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Tinman, and anyother RX-7 guys


Rally Pat

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Bump. A little update: I sent the guy an email asking for more pics and info, and that I wanted to know exactly what was wrong with it. BTW, My subject line said "About your FC" to which he replied "Are we talking about the same car?". But that is beside the point.

 

He said he took it to Firestone, and they said that his engine had a " "cracked block" " I put that in double-double quotes intentionally. He said that it had failed a pressure test.

 

Any comments or new car findings?

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He said he took it to Firestone, and they said that his engine had a " "cracked block" " I put that in double-double quotes intentionally. He said that it had failed a pressure test.

 

Any comments or new car findings?

 

Cracked block? Ahahahahahahahahahahahahahah!

 

Seriously, prolly lost a coolant seal. A Compression test would be the best test. Either way you looking at a rebuild.

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That site is cool, but I doubt that I could afford any of their work. I more of a DIY guy anyway. Anywhere I can save a buck or two on this project I am. I have started to draw out maps of how I am going to do this project. Its definately at least going to be a slow process. I want to start with getting the engine in it working fine so I can drive it everyday. Since it takes so little time to dissasemble a rotary, I dont think that will be a big issue. On top of this, I have tools. Lots of tools. Mostly metric because of my dad's misc Audi/VW Products he owned over the years.

 

I am thinking that after I get the 13B all sorted out, I want to do suspension upgrades first so that I at least have something to run competatively for the next Auto-X season. Then when it comes time to put it away again, I will have already bought all the parts I need for whatever engine I settle on. I still dont know for sure if I am going to do the LT1 swap. Hell, I might even try to track down a TII and put that in. What it is all going to come down to is what mood I am in when the time for the engine modding starts.

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For parts; get on the RX 7 club forum. Those guys sell more than you can keep up with. I easily have bought $5000 worth off there and did not pay that for it. An example is my clutch and flywheel set up, would have been $950 plus shipping and tax. I got it to my door for $450. I don't even need parts anymore and I look on there everyday. Pay cash for all you can to avoid tax and if you don't have paypal, get it. Make sure if you don't know the guys at the RX 7 store, you go introduce yourself. they have great deals you can catch and are able to point you in the right direction on many things.
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Yeah, I have glanced over at the RX-7 club forum and I see a lot of stuff there. I might even be able to find the car I am looking for there. I still dont know about buying this guy's FC yet though. He said there was some spotted rust here and there, and the thing with the engine has me a bit worried for getting it home at least.

 

I also found the site I would use if I were going to go ahead with an LT1 swap:

http://www.grannysspeedshop.com/

 

They have weld-less bolt in engine kits that make sure everything fits in the right spot.

 

Damn, this whole thing has me excited like you have no idea.

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Bump: Another update. I was able to talk him all the way down to $750 (haggling ftw), but he said that I needed to arrange for towing since the car overheats quickly once it is started. I need to sell the van first to the guy that wants it on The Autocross Forum ( http://www.autocrossforum.com), and then I am going to go get it from him. Can anyone help me out with towing?
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where is he located exactly? i've read on the rx7 forum that people limp it home with just one rotor, overheating, etc. you may be able to get it you your house and into the garage, pat, but you know that means we gotta throw all the sh*t to one side, lol.

JUST BUY IT!!!!

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where is he located exactly? i've read on the rx7 forum that people limp it home with just one rotor, overheating, etc. you may be able to get it you your house and into the garage, pat, but you know that means we gotta throw all the sh*t to one side, lol.

JUST BUY IT!!!!

 

LMAO! Well, at least there isnt nearly as much shit on the side I want to put the car in as there is on the other side. Yeah, we might be able to limp it home, but somehow I doubt it. The dude said that it overheats real fast. The thing I am happiest about is the fact that he agreed to wait till I get the Shaggin Wagon sold before I bought his.

 

This much is for certain, that car will be mine.

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Shoot me a PM when you are closer to doing this and I will let you know if I can help you out on the towing.

 

Towing in town shouldn't be more than $75 either way. If you have a rotary, you have to have AAA plus. $75 a year and 4 tows up to 100 miles. Might be worth it to get it now.

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if you take out the thermostat with a blown coolant seal you will prolly dump your coolant into the combustion chamber quicker although coolant seals are funny and dont always do what you think. I got a good TII motor shipped to my door for 1200. I bought a non running 86 GXL for 300. THe motor was thrashed and it was cheaper to buy the used jdm motor. I have around 275 hp stock turbo and a completely new suspension and other parts and the project is at around $4500 into it. If you want to go TII I have some parts you will need: ecu, tranny, driveshaft. I did this swap last winter.
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Coolant won't get inside the combustion area with the engine running. The combustion pressures are much greater than the cooling system pressure. It will push the coolant into the overflow.

 

Blown coolant seal cars have a tendancy to overheat pretty quickly. Running with a cored thermostat gives you a decent amount of time before the car even gets up to temp. You can pretty much get where you need to go.

 

Oh... and that car is a Series 4. On those 1/4 of the way up on the temp gauge is "Normal". Anything above halfway is pretty much overheat area.

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