buy another flange if I don't have to. Whats the most oil pressure does the average 4 cyc see? I'm guessing the hose will pop off thats why most screw in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Science Abuse Posted March 6, 2003 Report Share Posted March 6, 2003 Heat changes things. I wouldn't trust something that important to a clamp. Coming to applebees? Lemme look at it, I a bit fuzzy on what ya mean. You can join hardlines though, if dats what you speak tongue.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renner Posted March 6, 2003 Report Share Posted March 6, 2003 Is the flange itself still intact? If so, you can cut off the remaining portion of the tube flush with the top of the flange, and then just drill out the center of the flange, and tap it with some threads. You can get an adaptor fitting from Jegs that will work fairly easily. You will most likely need either a –4 to 1/8” pipe thread or a –4 to 1/4” pipe thread fitting. Just see what size works best for the size of the flange, and then make sure that you have whatever tap size. If they have some other fittings that work better, go ahead and try one of those instead. This is just off the top of my head, and the guys there should be able to steer you in the right direction if you bring in the flange and tell them what you need to do with it. Then with the AN fitting you can use any kind of Aeroquip or Russell hose that you want, with a regular 90 degree –4 AN fitting on the hose, or whatever fitting works best for your setup, but it will prob be a 90. You will then have a solid fitting on the turbo that you know won’t back off or leak, and you can run braided steel line to it. I believe that 3 feet of the –4 braided steel Russell hose runs about $15.00, and the adaptor fitting should cost about $3, and the 90 is probably $5. Try to get the adaptor fitting in steel if you can, because it will be more durable, but the steel will be slightly more expensive and they probably won’t have it on hand. The regular anodized aluminum will still work fine, and will most likely be in stock. You will still have to do something for the other end of the feed line, but a normal hose clamp will prob work fine there as long as you double up. BTW: here is a pic of the adaptor fitting that I am talking about: http://www.jegs.com/photos/023FCM2178.jpg The right half is the pipe thread that will thread into the modified flange. The left half will be the normal –4 AN fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug1647545489 Posted March 6, 2003 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2003 hmm Thats what I was thinking. Anybody have a tap I could use? Now the hose, does it have the fittings on the end or is it just hose. When I start adding all the parts up for a DIY kit it turns out more expensive then a regular custom oil line kit. But I sill need to get the oil feed flange tapped because the kit does come with one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted March 6, 2003 Report Share Posted March 6, 2003 I've got a bunch of NPT taps what size do you need?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest relvinnian Posted March 7, 2003 Report Share Posted March 7, 2003 Originally posted by Doug: hmm Thats what I was thinking. Anybody have a tap I could use? Now the hose, does it have the fittings on the end or is it just hose. When I start adding all the parts up for a DIY kit it turns out more expensive then a regular custom oil line kit. But I sill need to get the oil feed flange tapped because the kit does come with one. The hose Brett is referring to has fittings on the end, and is braided ss hose. Also make sure you do not drill the flange diameter too large, or your turbo will loose oil pressure on the inlet. All you really want is to drill it to accomidate your tap. Keep it as close to original diameter as you can. I'm sure you know this, but it doesn't hurt as a reminder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokinHawk1647545499 Posted March 7, 2003 Report Share Posted March 7, 2003 I wouldnt skimp. If you loose oil, there goes your motor and turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraGlue Posted March 7, 2003 Report Share Posted March 7, 2003 For the hose, there are a couple of things you can do that are cheaper than SS braid. One, hard line. Lots of people use this for oil feed and return lines, including OEMs. Just keep the bends nice and gentle, and it's all good. Another option is Aeroquip AQP socketless hose. It's a press in hose with barbed hose fittings that doesn't use clamps. It's rated to 250psi and something like 300F. I'm not sure what size you'll need for that feed line. I've got some -6 here, but that might be too big. I think you can get brass NPT fittings for it and the hose is a couple of bucks a foot. Figure on around $10-$15 for the whole line, maybe less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renner Posted March 7, 2003 Report Share Posted March 7, 2003 True, the braided stainless isn't the cheapest. But it is much easier then solid steel line if you have more then a few bends to get from the oil feed source to the turbo. Also, with the braided steel, you will only have to do it once, because that shit lasts forever no matter how much you move it around. The sold steel line will fatigue very easily if you bend it more then a few times, like when removing or installing the turbo more then once. Last time I checked, the smallest size that the Aeroquip socketless came in was -6, and -6 will most likely be too big for the oil feed line. Too much oil pressure to the CHRA will cause seal failure, so the -4 is usually a perfect size. I'm pretty sure the shortest length they sell the socketless in is 10 ft, so the braided steel could turn out to be cheaper anyway since I doubt you need any more then 3 feet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20G TSi Posted March 7, 2003 Report Share Posted March 7, 2003 the high pressure hose and clamps would prolly work just fine - hell, thats what mitsubishi uses from the factory for its turbo coolant lines... and they're not even high torque clamps. I'd flare the hard line somewhat, use some fiberglass reinforced hose and double clamp it. If you've got the money to do it the way these other fellows have mentioned, then do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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