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I was having problems with the gfci on my hot tub. It kept popping. If I pushed it in a few times it would stay. However go back out about 10mins later. So I go pick up what the guy at home depot says is the same one. But this time I get absolutely nothing. 4 wires plus a ground. 2 whites on 1 side and 2 browns on the other. Any suggestions? In the morning I will try to install the old one and see if it will at least try to work like it did before. Is it possible I am hooking the new one up wrong?
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Guest 614Streets
black is gold and hot , white is silver and nuetral (white can be hot sometimes), green is ground , did you hook up your wires to the screws or to the holes in the back?
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I took the white wires off the old white side and back to the white side on the new one. Could it matter which one I put where or are both the terminals on the white side the same. I also did the same with the hot wires on the opposite side. I will try and put the old one back in today and see if I can get it to at least try and start. A gfci is a gfci correct? I bought the same amperage and looks identical.
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Guest 614Streets
Basically you should see one side with gold screws , that side gets the hot wires. The side with the silver screw gets the nuetral wires. You said you have brown and white wires , the brown should be hot , and your whites should be nuetral , BUT sometimes pigtails are used or just hilbillied up and your whites could be hot. Did you hook up a ground wire? Green or bare.
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Guest 614Streets
No if the white are on the silver screws it doesnt matter , I might be wrong but if you accidentaly hooked the brown wire onto the silver side and white on the gold , with that gfci it might not ever reset itself.. Check the braker for that circuit in your basement to after you go white silver , brown gold..
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Okay, I had the line/load wires reversed. It is working. I wont know if the problem is fixed until about 30 mins. Thats when the old gfci would trip off for some unknown reason. Hopefully it was just bad and the problem is solved.

Thanks for the help.

 

Hey 614Streets, I dont know what the reeds are on my boat motor. You suggested cleaning them but I dont know what they are or how to clean them. Any help there?

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Guest 614Streets
Okay, I had the line/load wires reversed. It is working. I wont know if the problem is fixed until about 30 mins. Thats when the old gfci would trip off for some unknown reason. Hopefully it was just bad and the problem is solved.

Thanks for the help.

 

Hey 614Streets, I dont know what the reeds are on my boat motor. You suggested cleaning them but I dont know what they are or how to clean them. Any help there?

 

 

Cool. I forget what your boat engine problem was you have to refresh me on that but the reeds are in a cage called a reed cage , they are just behind the carburetors on every two stroke engine. Basically you never have to clean them but you want to check them to see if they are cracked or broken or stuck. They are little pieces of fiberglass(boysen) or flat steel (oem) that open and shut like a door when the piston draws the air and fuel into the crankcase.

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I wasnt sure if at full throttle, my 25hp mariner should bog down. Last year I replaced the squeeze ball and line that ran from my engine to a fuel line that ran to the tank. I could never get the squeeze ball to feel like it would pressurize. Last week I ran the new line directly to the tank, bypassing the line in between the tank and the new line. After, it did feel like the ball was pressurizing. I'm hoping it just wasnt getting enough fuel at full throttle due to a hole or something in the line I bypassed. Perhaps that small of a motor is just suppose to feel that way when pushed to its max.
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Guest 614Streets
Nah , at Wot that thing should rip. On that mariner is there is a fuel pump with a diaphragm inside that works off crankcase pressure pulses , sometimes that diaphragm cracks or tears. Thats fairly easy to check too. Theres lots of stuff that can be going on though with that bog , high speed timing , compression , prop, boat weight , reeds , junk in the main jet , or even the gas can itself if its not venting properly.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Jason, why do you think it's the GFCI that's your problem? If your popping the GFCI and you replaced it and still have the same problem I would have to assume that your hot tub is pulling more amps that it should be. Does the pump sound like it has more load than normal on it? Could the heater be acting up and drawing more current causing the pop? Do you have a service manual that says how much currnt these componets of the tub should be drawing? If so you could amp clamp the hot wires to see if it's your tub equipment is causing the problem. This tub is 220v, right? I couldn't imagine it drawing more than 30 amps.

Could the bearings in the motor/pump be going bad casuing it to heat up and put more load on the motor?

Moisture is also a possibility.........

 

Hope this helps ya......

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I by no means am an electrician. I replaced the old gfci in hopes it was wearing out. But apparently isn't the case. Unfortunately the model of tub I have, doesnt happen to have alot of information to be found on the net. I guess I need to get ahold of an electrician or a hot tub repair guy. I have been trying to avoid this situation due to the expense I put into my previous tub to no avail. Unfortunately my skills only allow me to replace parts. I am unable to diagnose any problems. Any cheap electricians out there?
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