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Car wont even click over due to chip in key


Guest hotrodmama024

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Guest hotrodmama024

If someone can point me in the right direction on this, i would greatly appreciate it.... When i put my key in the ignition every light turns on but wont even click over, completly dead. My security light stays on. I have used alcohol qtips to clean the contacts in my ignition, an eraser, unhooked negative to reset the computer. After 3 or 4 hours of fucking with it, it finally restarts and went a week and now it wont start again. I was told here is no way to bypass the whole security chip in the key. Is my only option to get an ignition cylinder and get new keys? Please help! Thanks

 

Leilani

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bring it too the shop and we can fix it....first link in my sig...talk too mike.

 

 

are you sure the sercuity system is doing it. and not a bad starter? normally when that system kicks in , its starts and runs for 5- 10 secs and dies, and the light flashs...

 

lmk...

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The VATS system in F-Bodies never allows the car to start and run if it's not receiving a signal. Not for 5-10 seconds, not at all. It disables the starter and ignition system.

 

The "signal" is a resistance measured by the Body Control Module (BCM) in the form of a chip on the ignition key, preprogrammed into the BCM and received through the ignition circuit from the key cylinder.

 

Usually, a dirty chip on the key causes the above problem, changing the static resistance. More often than not, it occurs on the summer when a sudden change from an AC controlled environment to outside heat causes condensation on the chip.

 

Now, she said she cleaned the contacts in the ignition. Leilani, did you somehow clean the contacts within the ignition cylinder, or the chip itself? Use isoprophyl alcohol or electronics contact cleaner on the chip, as it will not leave a residue afterwards. I'd also try a different key as well, especially because somehow the chip in your "regular" everyday key may have become damaged, varying the resistance of it's chip.

 

Hopefully this works, but if not, there's alternatives:

 

1) Disable the VATS system, either with a PCM editor like HPTuners or EFILive, or bypass the circuit. You'll need to measure the resistance of the chip, and run the appropriate resistor in-line with the orange wire coming from your ignition cylinder. But this effectively kills your anti-theft system.

 

2) Continue to troubleshoot the problem, but that can cost some serious $$$.

 

3) Replace the ignition cylinder and keys, but you're looking at $300 without labor, and you'll have to special order the specific one for your BCM, or;

 

4) Replace the BCM and cylinder/key set, which will run upwards of $700 not including labor.

 

Again, the above are worst-case scenarios. Try the chip and another key. If you absolutely cannot figure it out, I'll be home Friday night and will be more than willing to work on the problem :)

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Guest hotrodmama024
Ok, i did clean both sets of keys, and i used the right stuff to clean the resistors in the ignition. I am convinced its the wiring and the resistors. I am going to have to replace the ignition cylinder. Anyone we know that works at a dealership? Cant i have someone change the cylinder then take it in to get keys made, or is just easier to get it all done at the dealer?
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If anyone else ever has this problem at least in a GM LS based vehicle, HP Tuners can turn off the VATS and there is not longer a problem. I have had to do this when putting LS motors in non LS based cars.. such as a 88 Monte SS when using an Fbody computer and wiring harness.
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That was established above, thanks ;)

 

If anyone else ever has this problem at least in a GM LS based vehicle, HP Tuners can turn off the VATS and there is not longer a problem. I have had to do this when putting LS motors in non LS based cars.. such as a 88 Monte SS when using an Fbody computer and wiring harness.
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