Fox body Sn95 swap Q's

[Buckeye1647545503]

has anyone on here done said swap yet ?

[OGRE]

swaping what from what to what?

[Buckeye1647545503]

the five lug swap

I did it to my notch but have a few small things I am wondering how others solved the problems/ or if there are parts avail for this

[Mark1647545493]

The rear axles are longer on the SN95 so I bought two right side ranger axles to use on my 89.

 

What opther problems are you running into?

[Buckeye1647545503]

ya the rear is no prob that was so easy my problems all lie up front.

 

Ok set up is a 4 banger 91 notch with spindles, rotors, calipers off of a 98 the things I ran in to are one the shank on the lower ball joint is taller than the 98. I was not sure if the 98 one will swap out in the 91 control arms. But I have at full lock a small rub prob. so I am wondering if a tubular arm would be better than a spacer since the fender lip is real close. Second is what is the best way to do the brakes I was going to try a gt master and see. but I was wondering is a adjustable valve would be best to add.

[MrMeanGreen]

Moving to Tech...

[88lx5oh]

gt master and a wilwood adjuster would be a good idea.

[88lx5oh]

best i could find

 

* Spindles - Any 1994-up Mustang can provide the spindles. However, there is a difference between the two major styles. In relation to the standard Fox spindle, the 1994-95 Mustang spindle moves the ball joint 20mm forward, 27mm outward, and 1mm down. The wheel center moved 17mm forward, 23mm outward, but is the same height. The outer tie rod end is moved 20mm forward, 41 mm outward, and 4mm up. The second style is the 1996-2004 Mustang spindle, which compared to the earlier '94-'95 spindle, has the lower ball joint moved 1mm rearward, 5mm inward, and 2mm down. The wheel center also moved 1mm rearward, but is the same width and height. The inner tie rod end is the same fore/aft and width, but moved down 28mm. This may all sound confusing, but in a nutshell, the 1996-2004 spindles lower the point where the tie rod attaches by about 1", and also pushes the spindles out slightly. They are more conducive for performance driving (autocrossing, etc.) but will require slightly modified alignment settings. A set of caster/camber plates will work greatly with them, and a bump steer kit is recommended. They also have a revised casting that will allow for larger brakes later on, should you choose to do so. There is nothing wrong with using the 1994-95 spindles at all. They work perfectly well with stock caster/camber settings on a Fox Cougar/Thunderbird. Just remember, DO NOT mix 1994-95 and 1996-2004 spindles! You MUST get a matching pair.

* Calipers - Again, any 1994-up Mustang can provide those, so long as they match the rotor size (see Rotors below).

* Brake Lines - It may be possible to reuse yours, but if not, then 1994-up Mustang ones can be used.

* Tie Rods - You will need to change at least your inner tie rods to SN95 (1994-04 Mustang) specs. You can try to use SN95 outers first, but most people report having to change the inners as well. If you're lowering or have already lowered the car, you should go with a good quality bump steer kit in place of tie rods. Jeremy writes, "Fox inner/outer tie rods have SAE threads. SN95 inner/outer tie rods have Metric threads. If you go SN95, you must change both inner and outer."

* Ball Joints - You will need to change ball joints to SN95 specs. If you're keeping the stock ride height, the stock pieces are fine. Otherwise we'd highly recommend Steeda's X2 ball joints.

* Hubs - This is a sealed unit that contains both inner and outer bearings, and all seals. It simply slides over the hub and is bolted down with one large nut beneath the dust cap. Any 1994-up Mustang can provide the hubs; they're all the same. Auto Zone carries new hubs from Timken for about $70 each. Ford sells remanufactured units (check dealership for pricing).

* Brackets - These hold the caliper to the spindle. The system is designed for easier brake size upgrades; for example, if you were to ever go from 11" to 13" Cobra rotors, the appropriate bracket change is also needed. Make sure your brackets match the calipers and rotors (see below). Bracket bolts (2 per side) are metric!

* Pads - Again, these must match the caliper (see Rotors below).

* Rotors - BE CAREFUL. With the "New Edge" styling of the Mustang in 1999, Ford also made suspension and braking changes with the Mustang across the board. The front rotors increased in size then, and the calipers went to a dual-piston design. Therefore, if you are using 1994-98 calipers then you must use 1994-98 rotors, pads and brackets. And if you're going with 1999-up calipers then obviously you'll need 1999-up rotors, pads and brackets. It is really your choice as to which years' system to use, so long as you understand that everything must match.

[nicktcfcsb]

you will need the newer hose's the 94-95s dont stick out in the front as much as the 96 ups do. IMHO I think the 94-95s are better for the fox swap.

[stolen 5.0]

you can use your stock master cyclinder and booster, i did

also the pass side line you will need an adapter to fit stock hard line, driver's side should screw right in. autozone will have ur 3/8 to 1/4 reducer.

 

i didn't have any problems putting on my 99 cobra spindles and brakes.

[Buckeye1647545503]

well I got all of it done for the time being as I heard about the x2 ball joints from rolla and am going to look into them. And the bump steer kit will be added in the near future when I upgrade/ change the shocks (one alignment) I did not like to but for the time being I used a washer on the ball joints till I can do a tube lower control arm. It looks pretty good but I still NEED 4 banger springs to swap out.